Pull apart the connector at the immobilizer, so you can scrape any corrosion off the pins.

 

The bike didnt come with an immobilizer when i bought it.. so im surprised that im having this issue.

i forgot to mention, when i turn on the key i don't hear any prime noise like it used... no sound comes from turning the key on.

 

I've been chasing electrical gremlins with my 09, thinking I have them sorted for the moment..... Every connector can compromise the flow of electricity due to the build up of corrosion on the contacts. When you open and close the connection, it scrapes off the surface clean or rust.

Best to put an oxygen barrier in there. Dielectric grease will limit growth of corrosion when it coats the pin surfaces.

 

here is a quick Video for review

 

It says right there!!!

Bikes not equipped with it, have different top tripple and key switch.

Like RJ2112 said, do you use the same key as before?
Have you ever used the red one?

 

The Red key has a circuit built into it that the ECU has to recognize. They are a matched set.

If your bike had an immobilizer at one time, it had a stored code in the ECU for the proper matching red key. If the bike ran without the immobilizer with your present key, it should run now, without the immobilizer.

If you were unfortunate enough to have been given a key that does not match what is stored in the ECU, I expect you will have to have Kawasaki set the code in the ECU to match your key.

Can you identify what market your ECU is from by the PN? Does that match the VIN number on the frame and engine?

 

The Red key has a circuit built into it that the ECU has to recognize. They are a matched set.

If your bike had an immobilizer at one time, it had a stored code in the ECU for the proper matching red key. If the bike ran without the immobilizer with your present key, it should run now, without the immobilizer.

If you were unfortunate enough to have been given a key that does not match what is stored in the ECU, I expect you will have to have Kawasaki set the code in the ECU to match your key.

Can you identify what market your ECU is from by the PN? Does that match the VIN number on the frame and engine?

bought this bike from Kawa dealer, why will they give me an incorrect Key set.. and if so how do i diagnose if i have the correct Red Key(is the something i have to do on the bike to check as such) and reset the Error code 35

and why does this happen after i had a new battery installed..all this time the bike has been running when i would
jump start with the old battery

what do i need to check before i start calling the dealer.. the bike was running till i did the CCT adjust, could this be what started the problem..

how do i identify the ICU to the VIN... what is PN?
however will check to see if numbers on the ICU match and with the VIN, but why do i have to do this verification?, after being in possession of the bike for over 4 years

If the is any short in the wiring harness what do i have to check and is the any specific switches to check for resistance or any continuity, is there any specific fuses i have to check (i strongly suspect electrical issue but i don't know were to start)

in short what are common places to check with regards to the Error Code 35

please bare with me thru this frustrations and lame questions

 

Right side fairing above indicator is a rubber mounted square box this is the amplifier have you checked the connections from this are they corroded.
Also check the main connection from ignition switch under the air box white connector.
Mine played up after doing my valves eventually changed connection for a water proof one.

 

bro now that you mentioned this, yes i did remove the right side faring when i was adjusting the CCT.. and i dont think i did connect the switches back, in my mind i thought this was for the turn signals.. infact im dead sure i didnt reconnect the switch.. or do i need to reconnect something back on the right side faring?

will check in the morning... Thanks for the heads up Phill :BigGrin:BigGrin:BigGrin:BigGrin

 

The immobiliser amplifier is fitted to right side fairing if you didn't reconnect there's your problem I think it's about 3"x2" from memory rubber mounted.

 

yes i think i know what you are talking about coz i did disconnect switches on the the right side fairing,
will check it in the morning

thanks bro... Will update :cheers

 

Hopefully thats your problem. Let us know what happens.

 

Update:
Reconnectedallswitches(amplifier).finally got the bike running. Had It running for a while but noticed the bike sounds like carburetted bike... And there is white smoke coming off the exhaust when I gave it some gas..

Switched it off after the fan ran, then tried to run it for the second time, it won't start anymore...


What I have done so far on the bike:
New oil(full synthetic) and oil filter got this done a month ago

New battery
CCT adjusted..

 

White smoke is steam, from the exhaust warming up and evaporating moisture from inside the muffler. If that stopped within a few minutes, normal. More noticeable if the catalytic converter is removed.

Now that it started at least once, so you still have the code?

 

Got the bike running again..

But the bike jus doesn't sound like it's got power it takes a bit of time to peak when I'm giving it gas.. and this white smoke coming off the exhaust it's jus not normal..

It's like there's not enough compression when I'm on the gas. Like I said more like a carburetted bike.. instead of a fuel injection bike... Big difference in sound

Excuse my French hope this all makes sense..

 

I will like to thank all that have help in the discussion on this problem I was having on the bike...

Will update on the progress, hopefully I get all issues resolved..

 

If the smoking continues after the bike has reached normal operating temperature, there is a problem. White smoke is typically steam, which has to come from coolant.

Is this coming out of the tail pipe, or is it coming off the headers, or somewhere else under the bike?

Does this bike have after market fuel management? PC III?

Take that off, and see what it runs like. All you need to know is whether it improves.

 

smoke is coming of from the tail pipe

the bike has dyno jet PCIII (how to do i disconnect without having another issues, or is it jus plug and play thereafter?

 

R u sure u didnt mess up the timing when u adjusted the CCT?

 

i doubt coz this started before i did the oil change and the cct, i knew the oil change was long over due..
guess the bike finaly gave in.. im kicking myself for not attending to it sooner

thought the oil change will do the trick, who was fooling LOL