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Are you saying K&N cause cancer? :)

(Sorry to hear about that.)
I wouldn’t be surprised lol. They are honestly that bad


Like photo said tho. Years ago when they came out I installed them on a couple vehicles and never noticed any issues. So makes since they once was a better company . But like him seeing the dirt by pass them on a motorcycle was when I was like. Nope.
 
I’ve heard that fram filters also aren’t good anymore, have been cheapened and/or have quality issues. I have not used them (on 2 or 4 wheels) for several years now. Now K&N is on the no-go list.
 
I have also heard and seen that online about fram. I personally never used them on anything. Maybe a car or truck in the past and don’t remember. So can’t really say.

I guess the point is you just never hear of oem jap bike filters failing so really no use in not using them. Especially being basically same prices. And for air filters usually cheaper

Off-road tho 100% twin air. Ktm/husky comes with twin air. And I have never seen a failure that wasn’t dumbass induced. . But if I had to buy or actually pay for a off-road filter it would be the two stage uni just because there so much easier to clean and if I had to actually buy them I’d prob clean them like normal people instead of tossing them In a pile
 
As soon as I saw “hand tight” I knew we had a problem lol. Oil filters do have a torque spec! Much tighter than you can do “by hand” btw.

OEM is quality. Use it. Glad to hear the bike is okay.
 
Are you saying K&N cause cancer? :)

(Sorry to hear about that.)
No not saying K&N causes cancer.

I Had prostate cancer, caught it early and had surgery. They got it all so prognosis is great. Of course in life we never know what tomorrow may bring. Could live to 100 or a semi-truck run me over tomorrow. Try and enjoy each day with no regrets.

Wonderful to see the OP have no problems.
 
Bummer! Sounds like your oil filter came loose. Oil Drain Plug torque is 29 Nm, the oil filter torque is 17 Nm (not hand tightened) as per the 2023 factory service manual.
I only use the Hiflo Filtro oil filters, and I change oil & filter after every 2 track days. On road bikes I change the oil & filter every 3,000 miles.
 
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Discussion starter · #49 ·
Another Update:
Rear tire was replaced and I took out the bike for a ride. Everything works well except my rear brake has barely any braking force. I basically have to stand on it to do just a little braking force. I will try bleeding the rear brake to see if that solves the issue. Might have something to do when I was reinstalling the wheel.
 
Did you replace the rear brake pads which likely got oiled with your tire? My rear brake has always been anemic compared to the N400, but if yours is worse now than it used to be, I'd try new pads... Are you building pressure for sure with the pedal, or could you be reaching the end of the MC stroke? From the at-rest position of the pedal (about 3" below the footpeg, below), you should go no more than about 1" farther down before it stops...

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Discussion starter · #52 ·
Did you replace the rear brake pads which likely got oiled with your tire? My rear brake has always been anemic compared to the N400, but if yours is worse now than it used to be, I'd try new pads... Are you building pressure for sure with the pedal, or could you be reaching the end of the MC stroke? From the at-rest position of the pedal (about 3" below the footpeg, below), you should go no more than about 1" farther down before it stops...

View attachment 116392
I didn't replace the rear brake pads, when I looked at them they were completely dry. Maybe they already dried up by the time I got around to looking at them. I feel the pressure when I press down on the brake and I can see the piston pushing out.
 
I’ll try that then, any suggestions for which rear pads to get?
Ones for your bike

but like already said. Those rotors absorbs also. I have seen people clean and soak forever after getting a tiny bit of oil on the brakes and they’re just never right afterwards.
 
If he just changed the pads and the rotors were contaminated too, would it ruin the new brake pads or would it be safe to just keep changing one thing at a time until it's good?
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
If he just changed the pads and the rotors were contaminated too, would it ruin the new brake pads or would it be safe to just keep changing one thing at a time until it's good?
From what I have been reading, you need to do both at the same time. If not the rotors can contaminate the pads and vice versa.
 
Another Update:
Rear tire was replaced and I took out the bike for a ride. Everything works well except my rear brake has barely any braking force. I basically have to stand on it to do just a little braking force. I will try bleeding the rear brake to see if that solves the issue. Might have something to do when I was reinstalling the wheel.
How did you clean the brake pads and rotor????

It may well take new pads and maybe even a couple sets of them---heat cycling that rotor will bring oil to surface repeatedly

but then again- rear brakes are for whiners....90% of the stopping power is up front anyways- we don't need no stinking rear brakes :rolleyes:
 
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I must have missed the post where the OP found out his oil filter was loose?????????

Is that what caused all this, his oil filter came loose.............

LOfuckingL
 
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