A true 140 is nothing to sneeze at… you could probably squeeze out a little more with an ECU flash; it all gets to be bench racing beyond that point.

 

I do have an ECU flash though:/ I guess I’m more bothered at the fact that my homies 23 is stock and is able to do 15+mph faster than mine when I’ve done way more to my bike than he has his. Idk man maybe I’m just overthinking it😆 either way I’m loving the bike so far

 

What RPMs were you at when doing 141 on the GPS? You have stock gearing which is (I think) 15T on the front, so you rev faster for less speed.

If you fall off the power curve, you might not go faster -- it depends on the rate you lose power vs. the rate that wind resistance increases the need for it, which is (I think) cubic in nature.

If everything else is stock, I think you might be at 13,500 RPM at 141 mph?

Up to 2018, I believe they ran 16T up front, so could pull more speed with lower revs, and possibly stay on the rising side of the power curve -- assuming you have power to spare, of course.

Your buddy should have the same gearing you do, unless he changed his like I changed mine.

(I switched my 2022 from 15T to 16T: 2022 experience going from 15T to 16T front sprocket... | Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum (zx6r.com) )

I believe 2024 had some engine/tuning changes to meet Euro 5 -- you might be experiencing that -- 2019-2023 were not sold in Europe I believe, because of excessive emissions.

At least in this video, the 2019 bike is falling off the curve from 13,500 on up to redline:

 

Thank you for the reply! according to one of my videos, when the 141 was indicated on GPS I was at the rev limiter at 14.5k so I really was giving it all of the beans. (ECU flash allows me to go to 14.5 instead of just 14)

 

BTW, I thought the stock rev limiter should be higher than 14k, but I have never hit it... How high did your friend go?

 

Not currently near the bike so I can’t get that info atm but will post back if i remember! Out of curiosity, if my gearing is the same as the 23 zx which I believe it is then why wouldn’t I be hitting the same speeds as him especially with the flash and full ehxaust? And yeah the clutch play feels good! it was just at the dealer for 600mi service a few weeks ago and they adjusted all of that properly, and the rear tire size is 180/55 ZR17

 

I believe 2021(?)-2023 was not sold in Europe because of Euro 5 emissions requirements...

They did something different for 2024, to allow it to sell again in Europe, so it might be down on power or revs -- just a complete guess...

 

And it will only get lower as that K&N sucks dirt through the engine


it’s hate K&N month.

 

And it will only get lower as that K&N sucks dirt through the engine


it’s hate K&N month.

Ha ha ha

 

And do you have some measurements to show all your mods actually improved power, rather than lessened it? A dyno run before and after maybe? Who flashed the ECU, and with what input data?

 

2WDW did the flash on the ECU, I don’t personally have any of the info on the tune other than what is on there website. If im not mistaken the bike stock was pushing somewhere around 112HP and with the flash and exhaust it got it up to 122.

 

Just did some quick reading and the rev limit was dropped by about 1k on some or all 2024 bikes. Shoulda got your ecu flashed to set the rev limit at 16k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Rich has a hell of a point. I have seen many power commanders make bikes show lower numbers on the dyno. There canned tunes are junk. And anyone who tunes mail in ecu”s will tell you there is no one size fits all tune. When Moore did my two new gens. Same exact mods. We dyno the first one. The black one I’d shown on here got to 123. We loaded the same tune on my other one because we ran out of time. When I took it back to do the actual dyno tune was able to get 4 more hp out of it

if and when tuners are honest they will tell you the mail in tune might be 80-90% as good as the actual dyno tune. And I guess statistically you may luck up and get 100%. But it’s a gamble and the odds are against you.


but the majority of your problem could simply be a crappy break in paired with a bad tune. And it really takes a stretch to climb into the 150”s with stock gearing anyways. So ya may just not be getting there. Hard to tell.

How was this bike broken in?

