If you have a voltmeter, measure the battery voltage before and while you are trying to start it. Before you try and start it, 12.8 volts indicates the battery is fully charged. While you are trying to start it (starter button pressed), the voltage should remain above 11 volts or so. Are your battery cables tight? Did anything change (or did you change anything? ) leading up to this condition? Just to rule out the obvious, be sure your start/stop switch is in the start position and the bike is in neutral, preferably with the sidestand up, when you try and start it.

 

I brought the battery to AutoZone to be tested since I don't have a multimeter and I tried charging it before I went there. The only thing I've done recently is replace the stator cover gasket because I keeps leaking. And yes in neutral kick stand up kill switch on doesn't start doesn't work in gear either.

 

I believe many auto parts stores will loan tools -- maybe you can borrow a multimeter that way? Loaner Tool Program | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

Given that you messed with the stator, you probably (once you get the bike running) want to test the charging system as well -- at 4k RPM you should see 14.4 to 14.8 volts on the battery -- that tells you your charging system is working properly.

(If you hurt the stator somehow, you may no longer be charging, resulting in a dead battery over time, which would certainly give the "click" behavior... Also, be sure your battery terminals are tight -- a loose battery terminal will masquerade like a dead battery, also giving "click" behavior -- you can get enough current to light the dash, but not enough to spin the starter motor -- usually you get click-click-click-click, but sometimes just click.)

Do you see the dash lights dim at all when you try to start?

 

More than likely a toasted battery. Once started, the charging system can keep it running but the battery probably isn't holding charge anymore.

Shouldn't be a clutch or tip-over sensor as you wouldn't be able to bump start the bike if those were bad.

 

If the battery is 5+ years old, or was left completely discharged for some time, was allowed to freeze, is low on electrolyte…. With load testing the battery it’s difficult to think anything else is wrong.

A multimeter can be purchased for less than $20 for a cheap one that can do what you need.

 

And the newer the manufacture date on the battery the more junk it is. I have a 2001 Honda Forman factory lead acid battery. we only use it for an ems quad during the races. So on sept it gets stuck In a barn. And in March I go to get it. Battery flat dead. I throw my boost box on it. By the time I drive it down to the track battery is charged. Starts every week during race season lol. Every year I say. “Going to replace that battery”. Every year it keeps working.

my everyday work quad is a 19 king quad. I can’t count the battery replacement it’s had lol. And if lithium. Forget it. They get 10% or less. Junk. Will never charge and be right


My bet here is a bad battery. Charging system prob fine since like stated it runs after being bump started.

starter problems are extremely rare on these to just go out. I’m sure I have replaced a thousand batteries per 1 starter lol.

 

That is EXACTLY what a low battery sounds like...it will most likely meter below 12.3 volts. Fully charged is around 12.8V...12.3 V is about the voltage my bike might turn over 1 last time...at 12.3V if it turns over but does not start...the next time I press the start button...it will just click click.

 

Sounds like you need a new battery too