'13 ZX6R 636 - Choppy throttle at low speeds in 1st - Page 5 - ZX6R Forum
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post #61 of 74 Old 04-26-2015, 01:02 PM
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I can confirm the problem. last year i had a 2013 636, and it was choppy in 1st like everyone say here. Now i have a 2014, and the problem is gone. Kawa must fixed something and they stayed quiet about it.....
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post #62 of 74 Old 04-26-2015, 01:04 PM
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Why would you be sending fuel to the engine with a closed throttle? Mine works just as I would expect it to when going from closed throttle to open but maybe I'm just used to it?


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post #63 of 74 Old 04-26-2015, 03:10 PM
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Thanks Ski for letting me know the 2013 flash does allow for fuel cut disable. What is described here sounds like the fuel cut and the injectors coming back on. Based off knowing it is available for the 13 I will order the woolich kit tonight.

I have woolich on my zx10 and the fuel cut disable option combined with a great fuel curve has my zx10 very smooth and predictable. I don't even want to ride my zx6 on the track until the fuel cut is fixed. I admit I do not have enough throttle control, but the fuel cut sure does make it throttle control much more manageable.

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post #64 of 74 Old 04-26-2015, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PuffNFresh View Post
Agreed. I have been trying to be as gentle as possible in 1st gear. It helps when you practice rolling on the throttle (in any gear) as opposed to just grabbing a bunch of throttle to accelerate.
Indeed, and same thing for deceleration. If you're in 1st, and you're slow at the end of the gear, and you close the throttle fast you're going to jerk. Roll it closed just as easy as you would rolling it open.
 
post #65 of 74 Old 05-03-2015, 02:33 PM
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I got used to slipping the clutch when trying to cruise at low throttle input, it decreases that jerk you feel wen letting off throttle. I know exactly what people are describing it happens to EVERYBODY on every modern fuel injected bike. When I was looking into this, there are people on gixxer forums, cbr forums etc. And always same fix for everybody - ecu tune/reflash.

When I installed power commander and had the bike tuned, the jerky throttle seemed to go away, but recently it came back, and with the PCV instead of the coppy throttle I get bucking and surging, unable to cruise at 30-40mph, so I'd always have to be off the throttle decelerating, or on the throttle accelerating, no coasting allowed lol. Now I'm contemplating on selling PCV and getting the ECU reflashed.
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post #66 of 74 Old 05-03-2015, 09:58 PM
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I'm still having this issue. Some of us have discussed this in other threads and what I have came to realize on the other thread is that us who are affected, are ones who have changed their gearing. I've posted on this thread earlier.

What Musililx said is completely stupid. It has nothing to do with throttle control. If you add a steady 5-10% throttle as the rpm climbs or hangs around the 4krpm area, through bike cuts in and out, it surges. How does a constant throttle, never changing the throttle position mean bad throttle control? It only happens at 3.5k - 4krpm. I had my girl on the back with me and the surge is so bad, she kinda pushed into me as its unexpected. So.. congratulations, you don't have the issue, so piss off.

I don't think this has anything to do with the deceleration cut off. I'm not decelerating, if anything I'm ACCELERATING, just very slowly. Now what I think is it does have something to do with how the bike adds fuel with a pressure sensor from 1-9% and from the TPS at 10% and above. That sounds logical.

Either way, the only way for this problem to get fixed is take it to your dealer! There's no way Kawasaki will fix this if they don't know thay there's a problem. Dealers don't know that this is an issue, because there aren't any issues on it on file. I'm taking my bike up to my dealer this week to get it recorded, but I can attest that it won't be fixed because they don't have a recorded problem from Kawasaki therefor won't have a solution
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post #67 of 74 Old 08-15-2016, 04:48 AM
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Thanks for the help!

Literally created an account just to post this, recently purchased a second hand 2013 zx6r with the exact same issue, throttle would "surge" from low revs, meaning you always had to be feathering the clutch, pain in the ass for street riding.
--
I took the above advice, went and got the ECU re-flashed, removed the fuel cut on deceleration, even got the mechanic to do a dyno run for a new fuel map, THIS DID NOT FIX THE ISSUE, but were on the right track.
--
Mechanic did some research, found out this was a 2013 specific issue, something to do with ignition timings he told me, so what he did was overlay a flash from a 2014 zx6r ECU, and also removed the motor for the exhaust valve controller (Exhaust valves and servo motors explained)
--
Once this was done , issue completely resolved, bike is noticeably smoother, easier to ride, easier to get back on the throttle, and you will notice the engine braking is way less harsh, making corner entry easier. Another bonus is when you remove the exhaust servo motor, the exhaust now has a really cool burble, popping on deceleration.
--
Apart from that , thanks for pointing me in the right direction, if anyone is in Sydney (not many places that do ECU flashing for some reason), BC performance in smithfield is where I got the work done, speak with Kelvin, he'll know exactly what to do.
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post #68 of 74 Old 04-30-2017, 12:10 AM
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My 2015 has the same choppy throttle problems- k&n filter,two brothers slip on, no cat and z afm. Formerly employed at Denso for 18 years, every year big brother and the emmisions police ask for fuel cuts although they're not concerned about our motorcycles having a case of the herky jerkies In the apex of a turn, some manufacturers do more then just meet the challenge target, they bend over backwards for them while production/qc is only human. This problem stemmed from fi motorcycles, some brands worse than others and every year is one more step backwards.
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post #69 of 74 Old 05-01-2017, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZXROM View Post
I got used to slipping the clutch when trying to cruise at low throttle input, it decreases that jerk you feel when letting off throttle. I know exactly what people are describing it happens to EVERYBODY on every modern fuel injected bike. When I was looking into this, there are people on gixxer forums, cbr forums etc. And always same fix for everybody - ecu tune/reflash.

