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2024 ZX6R Break in

10K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  duece71  
#1 ·
Hi there i've purchased a new 2024 ZX6R and will be receiving it shortly. I've seen a few posts on this but just wanna make sure I get everything right.

Is the right plan for break-in to for the first 100-150 miles just roll on from 4000 rpm to say like 8000 and just do that for each gear (maybe not 5th or 6th not trying to go to jail) and then let the bike cool down every like hour or so (heat cycles?) Should I be going higher RPM than that or lower? I've just read that if you baby it the max hp will be lower but I don't to redline it and risk hurting the engine. I'm not trying to break it in so its a record-breaking hp rating I just want something that is pretty decent so I'm not looking for any risky strategies are anything.

Also the first service will be at 600 miles so should I do an oil change at say 300? and do I need to do a filter change as well at that time?

Any recommendations are appreciated!

Thank you
 
#2 ·
I take my bikes with zero miles or I don’t take them Then i do a few heat cycles. Then ride it decently hard for 50-60 miles. Change the oil and filter with conventional kawi 10/40. Keep riding normal for 300 miles. Dump the dyno oil again and use simi synthetic. Then keep riding hard and normal till 600 change to full synthetic and start my normal service after that. If you get a bike with a few Miles already on it then doesn’t matter what you do. It’s already ready to ride

these engines are 90% broken in before they leave Japan



I wouldn’t do any mods till you hit the 1k Mile mark. If there is a problem from the build it will show its head before then. After the 1k mod whatever and keep up with service.

The most important thing in my opinion is dumping that first oil asap. It’s full of left over shit from the build. Cut your first filter open and you will see

I have done more new bikes like this than I can count. Never an issue. Always good power and long lasting engines.

Just don’t ride around same speed and same rpm all day. Do some pulls. Engine brake it. Just ride it And Hit the redline but don’t rev bomb it like a moron.
 
#6 ·
I take my bikes with zero miles or I don’t take them Then i do a few heat cycles. Then ride it decently hard for 50-60 miles. Change the oil and filter with conventional kawi 10/40. Keep riding normal for 300 miles. Dump the dyno oil again and use simi synthetic. Then keep riding hard and normal till 600 change to full synthetic and start my normal service after that. If you get a bike with a few Miles already on it then doesn’t matter what you do. It’s already ready to ride these engines are 90% broken in before they leave Japan I wouldn’t do any mods till you hit the 1k Mile mark. If there is a problem from the build it will show its head before then. After the 1k mod whatever and keep up with service. The most important thing in my opinion is dumping that first oil asap. It’s full of left over shit from the build. Cut your first filter open and you will see I have done more new bikes like this than I can count. Never an issue. Always good power and long lasting engines. Just don’t ride around same speed and same rpm all day. Do some pulls. Engine brake it. Just ride it And Hit the redline but don’t rev bomb it like a moron.
Thanks for the reply, Yes it is a brand new bike with 0 miles. So it sounds like just ride it normally essentially let it go through the power range and feel out all the gears and RPM’s, and in the first 20 miles get it up to decently high RPM’s to “bed in the piston rings” or did he mean 120 miles?
 
#3 ·
You have about 20 miles to bed in the piston rings as well as they are ever going to bed in........ and this is critical to performance and oil consumption

high loads are needed to accomplish this

I change oil as soon as I am done with the "bed in the rings" route I do........, Then I ride it like I normally ride it......... I change oil a second time around 500 miles and then again around 1000-1500 and then just go to my normal service routine
I run full synthetic from the get go, Maxima pro Plus 10W40

Same routine brand new vs a freshly rebuilt engine
 
#5 ·
Welcome fellow Kiwi. My bike was a demo bike so it was ragged to shit and back from 0 km's. Over 70,000km right now and performs like a champ.
 
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#7 ·
No he meant 20. No doubt by the time it hits 20 Miles give or take those rings are as bedded as they will ever be. And like he said. HIGH LOADS. various rpm. High load engine braking prob helps more than anything

with the tolerance and coatings engines have these days there arguably seated for the most part when kawi does the test revline at the end of production

I’m just in the habit of doing a few heat cycles mostly from rebuilds just to make sure all the gaskets seat and no leaks or any issues. Then I take em out and run the dog piss out of them and then dump that oil asap. The reason I use Dino kawi oil for the first change is because it’s cheap and it’s decent oil. My 300 mile change is overkill but again. It’s cheap. I’d say following rivers change schedule you be butter.
 
#9 ·
Like stayed. After the rings are bedded in. Sooner the better. You just want to get any left over build material out of there. If you still want to follow the manufacturer stuff. Bed in the rings. Change the oil 30-50 Miles whatever. Don’t tell anyone you did it. Take it back to the dealership for your “first 600mile” service. That’s the advice I give people when we sell a new one. That way you know it’s done right and the documentation of your first change with the dealer is done. If you don’t like there oil or can’t get them to use good oil for whatever reason. Bring it home. Dump it and add the good shit after the first service . Least it’s documented if there is a problem. That’s why I said home off your mods till after that. 99% of catastrophic failure will happen early and you want have the “but you modded” it bs to deal with. If you have a good dealer working for you it usually doesn’t matter. But the manufacturers are assholes when it comes to denying warranty work. So the easier you make it on the dealer the more likely you are to get shit replaced. And with that said it’s super super rare for problems on these that’s not induced by some moron doing something stupid
 
#15 ·
The “20 miles” is that an absolute or can I go up to 40-50 miles? The route I will take home from the dealership is exactly 36 miles. I mapped it out on google maps, there are a few straight roads included away from large population areas to do the “pulls” and engine brakes. I live in a fairly large city in Central Ohio and am avoiding the large capacity highways. Great info. Thank you.