CHARGING PROBLEMS (i think) - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja_Jon View Post
Basically a rectifier/regulator turns ac into dc. The altinator supplies ac across a number of diodes to limit the flow in one direction and turns it to positive dc which is then smoothed by a capacitor. If you have a tester you should be able to follow the Kawasaki manual and be able to check it. If you havent got an avo - multimeter (digital or otherwise) it might be a time to invest, it might save you the cost of a battery!
Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in motor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output. Refer to your manual, but it should say something like this.....
• To check the alternator output voltage you will have to disconnect the alternator leads and check them across the connectors. Noting the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).

NOTE You will have to observe all of the saftey precautions that are specified in the manual!

Hope that helps, one of my best buys was a multimeter.


Yep that's pretty much what i read in this manual i have (speaking of which if anyone wants a copy i have it in PDF form and I'm more than willing to share). I do have a Volt Meter. It's non digital but its a volt meter and a damn good one. I'll check the voltage coming out of the Altenator wires tonight. THANKS JON!! I just got kinda cross eyes looking at all the different readings / charts that are in the maual.
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post #17 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 03:38 PM
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I have a non starting electrical fault on my 636 B1H 6R, been through much of the electrical system trying to trace the problem, intermitent faults, dont you just love them?!* I get it started by rocking the bike, sometimes taking 5-10 minutes... not let me down yet, but as I use it daily its getting annoying.

Good luck with your problem.
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post #18 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja_Jon View Post
I get it started by rocking the bike, sometimes taking 5-10 minutes...
Check for loose or corroded connections, rocking the bike may result in the loose or cruddy connection making contact.
When you say 'non starting' do you mean the starter motor is not always working? Also check yr starter solenoid / relay

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post #19 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 04:14 PM
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All connections so far ok, have checked all relays, and earths and power to ECU. All looks ok. When it has the fault, the engine turns over, but doesnt fire. It may be the ignition switch? I plan to do continuity with all wires related to this at the weekend.

I will recheck the starter solenoid relay too.

The ECU relay and the fuel pump relay are ok, I've checked the cutout circuit, side stand switch etc.

Thanks very much for your response.
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post #20 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 04:24 PM
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Ah, well if there were problems with cutout switches or the relay then it wouldn't turn over. Have you checked it's not a fuel supply issue?

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post #21 of 35 Old 05-07-2009, 04:34 PM
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Have read the DFI section of the Kawasaki manual in depth and as there was an error 13 and 14 held withing the ECU have checked them - although they dont really relate to the problem (air inlet temp and water temp). I have started to review the DFI wiring diagram and am trying to isolate the circuits that would cause this fault but still allow the engine to turn over but not fire. I would like to test for a spark to see if the coils are acting up, do you know the best way to do this, do I just remove the tank and airbox etc and turn it over resting the plug on the block? or is there a better way - do you know?

Again thanks for you reply, I didnt mean to manopolise this original thread...
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post #22 of 35 Old 05-11-2009, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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I just ordered a new stator from old bike barn ( http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Kawasaki-...adsource=M8001 ) it should be here in a few days so I Hope this takes care of my charing problem. NEW rectifier....NEW stator. Seems like pretty easy math.
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post #23 of 35 Old 05-11-2009, 03:36 PM
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sorry to hear that it wasn't the rectifier. well, i guess, stator is the only other option. check the connections too.
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post #24 of 35 Old 05-12-2009, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
sorry to hear that it wasn't the rectifier. well, i guess, stator is the only other option. check the connections too.


Yep I've gone through disconnecting (cleaning) and re-connecting all the wires. I just really hope this does the trick becuase I'm SOOOO ready to ride.
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post #25 of 35 Old 05-12-2009, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja_Jon View Post
Have read the DFI section of the Kawasaki manual in depth and as there was an error 13 and 14 held withing the ECU have checked them - although they dont really relate to the problem (air inlet temp and water temp). I have started to review the DFI wiring diagram and am trying to isolate the circuits that would cause this fault but still allow the engine to turn over but not fire. I would like to test for a spark to see if the coils are acting up, do you know the best way to do this, do I just remove the tank and airbox etc and turn it over resting the plug on the block? or is there a better way - do you know?

Again thanks for you reply, I didnt mean to manopolise this original thread...


No problem!!! knowledge is power!!! ask away!!
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post #26 of 35 Old 05-15-2009, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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So I got the stator in and I got the rectifier and the bike Seems to be charging ok but Now there's an issue of the throttle. When I pull the throttle down hard and fast (as If i was gunning it) the bike sputters and turns off pretty much instantly and I can't get the rpms up over 6k. I went through the carbs this morning and they are pretty damn clean. Put them back on and it drove good as hell...suited up and jumped on it again and the problem had returned. I'm going to blow some SeaFoam through it later today to see it that will help. Oh and it IS getting gas I hook up a remote tank with a clear hose and you can see the gas travelling freely from the tank to the fuel filter and so on. hmmmmm Maybe i'll look into my fuel filter also.
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post #27 of 35 Old 05-18-2009, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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Latest update...the bike is running fine. Fires up and revs up nicely. I changed out the rectifier first (nothing), then the stator (still didnt rev right), then went in and just did a complete tune up (well I would still like a BRAND NEW air filter). I changed the oil, did a coolant flush, changed the sparks, cleaned the air filter and adjusted the throttle. Now she's riding how she's supposed to.


Hey can anyone tell me which side of the AIR filter goes UP (like how it sits into the bike)? It has a metal grated side and then the orange filter side. Which one goes up?
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post #28 of 35 Old 05-18-2009, 07:54 PM
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it should say on the filter. dirty side down
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post #29 of 35 Old 03-14-2012, 10:55 PM
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Really really helpful post guys. Thank you

I really wanna change that squid bellow my avatar and I dunno how!!!
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post #30 of 35 Old 04-09-2012, 09:49 PM
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guys i have a similar problem.
When i start up my bike "Kawasaki zx6r 2009" i my bike is charging oke.
I disconnect the battery and after few minutes i have to ref the bike just to keep it running regularly and the charging drops to 8 - 10 volts.
After some more minutes the bike just dies on me.
After connecting the bike i can get the bike to start up again but i see the system has completely stop charging.

if i let the bike cool of for a day everything work fine when starting it initially but soon after the problems start up again.

i have already changed my rectifier and battery.
what else would you guys recommend me.
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