Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner

2006 zx6r rectifier direct to battery

9.7K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  kracker6190  
#1 ·
Hello I have a 2006 zx6r and recently I have been messing with charging problems. I have swapped out the stator and rectifier but I bought them off ebay pre owned, I hope they aren’t the problem. However I am assuming they work right now, as I have already hard wired the rectifier to the harness because the previous owner had done it this way. Even after changing out my rectifier and stator my battery dies so there must be another problem. I wanted to hardwire the rectifier straight to the battery to eliminate the possibility that the harness is the problem. I am looking at the manual now and it looks like I would hook the Bk/W wire straight to negative and the Bk/Bl wire to the battery with an inline fuse between it. Is that the correct way to hard wire the rectifier to the battery? I heard the other two wires would just be left hanging around but I wanted confirmation before doing that. I also forgot to mention that my battery has been drained to the empty half a dozen times, could it possibly be that my battery is just bad now and can’t take a charge? My local autozone can’t load test a motorcycle battery. you
Image
Image

this is the connection between the stator to the rectifier which should not be a problem.
Image

this is the hardwiring from the rectifier to the harness. If you need any more info please let me know.
 
#3 ·
All three wires give how much output each?
are they all the same?

Did you likewise do the other required tests?

and why can't you test the regulator rectifier, even installed????-- the sharp needle type adaptors to your voltmeter so you can pierce the wire cover......
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scumbag
#8 ·
Could the problem be that possibly my battery is just bad?
How old is your battery? You can certainly test your battery... Just use a trickle charger (1 amp) overnight and check its voltage in the morning -- disconnect the charger and then turn on the ignition for maybe 10 seconds and then off again -- and then measure the battery and you should see 12.8 volts to indicate it is fully charged... Then you want to test the battery voltage while you are cranking the starter -- for no more than 5 seconds -- ideally you could disconnect the stick coils from the spark plugs for this test so the bike does not start (or flip the vehicle-down sensor after turning on the ignition) -- make sure the battery stays above 11 volts while the starting motor is cranking -- this is a decent load test. Finally, start your bike and rev to 4k RPM and measure the voltage across the battery -- you should see 14.2 to 15.2 volts to indicate your charging system is working. Of course, make sure all your connections are tight.
 
#9 ·
If it’s lead acid you can usually drain em dead and with recharges they are fine. If it’s lithium and you have drained them to much even if it’s relatively new they don’t recover very well. A brand new lithium drained dead usually stays dead. One of the reason I normally just run lead acids.
 
#21 ·
There is a fusible link in the battery leads that will open to stop all current flow if there is a massive fault. Your fuse should never be bigger than what that link is rated for. I’m sure Rich can get you the exact answer for fuse rating.
 
#22 ·
Okay I have tested my rectifier output and it is extremely low. I get around 11.18v output from rectifier at idle and when I rev the bike up the volts drops even lower into the high 10’s. Since this is the case and my stator was giving out acceptable numbers I am going to go ahead and order a new rectifier to put in. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
#24 ·
Oh no I haven’t that totally slipped my mind. I would just do resistance check at the rectifier output wires to the harness? or where should I do resistance checking if you don’t mind me asking. I did do resistance checks at the stator output wires.
 
#25 ·
There’s a table in the shop manual that tells you what measurements to make. It’s important to do those steps in the right direction, because the readings evaluate whether the rectifier is going to work properly. Where red and black are placed, and what scale the meter is set to matter.
 
#26 ·
I’d forget this whole “direct to battery” bullshit

fix what’s wrong. It’s moronic to do anything else

there rivers. I said it for you harness on these bikes are cheap and easy to install compared to you ghost riding it through traffic

doubtful that’s even the issue where you would need all new wiring
 
#28 ·
Then ignore this thread. there is no “purpose” of bypassing factory wiring to charge your battery. Least not a good one. The factory wiring is extremely simple and very effective
If your bike isn’t charging then test the 3 main functions and replace what’s bad. If it’s the wiring. Replace that.
 
#29 ·
I wired my rectifier to my battery to figure out my problem. My rectifier and stator both tested good. I had a brand new battery but my battery would still die. Sometimes i could rife for 5 mins and sometimes I could ride for a hr or 2 before my battery would go dead. I knew it was a wiring problem. My flywheel/ alternator had good magnetization. So I basically had it narrowed down to a wiring issue. Something grounding out. I spent all day with a multimeter checking wires. So I said screw it and wired my rectifier to my battery and it would charge. So that let me know that I def had a wire issue. So after a day or 2 of scratching my head and tracing wires I couldn't find out where the problem was. Something told me to hard wire the rectifier to the harnes but figure out what wire was the ground wire and jump a wire from. My ground on my rectifier to my battery. BOOM! That fixed my problem. So I'm guessing somewhere on my bike I'm missing a ground or something. But I've went through both manuals and so called myself going through all the wires. Can't find out what missing. But that's the reason I wired my rectifier to the battery. Call me dumb and that a stupid idea but it led to me fixing my bike to where I csn ride. Its a 05 636c with 17 thousand miles on it I'm the second owner never been laid down but one time at 5 mph. I love the bike that's the only major problem I've had out the bike.