Can't really answer your questionive got a 2002 I'm rebuilding at the minute into a track day bike but the engine is back in and I'm also wondering about all this 'extra crap' for the air intake

 

HERE

 

From what I understand, the tube from the intake to the float bowls is needed

 

Reading all of your post it looks like your mixing the EVAP & Ram Air systems thinking their one of the same, There not.
You need the Ram Air but you can junk the EVAP system by carrying out a Evap Delete.

 

Hi KevA,

sorry to OP to cut in here but just wondering about what you’ve said here.
So on my old 1190R I did a ‘canister-ectomy’ for the charcoal canister and other emissions crap. Do the really old bikes (mines 2002) have anything I can junk whilst rebuilding it?

 

I assume your 2002 is a ZX636 A1P ?
You can remove all the EVAP Crap, I'll put together some images in a bit and post them to this #7

So you can remove everything in the first Image, Cap where the Blue Circled is removed, Cap the underside of the Air Box where Green Circle fits onto, Red Circles attach to the EVAP Plates in Image 2 the Top one with the Black cross through it (Discard the Bottom Crossed one at the same time) this is done for both sides.
You then need to fit what they call Block Off Plates, 3rd Image, These are sourced from E-Bay and this set offers the Air Box Bung and 1 Carb inlet bung, Link HERE

Ask if your not sure

 

I assume your 2002 is a ZX636 A1P ? YEP

So you can remove everything in the first Image, Cap where the Blue Circled is removed, Cap the underside of the Air Box where Green Circle fits onto, Red Circles attach to the EVAP Plates in Image 2 the Top one with the Black cross through it (Discard the Bottom Crossed one at the same time)

Hi KevA,

Wow, brilliant description and pictures. Much appreciated! I've ordered the block-off plates so they will be down for the weekend I hope. I have done the same job to a few bikes I've had in the past but this is the first (proper) bike with carbs I've owned not counting my old XR125.

Thanks again and I'll give you a shout if I have questions if that's alright?

And a question to you @riverszzr . The picture you've attached there with all the carbs in a vacuum state. That is only possible or stable because of the aluminium valve you mention?

I've just put in a new fuel pump and filter and fuel hoses etc. and got her started without the airbox and other .. stuff. keen to get her purring properly but she seems okay at the minute. Might take a video and post it in a thread on my build progress, let me know what you think but probably difficult to tell on sound alone.. I'll get a carb balancer although I've no idea what I'm doing haha oh well only one way to learn!

 

Right, so ignoring the MASSIVE thread steal that's going on here
The lower half of the rubbish can go, (which is a bit annoying in that the upper half clips onto the lower half.) but the upper lot that connects to the TOP of the airbox IS balancing the carbs to the pressure in the air box to make the venturi work correctly?

Not that any of us actually know how any of it works at all So I need to build a hose out of a right angle and a straight bit and some joining bits which is annoying, but oh well.

 

you can remove the pair valve and accompanying hoses as stated......

the ram air itself and the idiotically stupid aluminum body valve (above the rag in the picture) you need to keep unless you are going to reinvent the wheel and try and convert to the better system used on the J models........

the carb bowls absolutely need to be pressurized to work and that is what pressurizes them from the pressurized air box

 

View attachment 112707
you can remove the pair valve (what is this?) and accompanying hoses as stated......

the ram air itself and the idiotically stupid aluminum body valve (above the rag in the picture) (above the rag or the thing with the rag stuffed into it?) you need to keep unless you are going to reinvent the wheel and try and convert to the better system used on the J models........

the carb bowls absolutely need to be pressurized to work and that is what pressurizes them from the pressurized air box

@riverszzr

thanks for your info and picture here.
I’ve added some questions to your response in green.
Am I correct in saying that I need to keep the top half of the below?

If so.. WTF.. I’ve fit the block off plates. Which is were those two ‘arms’ plugged into on the top of the cam cover. Then the smaller pipe went the the top of the two middle carbs that 1&4 have a small pipe of same diameter but they are already blocked off. So that is odd.. if it’s needed?
Just a bit confused because the bottom part connects to a pipe that comes out from the bottom/side of the air box..

Can’t test it atm, just waiting for brake fluid bottle and then I can do a shakedown.

I don’t have the other aluminium thing you made reference too in your reply and the first guy said I could get rid of everything in the first pic..

Just a bit confused to be honest.

Hope someone can help clear things up a bit for me

 

I really love fuel injection ;p

 

I managed to snag an OG tube and spare valve for a decent price, so hopefully my bowls will be correctly pressured in the future. What's the value actually for why not just connect the airbox to the carbs? is it so that the over pressure can ONLY happen above certain vacuum levels?