 

Also you have the same gear ratio as your buddy. How much weight difference? Body position. Lots of things come into play at top end.

you two could swap bikes. I have rode every year that I can think of. I can’t tell a difference in a bone stock 19-23 and the new 24”s. I just took one out a few days ago. Feels like a stock zx6. I dint pay attention to the actual top end speed but I have this one spot I’m running wide open for about 4 miles. That’s usually the spot I can tell a turd from a good break in

Did you run the dog shit out of it the first 30-50 miles? How many miles before you did your mods?

 

Not sure our exact weights but I do know that he is heavier than me.. and I actually babied this bike until it hit 600mi so it had a good break in period. I also didn’t add any of these mods until I hit the 600 mile period

 

Lol. Welp. Looks like one more bike added to the thousands that prove without a shadow of a doubt babying a bike the first 50 miles robs the power. You may have the worse case I have heard of tho. And it’s done now. Learn to live with it. Or re ring and seat your pistons.

And let me guess. Never changed the oil once till ya hit 600 miles?

 

😆😆 I guess I should rephrase that, I definitely didn’t keep it under the 4k RPM like Kawasaki suggested for break in period. That was too difficult, but I definitely wasn’t bouncing it off of the rev limiter all the time either. idk I guess I just trusted the manual considering these people are the engineers of the bike and probably know best, I doubt the break in period would affect anything, if it did why would it be in the manual?

 

Well at this point it’s not an opinion on the best break in procedure for these. It’s not like your bikes junk. Just robbed some power

And as far as the manual. LAWYERS and LIABILITY. They can’t say. “Buy the bike give it 3 heat cycles then pull out and run the monkey balls off of it”. Or the first kid to die doing that their parents would own Kawasaki. They also have to make that manual relative for a 70 year old experienced seasoned rider and a irresponsible 16 year old who has never rode anything bigger than a crf150

I have seen rode and dyno to many to not know soft break ins kill power. I personally have two new gens right now. Kid bought one and Never took it out of power mode one. Traded it back in for a smaller bike at 250 miles. So I just took it to build a new stunt bike . And I took a one new. Did a few heat cycles. And literally bounced that fucker off the rev limiter doing a rolling burnout for a couple miles up the interstate and it’s the strongest one I have ever had. From zero to 50miles it was never under 10k . They’re like two different bikes. And unfortunately my sons got the fast one lol. It blows me away how much faster the black one is

And I’m a big believer in getting that original oil out as fast as you can. For sure by 100 miles I’m draining that shit and inspecting the filter. And I always find a dirty filter with left over manufacturing debris. The manufacturers even know that’s the best way. But again. They have to cater to dumb cheap people and less people would buy a bike if they was told that.

 

Well at this point it’s not an opinion on the best break in procedure for these. It’s not like your bikes junk. Just robbed some power

And as far as the manual. LAWYERS and LIABILITY. They can’t say. “Buy the bike give it 3 heat cycles then pull out and run the monkey balls off of it”. Or the first kid to die doing that their parents would own Kawasaki. They also have to make that manual relative for a 70 year old experienced seasoned rider and a irresponsible 16 year old who has never rode anything bigger than a crf150

I have seen rode and dyno to many to not know soft break ins kill power. I personally have two new gens right now. Kid bought one and Never took it out of power mode one. Traded it back in for a smaller bike at 250 miles. So I just took it to build a new stunt bike . And I took a one new. Did a few heat cycles. And literally bounced that fucker off the rev limiter doing a rolling burnout for a couple miles up the interstate and it’s the strongest one I have ever had. From zero to 50miles it was never under 10k . They’re like two different bikes. And unfortunately my sons got the fast one lol. It blows me away how much faster the black one is

And I’m a big believer in getting that original oil out as fast as you can. For sure by 100 miles I’m draining that shit and inspecting the filter. And I always find a dirty filter with left over manufacturing debris. The manufacturers even know that’s the best way. But again. They have to cater to dumb cheap people and less people would buy a bike if they was told that.