When I installed power commander and had the bike tuned, the jerky throttle seemed to go away, but recently it came back, and with the PCV instead of the coppy throttle I get bucking and surging, unable to cruise at 30-40mph, so I'd always have to be off the throttle decelerating, or on the throttle accelerating, no coasting allowed lol. Now I'm contemplating on selling PCV and getting the ECU reflashed.
You might need to change what rpm the autotune kicks in if you have one or make sure your map doesn't have something funky at a certain rpm range. My PCV is smooth smooth all the way up and cruising both when I had no autotune and now that I do. It does still buck when you go on and off throttle, but it will cruise fine. The fuel cutoff makes decel an on / off thing instead of a transition.

I did discover you can bump the throttle a tiny bit on decel and make it pop / crackle though lol. Is fun at night.
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post #70 of 74 Old 09-07-2017, 06:04 AM
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I've gotten most of mine ironed out and mine was pretty bad - it was a combination of primary tps adjustment(I set mine on bazzaz diagnostics 1.02 closed, 4.36 open throttle), removed secondary flies, synced tb's (don't add fuel down low with bazzaz or pc- but sync them til your afr is showing about 13.4 at idle). I'm running 12.5 across 80% of my map, so the lower the idle afr, smoother the transition and don't sync to 4,000 rpm like most YouTube sensations instruct on videos.... your idle afr will shoot over 14.0 and transition will not be smooth. Most important was throttle cable/ idle screw adjustment- you can set to the proper slack (2-3 mm) and still be set wrong (is the slack set on the throttle cable? Or the return?) Now see what I mean? Lol! Also make sure cables are routed properly. Even then, your tank bolts can be torqued too tight and pinch the cables causing on/off transition. I now have extremely smooth on throttle transition, off throttle is still abrupt somewhat, but mechanical nature and fuel cut off on decel are factors you'll have to live with until ecu flash is performed (which I haven't gotten done.... yet). The biggest factors were tb sync and throttle cables, but something even techs don't understand is if you have secondaries still in, that tps needs to be adjusted in conjunction with the primary (they don't effect each other's voltage, but they do work in conjunction and can be set for smoother throttle transition).

Also.... if secondaries open, then judder before they close during start up sequence that shit ain't set right! (Think servo motor trying to move past it's travel limit cause the voltage is too low at fully open position!) Mine was set like this with precision from the factory btw lol.
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post #71 of 74 Old 09-07-2017, 07:07 AM
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I removed fuel cut on decel, tightened the throttle cables where any movement at closed throttle moves the throttle, and removed the pair valve and plugged the lines. Also, adjusted the STP to stay open a little more on decel.

Smooth throttle transitions are a result. Also, added a little timing at idle.

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post #72 of 74 Old 09-15-2019, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MegaTechPC View Post
I've ridden my new 2013 636 a grand total of 47 miles in two days and have not noticed any choppiness in the throttle at all so far. In fact, this is the smoothest and most controllable throttle I can remember using on any of my bikes. My only complaint so far is difficulty going down to neutral from second when coming to a stop. It goes into first so much easier than my last bike and skips right over neutral, which is good I guess as I need to get out of my habit of sitting in neutral at lights...
You can't go to neutral from second. The gear box is designed to go from second down to first and then back up to neutral (but only into neutral if the bike isn't moving). If you are somehow getting from second to neutral sometimes, then it's accidental.

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post #73 of 74 Old 09-15-2019, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Muilisx View Post
This is rider error due to poor throttle control. I have a 2014 636, my friend has a 2013, and my other buddy has a 2015 636 and I rode both of theirs, and no issues with throttle response or anything in that nature. I mean sure some of you may become defensive with that statement but it's just like when people shift from 1st to 2nd but go to neutral and ask why. Rider error not shifting hard enough. This is no different. The Ninja 300's 1st gear is SO SHORT that every new rider with a 300 says 1st gear is so jerky. I had a 300, and yes 1st gear can be jerky because it's so short but I never had an issue because of proper throttle control. I mean sure you guys could have some form of potential issue but chances are it's just throttle control.
No, it isn't poor throttle control. I have a 2009 and a friend has a 2012, and both have the same mods (exhaust, block off plates, gearing, etc). Mine has the choppy throttle symptoms, but when I ride his, there is no trace of the symptoms. My throttle control is the same on both... smooth. There is definitely something else that is causing this issue, and I wish we could figure out exactly what it is.

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post #74 of 74 Old 09-15-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tac12345 View Post
I can confirm the problem. last year i had a 2013 636, and it was choppy in 1st like everyone say here. Now i have a 2014, and the problem is gone. Kawa must fixed something and they stayed quiet about it.....
The year doesn't seem to matter, I've seen people with all different year models have the problem, and other people with the same year models not have any trace of the problem.

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