 

Seems like the newer bikes use a kind of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitot_tube arrangement.

 

Just in an effort to further explain with pictures. The smaller diameter pipe on the top of the now removed.. plastic tree thing. Went to a T piece that split to the top of throttle bodies 2&3.

1 & 4 were not joined to the same T piece as they were already blocked as below.

Now what I am curious about is the below.

This little splitter collects air from the front of the bike and brings it down a pipe thusly >

So down here and it flows the the top of the carbs. down a common rail to each one. Here is each side of the pipe. First from the right hand side looking down to the end and then from the left side of the bike looking at the end of the pipe.

So that pipe is bringing air.. is that the 'Ram air' system? Can't imagine it rams much air. although perhaps that isn't the point. Perhaps flowing just some air at a different pressure is exactly what it does?

Hope that makes sense. If not, please let me know what pictures I could take to further explain my confusion.

Note, the bike starts fine and drives in first gear okay at the moment. No front brakes yet so a faster shakedown will have to wait.

 

Just in an effort to further explain with pictures. The smaller diameter pipe on the top of the now removed.. plastic tree thing. Went to a T piece that split to the top of throttle bodies 2&3.

1 & 4 were not joined to the same T piece as they were already blocked as below.

View attachment 112841
View attachment 112840







Now what I am curious about is the below.

View attachment 112843

This little splitter collects air from the front of the bike and brings it down a pipe thusly >

View attachment 112845

So down here and it flows the the top of the carbs. down a common rail to each one. Here is each side of the pipe. First from the right hand side looking down to the end and then from the left side of the bike looking at the end of the pipe.
View attachment 112844
View attachment 112842

So that pipe is bringing air.. is that the 'Ram air' system? Can't imagine it rams much air. although perhaps that isn't the point. Perhaps flowing just some air at a different pressure is exactly what it does?

Hope that makes sense. If not, please let me know what pictures I could take to further explain my confusion.

Note, the bike starts fine and drives in first gear okay at the moment. No front brakes yet so a faster shakedown will have to wait.

That there is the system that pressurizes the float bowls.......... make sure that plastic pipe that is the junction to the 4 individual carbs is nont cracked (I have seen dozens of them cracked over the years)


from your post #17..........

yes that can be removed, just make sure the vacuumn line is plugged and the air box hole is also plugged

 

Throttle cables route from the handle to the small diameter hole in the frame on the CLUTCH side, then once inside the frame they route to the right to the fitting on the carb. When I install the air box, I usually push the throttle cables back and forth so they settle into position.

With respect all your airbox/carb/block-off plate questions, I have done it all. I have the block-off plates with the capped-off airbox, and deleted the solenoid (called the "airbox mod"). This coming weekend I'll take some detailed pictures so you can verify what you have; I've run my setup for a few years with zero issues.

 

Clutch side as in the lever not the actual clutch plates side? I've got them sat pretty nicely atm but they are really old and I did see new ones on Wemoto for like £40. I will take mine back off and oil them and see if that makes me feel better. They feel okay.. just ahhh she is going to be doing trackdays and peace of mind and all that.

Thanks man pictures are always super helpful, keen to learn where this solenoid is and what it does for the airbox or Kleen-air thing.

That link to the service manuals that @mmattockx sent is great, amazing detail in the diagrams so it would be great to delete/remove some weight from the wiring harness!

 

Wow the thread hijack was so hard I forgot who the OP was..

 

To actually answer the thread's title question..

RAM Air is a means of increasing static pressure inside your airbox via forward facing air ducts, allowing air to speed into the airbox with little restriction. As your vehicle speeds up, more air from outside is forced into the airbox via the ducts (the ducts contain dynamic air pressure as the air moves through them), increasing the airbox's static air pressure when the air is essentially compressed inside of it prior to being sequenced into the carb and then the cylinder with atomized fuel as the intake valve opens.

Essentially, your ram air acts as a forced induction system, increasing engine power and efficiency as speed increases. The stock EVAP system takes this pressure when off-throttle and dumps it into the exhaust via the smog plates, helping burn off excess hydrocarbons and lessoning the impact on the "eNvIoRmEnT" (marginally). Think of the stock EVAP system as a turbo "waste gate". Without it (when installing smog block-off plates), the static pressure in the airbox remains a function of forward road speed (dynamic pressure) and once you crack open the throttle again, there is no lag (think turbo boost lag).

Questions?

 

The hijack is so profound I've given up on this thread but I'm glad it could help someone