Fair enough, thanks for the response. Honestly the only reason I waited until 600mi service was 1. Because manual told me too. And 2, I figured it would be good for the warranty to show that the dealer did the first service. But come to think about it I think I may have voided warranty by adding these parts anyway so I’m kinda f*****. I’ll have to get back in touch with the tuner and see what he has to say about all of this. His tune called for around 122HP on this bike with my exhaust and flash and I’m not seeing 122HP numbers. Just kinda sucks knowing I spent all this money on a SS and it’s reaching the same speeds that my damn twin R7 was able to reach. Oh well, lesson learned I guess

 

Be happy with the ZX6R, lots more speed potential than the R7, just need to unlock it. If speed is what you want go to a ZX10R or similar. After a point speed is just numbers, balance, control and acceleration is what makes the ZX6R special.

 

I get what your saying, but I would like to know mentally that the bike can reach the speeds it should if ever wanted. whyd I spend all this money on a SS bike if it can’t hit SS numbers even with full exhaust, filter, and ECU flash. Meanwhile my homies stock bike is 15mph faster and he ain’t done shit to it. I definitely should have gotten a bigger bike but I’m kinda stuck with this one now for another 4 years atleast, like I said above, lesson learned I guess.

 

you could still change the oil and have the dealership do the first service for warranty record. No one knows or cares what oil you have when they change it lol.

But as mentioned you still have a way better bike than you had. How much time you plan to spend north of 140 anyways lol every bike is different. Gets broken in different and sees different hp numbers. I have two the exact same everything but color. 4hp difference

And there is no bouncing off the rev limiter stock bike stock gearing. Ya just hit that wall of no more.


And even with all your tunes versus bone stock the top end difference is never night and day. Aside from lifting the rev limit most your useable gains is down low. That’s why people go -1 +2. You still don’t lose any top end but you get there faster and have more power in the USABLE range

your bike is already down 1 tho so you would keep the 15 and run a 15/45. Just that change alone gives you more seat of the pants feeling than your upgrades. The filter and exhaust isn’t doing anything. Well your filter is. It’s letting in way to much dirt lol. But you know what I mean.

 

And if it’s just the mental thing you’re worried about. Just lie to yourself. People do it all the time. I have a buddy will scream till he runs out of air his 2015 gixer600 will do. And I quote. “180 just like that” and snaps his fingers lol. He has lied about that so much he honestly believes it will do it.

and everyone with a busa swears they do 220”s every time they go to the gas station.

 

My 2023 goes to around 158mph on the dash. It has a bit more in it and would have probably hit 160mph if I had another mile. I’m more concerned about police and safety so I rarely push my luck.

Maybe you were in 5th gear…

 

I also just purchased a 2024 zx6r, fully stock, only has a slip on exhaust, and i topped out at 150mph. That was in sport mode with quick shifter on.

 

Was that 150 on the speedo or on the GPS? Have you checked your speedo calibration yet?

Wouldn't it be nice if speedometers were accurate again in 2024? (At least all the bikes I have and heard of read like 5% high/optimistic, as does my tachometer.)

 

That was on my speedo, i had it pinned down for a good 2 to 3 seconds before i let off. No i havent checked my calibration yet:/

 

That was on my speedo,

Unfortunately, I expect that might mean you were going 143 or so, if yours is reading 5% high like older models... I assume you were full tuck?

I got something for you. momma got a fz06 and I took her out riding and let her follow me and I noticed this 😂😂😂. It was 29.5 a hundred miles ago

When I take my daughter out riding, if you can believe it, mine actually goes up as well -- max I have seen for 3 hours of riding (our longest trip!) was 61 mpg -- she got 81 mpg on the N400!

My keychain has no scratches yet -- safe as a baby in a mother's womb!!!

 

Lol. Geez 60? That’s crazy. I’m go take a day and just see how high I can get mine. My daughter gets her license and grom on Nov. so I need to be practicing lol.

 

Nice your daughter getting her license as well!!! I tell mine it is good if guys feel a bit intimidated around her -- so they up their game!

