Lower, if you want your toes to hit the lever earlier.

 

I want it so I move my foot less in order to upshift

 

Lower the lever, so that it is right at the tip of your boot when you want to shift, that way you don't have to twist your ankle as much, or switch to GP shift.

 

How do you switch to gp style

 

http://zx6r.com/guides/56942-05-06-gp-shift-conversion-diy.html


I think its the same thing for almost any year. If not very similar.

 

Which way are you having to move your foot to get to the shifter?

Do you have to dip your toe to get under it? Do you have to pick your foot up off the peg to get high enough to shift?

That's what determines which way you need to adjust the shifter.... It's a very simple tweak; loosen the set nuts, and twist it each way until you find what you think is best.

Either way, the amount of travel the tip of the lever goes through is not going to change. All you can do is set where that range of motion has to occur. The shift from 1-2 is a greater distance than 2-3, 3-4, etc., because you are 'spanning' the extra space required for stopping the shift sequence in neutral.

Many motorcycles have a 'positive neutral finder'.... it is frequently more noticeable (and aggravating) if your clutch is not adjusted properly.

I'd also suggest you lubricate all the pivot points in your shift linkage. Making sure the lever can travel as freely as it is supposed to makes quite a bit of difference in shift quality.

 

My bike has an automatic transmission. Its the best!

 

When I shift I kinda need to move my foot and dip it down under the shifter. That's with steel toe boots too lol. Just ordered some riding shoes so I think I'll try lowering it a little.

 

You do understand that all this will do is lower the point of engagement?

Unless there is something wrong with your shift linkage, nothing is going to shorten the distance you have to move your foot to change gears.

 

This is not accurate because Math...

Wood craft shift levers have an adjustment on the toe piece. It offers six positions which change the distance of the throw of the shift lever.

Unless I failed at math (always possible someone should check it)

Edit: found one math fail it should have been 2theta/360 in the away I drew it. Oh, and it should be +delta r since my condition is delta r is negative.

Ey3

 

The distance of throw required to change gears can not be adjusted. Only the starting point of the shifter tip can be adjusted. You can try different aftermarket rearsets. Some of them have a different ratio built into the shift lever which will shorten the distance of throw.

What you need to change is the distance between the center of the pivot of the shift lever to the center of the point where the clevis of the shift rod attaches to it. The distance between points a and b on the image.

 

Just curious, what year is your bike and how many miles on it?

 

07 zx6r. 6300 miles

 

While moving the tip of the lever will accomplish shortening or lengthening the throw required to change gears, it is not the ideal way to do it. That adjustment on Woodcraft rearsets is to accommodate different sized feet. You can move the tip closer but it will become more and more difficult for you to get your foot in a comfortable position and still be able to operate the controls. Moving the clevis attachment point is the preferred way to adjust shift lever throw. Granted, it's not normally adjustable but different rearset manufactures use different ratios and almost all of them are a shorter throw than stock. You can also accomplish the same thing by changing the length of the arm attached to the gear selector shaft at the engine. Sometimes you can source longer or shorter arms off different models and year bikes.

 

According to the instructions from woodcraft:
3) If you are using the OEM pedal, please skip to step 4. If you purchased a CFM shift pedal with your rearsets, remove the pedal assembly from the package. Assemble the CFM shift pedal using a Threadlocking compound on all bolts except the tip, this will be done in step 4. Bolt the hiem joint to the pedal (the lower hole makes the shifter work with less pedal travel, the upper hole makes for a longer throw – similar to stock).

Just saying.

Ey3

 

It is my understanding that the woodcraft lever can be swapped for the oem.

Which would resolve op's question for ~70$.

Thought you were saying no way to do it at all. Sorry.

Ey3

 

Get proper boots.
That will do a lot, your feet probably moves 5mm inside the shoe that you have now, before the shoe moves the shifter. This makes it feel like you have to move your foot a yard to get it to shift. When you have your boots (with a good fit, there is no difference if its sidi, a-stars or dainese and cost you 1000$, good fit is all), set the shifter up so when you slide your foot forward to shift, the top of your toes hits the shifter a little bit, but still slides under, it shouldnt be a problem for you to get your foot under. Then learn to shift without using the clutch.

 

Think that's exactly what I'm going to do.

 

I'll just leave it alone till next riding season and see how it feels with my new riding boots and shifting without th clutch

 

My main concerns with shifting without the clutch are two things.

1. I read on one of the threads on here. Forgot who said it but someone said you shouldn't pre load the shifter when shifting without thr clutch. It wears out the shift rod and dog teeth faster, but literally every other person and video I've seen all say to pre load the shifter.

2. The second thing is I've heard from a few people you should only do clutchless shifting from 2nd-6th gear. Going from 1st-2nd without the clutch I guess is risky?

 

1. I do not have a good technical answer for you, but no. I know 2 bikes that were on a driving school, both are about 15 years old and have done over 100000 km/60000 miles. I've been teaching there, and we teach to shift without clutch with a small amount of preload. None of those bikes have or have had any problems with the gearbox.

2. going from first to second without clutch is harder, begin with the other gears and then try it.

 

Can someone please just post a video on how to adjust your shifter? I have a 2025 Zx-6r, just got some alpine stars tech 3s and I can’t get my foot up under that shit without just manhandling it and shoving it up under there every time. Then I have to yank my foot out if I want to downshift. It’s really pissing me off and It’s honestly not safe.

 

The rod between the transmission case, and the foot control can be adjusted for length. You have to loosen both lock nuts to do so. The threads are opposite at each end. One goes the typical way to loosen the other does not.

once you figure that out and make a visible gap between the lock nuts and the shaft, rotate the shaft between them. One direction will elevate the shifter tip and make the opening for your boot bigger. It’s a 50-50 shot, if the gap gets smaller twist it the other way. 👊

you should adjust every control to fit you personally. That’s why they are adjustable in the first place. That should be checked every time you change protective gear.