CHARGING PROBLEMS (i think) - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 04-29-2009, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Location: I live a little South of Atlanta in an area called Ellenwood, Ga.
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I Ride: 1999 Kawasaki zx-6r (g model)
CHARGING PROBLEMS (i think)

Hello Guys I have a CHARGING system problem / question.

I recently went out to start my bike and it started right up and as I drove around the block it began to turn off...like it was fighting for battery power. I went back home and immediately check the battery for power using a volt meter and it seemed to be testing well. I started it back up and did the "poor man's" alternator test where you disconnect the positive battery cable. AS SOON AS I DISCONNECTED IT THE BIKE TURN RIGHT OFF!!! upon doing this im wanting to know if its a safe bet to say that my altenator is shot?

Mind you it was working FINE before last night.
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post #2 of 35 Old 04-29-2009, 03:10 PM
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i'm a bit confused....if you disconnect the battery the bike will turn off. thats pretty normal. it could be the battery itself thats shot. how old is the battery and is it a proper make...ie not a cheap chinese copy. it's more likely to be the battery than alternator that goes first
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post #3 of 35 Old 04-29-2009, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Cool

Yeah you would think if you disconnected the battery it would shut off but if ur alt is working properly the bike will stay running as if nothing happened. Keep in mind its only the positive that's being disconnected. The same trick can be done on cars too. It hasn't let me down in the past. You should try it with your bike and see what it does. I have a zx7r and a couple of suzuki katanas that have all passed the "poor mans alt test". I take the positive off and they stay running. Its just baffling to me because everything was fine before. I guess if there's one thing I've learned about vehicles its that parts go out when they wanna : (

I was just looking for a sure fire way of testing the alt. I doubt I can take it out and up to autozone lol. Speaking of which I got the battery from advanced auto parts on feb 17th of this year. So I take it its still good. According to the voltag meter its putting out 12amps What REALLY sucks is I had just finished a half a month paint job on the gas tank!!!!

Last edited by SoGone12; 04-29-2009 at 07:03 PM. Reason: left out some details
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post #4 of 35 Old 04-29-2009, 07:30 PM
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a few months ago my battery went bad. i could push it off but it would not idol. it would run down the road fine. i replaced the battery and it fixed the prob. the poor man alt. test doesnt work on all vehicles. i had a 2001 s10 that would not run with the cables off.
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post #5 of 35 Old 04-30-2009, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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very cool! I guess i'll bite the bullet and buy another $60 battery
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post #6 of 35 Old 04-30-2009, 07:58 AM
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I had the same problem with my zx7 when I had it and it seemed like after just a little bit of ridding it would dig for power but wouldnt get it.. It turned out it was my fuel pump.. dont know if its the same problem your having.. But if it was between the battery and the alt. I would guess the alt. Once the bike is running isn't it the alt. that keeps it running?

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post #7 of 35 Old 04-30-2009, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by macomjac3 View Post
I had the same problem with my zx7 when I had it and it seemed like after just a little bit of ridding it would dig for power but wouldnt get it.. It turned out it was my fuel pump.. dont know if its the same problem your having.. But if it was between the battery and the alt. I would guess the alt. Once the bike is running isn't it the alt. that keeps it running?


Yes sir that's the main purpose of an altenator. I'll check into the fuel pump too though.
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post #8 of 35 Old 05-01-2009, 01:40 PM
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here's what you do my friend:

Try to charge your battery and start the bike.
When the bike is running, connect the volt meter to the battery and see the voltage. If its aroung 12V then the bike is not charging the batterry. If the voltage is 13 - 13.7 then your charging system is good.

Causes for low voltage can be: shot battery - this is when the battery is bad enough to be a resistor in the circuit ---> replace it.
If a battery is fite (go to autozone and test it) then its probably your rectifier. Them shits are notorious for going out for no reason. Lastly it could be the stator (unlikely).

So I would start with charging the battery and checking the voltage when the bike is running, or taking the battery to autozone. If the battery is good, then the rectifier is likely the problem
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post #9 of 35 Old 05-01-2009, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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you read my mind man! I actually have the battery on a charge as we speak. I'll do exactly what you suggested when i get to the bike.
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post #10 of 35 Old 05-02-2009, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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well the poor man's altenator test and the volt meter test (its reading 12v with the bike on...reving up only lowers the read out) both failed. looks like im going to have to dig into my charging system now. ill start with the rectifier as suggested. i guess its time to hit up ebay!!
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post #11 of 35 Old 05-02-2009, 04:33 PM
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i give it a 98% chance that its the rectifier! (assuming all the wires are connected). good luck man.
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post #12 of 35 Old 05-02-2009, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
i give it a 98% chance that its the rectifier! (assuming all the wires are connected). good luck man.

ordered a rectifier (used) today off ebay so it should be here by midnext week...already have a tracking number for it. i know its better to by parts like this new but funds are low lol. Now ill start figuring out how to take the bad one out...dont think its a hard thing to do. ill keep u guys posted.
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post #13 of 35 Old 05-02-2009, 07:56 PM
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the rectifier sits on the frame under the seat and is directly connected to the stator (via a huge round connector). So when you take your tank off, just follow the main wires from the stator to the rectifier.
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post #14 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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ok i've got the new Rectifier and plugged it in.....no change. Bike still bogs down when given some throttle (doesnt rev past 5k rpm). Trying to "Gun it" produces instant shut off...Same with disconnecting the positive battery cable. still getting the same negative readings on the volt meter also. So either I've got a bum part OR its simply my stator. I have a manual that tells how to test all parts of the alt but its a lil confusing. I'll ask around for advice as to how to understand the damn charts I have. So So far i'm still in the same place.....bike starts right up though
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post #15 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 01:30 PM
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Basically a rectifier/regulator turns ac into dc. The altinator supplies ac across a number of diodes to limit the flow in one direction and turns it to positive dc which is then smoothed by a capacitor. If you have a tester you should be able to follow the Kawasaki manual and be able to check it. If you havent got an avo - multimeter (digital or otherwise) it might be a time to invest, it might save you the cost of a battery!
Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in motor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output. Refer to your manual, but it should say something like this.....
‚ÄĘ To check the alternator output voltage you will have to disconnect the alternator leads and check them across the connectors. Noting the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).

NOTE You will have to observe all of the saftey precautions that are specified in the manual!

Hope that helps, one of my best buys was a multimeter.
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