Most of our riding is 40 to 60 mph, which seems to be the sweet spot for mpg -- it might have been even a bit slower on that trip as we were on a stunning winding canyon road with no traffic for more than half of the way... I'm running 16T up front... I've thought about even trying 17T -- but I'd have to get rid of the metal chain guide (under the sprocket cover) altogether for that... I usually skip 2 or 3 gears between 1st and 6th... I actually checked if Kawasaki had any alternate gearing for 6R like for 10R (or one of the liter bikes I found?), but they do not...

 

16/43? You could keep the 16 and go 40? Would be the same as 17/43. Well close enough. And not have to change guards

 

I'm running a 16T front sprocket as it works better for me on track. You do lose a fair bit of chain adjustment freedom though. Going one up at the front is worth 3 at the back...
Can hold second & third longer depending on the turn.

 

It’s actually 2.389 rich likes to be precise. That’s going from 15-16. Going 15-16 it’s 2.879. The larger the diameter that you add the extra tooth to more ratio difference you gain. To get a true (3) one would need to start with a 17-47 Then go to a 18. And no one would run that combo. So we just always say “adding one tooth to the front equals 3 in the rear”.

 

How did this turn out I just got one myself and I pick it up tomorrow I was going to leave it stock till after a break in but now I’m worried about what that breakin should look like 🤣 also what integrated taillight did you put on cause all I see is 2023 models no one admits they fit 24 yet

 

How did this turn out I just got one myself and I pick it up tomorrow I was going to leave it stock till after a break in but now I’m worried about what that breakin should look like 🤣 also what integrated taillight did you put on cause all I see is 2023 models no one admits they fit 24 yet

When you pick it up. If zero miles. Start it and let it come up to temp a few times. I do 3 of them. Then take it out and run it decently hard. Dont rev and bounce off the rev limiter obviously (shouldn’t do that ever). . But run it up to 13-14 in every gear letting it engine brake a decent amount from high revs. Ideally spend your first 50 miles doing this and at various speed. Bring it home. Dump the oil and filter. Fill with the kawi brand conventional 10-40. From 50-200 run it like you want. It’s already broken in. At 200 switch to your preferred simi synthetic. Then At 600 miles take it back for your “first service”. Don’t say shit about what you have done. Pay the extra to have synthetic and then do all your mods. Change oil every 3k. At ten k resink and adjust valves. And do new plugs then. Then run the piss out of it changing oil every 3k and then 10k service. Every ten k. And you will have a strong bike as long as you want. (Don’t avoid all the other maintenance I did not mention lol). I was referring more to engine maintenance than over all bike maintenance

I have done more new bikes this way than I can count. They always produce top power. And they last.

at the end of the day. Do whatever you want. Even follow the manual. A lot of people do. A lot of people are ignorant about the workings of engines. Not saying it’s a a bad thing. But ya don’t know what ya don’t know. And the method I described. I know.

I say don’t do mods till 600. Because 99%of the time if there is a factory over look or mess up. You find it before 500 miles. At 600 if broken in correctly and zero issues. 99% chance you want have anything major. For a long long time. And exhaust, filter and tune doesn’t void your warranty unless those mods can or have effected the problem. Key word CAN. And a lot CAN be effected by a bad tune. So just not worth trying to fight corporate even if it’s not the mods that caused the problem

 

Hey bro, I just bought a 2021 zx6 with 1100 miles, it’s sat the last 4-5 months at minimum and the thing is super clean and as far as I can tell well taken care of, but I don’t know any of the service info on it. The oil looks semi dark through the lens but that’s the extent of what I know, what do you I do as far as a service plan? Some ppl suggest changing the oil as soon as they bring a used one home, every xxxx miles, and so on. I’m up in the air in what I should do and am very limited on funds and this thing is my baby so I want her to last as long and as best as possible! Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏🏼

 

one shop on youtube got massive gains in hp up top over any other model year, i think it was 34hp altogether. as for top speed, sprockets, chain swap