The Official Bazzazz Q&A Thread - Page 7 - ZX6R Forum
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post #91 of 362 Old 09-26-2013, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitemare15 View Post
Is your bike GP shift? Because if so I'm pretty sure that the Bazzaz you have is the standard and not the reverse version.
there is no version for GP or STD shifts... the only thing that does matter is the sensor on the Shift Linkage...its a Push or Pull type... the ZFI doesn't care as it reads that the shift is being made and needs to cut ignition...

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post #92 of 362 Old 09-27-2013, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09ZX-6R View Post
there is no version for GP or STD shifts... the only thing that does matter is the sensor on the Shift Linkage...its a Push or Pull type... the ZFI doesn't care as it reads that the shift is being made and needs to cut ignition...
I work in a motorcycle shop. They absolutely do have standard shift and reverse shift... as a matter of fact:

Models : Kawasaki ZX6R '07-08

Z-Fi TC traction + qs + fuel (std shift)[#127069]

Z-Fi TC traction + qs + fuel (rev shift)[#127083]
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post #93 of 362 Old 09-27-2013, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitemare15 View Post
I work in a motorcycle shop. They absolutely do have standard shift and reverse shift... as a matter of fact:

Models : Kawasaki ZX6R '07-08

Z-Fi TC traction + qs + fuel (std shift)[#127069]

Z-Fi TC traction + qs + fuel (rev shift)[#127083]
im a tech in a shop as well (see signature)... i know they sell them as different kits... i never said they didnt.. i said that it didnt make a difference to the zfi if it was revers or std... its the sensor that make the difference... the kits for std has a differ. part number than the the kit with the rev. shift because it has a different sensor...thats it... the zfi for both are the same...re-read my statement carefully...

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post #94 of 362 Old 09-27-2013, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09ZX-6R View Post
your X-tre shouldnt have any interference with it... pending you have the latest version of bazzaz software (204)...get it here --->>>http://bazzaz.net/software/ZFiSoftwareV204.exe

follow these steps VERY CAREFULLY!!!

1. open the software while connected to the bike...key "on" but bike NOT running...
2. click "diagnostics" tab... when the box opens up, you will have a list of sensors and info to calibrate with...
3. click "Read Closed" tab... this will allow the Zfi to read voltage with the throttle fully closed and at the supplied voltage the ECU is giving and receiving...
4. turn the throttle to FULL OPEN and click "read open" tab while holding the throttle open...DO NOT LET GO TILL READING IS SHOWN AND SAVED
5. click "save"

the next few steps must be done with EXTREME CAUTION and its always best to have a partner to help out...if u have a second person to help, have them control the PC/Laptop/Tablet... you control the bike...

WARNING, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU, SOMEONE, OR PROPERTY GETS HURT OR DAMAGED IN THESE STEPS...FOLLOW WITH EXTREME CAUTION!!!!

1. put bike on a rear stand or elevate the rear wheel off the ground with a hoist...SAFETY FIRST!!!
2. start the engine and ensure bike is in neutral...
3. let the bike warm up to about 130deg Fahrenheit...

with the bike connected, software running and in diagnostic mode...

4. engage 1st gear on bike and let the clutch out to allow the wheel to spin...and the RPM to reach 3000rpm
5. have a partner click "learn 1st"... the values will appear. once this happens, repeat steps 4 and 5 for the rest of the gears...
6. when done put the bike into Neutral and close the screen and software,disconnect from the zfi, then shut down the bike...DO NOT USE THE KILL SWITCH, USE THE KEY...
7. reconnect to ZFi, turn Key "ON", DO NOT START THE BIKE...
8. reopen the software, go back to Diagnostics, and verify the settings are still present... If done correctly, this should fix your issue PENDING the ZFI is the problem...If not, you could have a dirty contact in the gear position switch that doesn't allow the ZFI to read correctly...

hope this helps....
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try and post back how it works out.
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post #95 of 362 Old 09-27-2013, 01:42 PM
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Ok, I first tried to recalibrate it and it didn't work. Same results. I called Bazzaz tech support and they couldn't tell me how to fix it. Only that the x-tre needed to be wired in AFTER the Bazzaz Z-fi. So, after examining the x-tre instructions for a while and looking at the factory wiring and connector diagrams, I figured out how to do that.

The x-tre is wired in by removing 2 wires from the gear position sensor connector and routing them into the x-tre. Then 2 wires to the meter are connect to the output of the x-tre while 2 more output wires go to the factory ECU. On the wires to the meter the normal gear position signal is sent so the dash displays what gear your in. On the wires to the ECU it tells the ECU it's in 4th gear all the time to get full ignition advance in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears.

So, the fix was to take the 2 wires coming from the gear position sensor and place them back into the factory connector, then plug the Bazzaz connector into that. Then on the Bazzaz connector coming back to the factory wiring harness, remove the same 2 wires carrying the gear position signal and plug those into the x-tre connector. Reconnect the x-tre per it's wiring and now the Bazzaz is getting the signal before the x-tre.

I had to recalibrate the gear position signal in the Bazzaz software and it now read the correct gear.

And thank you 09ZX-6R for the instructions on calibrating the software. It was very helpful to have that on hand.
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post #96 of 362 Old 10-03-2013, 12:48 PM
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What is the cost of a tune done by a shop after installing a Bazzazz? I am sure the cost will be higher on the coasts verses the midwest where I am located. Just trying to get a handle on how much one of these will end of costing me after I get it installed? It seems like if the cost is very much, it would be a less expensive route to get the AFM unit and have a fully up to date map as I ride as compared to a one time tune by someone who may or may not be an expert.

I know this group has lots of opinions, lets hear them!
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post #97 of 362 Old 10-07-2013, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by reed12b View Post
What is the cost of a tune done by a shop after installing a Bazzazz? I am sure the cost will be higher on the coasts verses the midwest where I am located. Just trying to get a handle on how much one of these will end of costing me after I get it installed? It seems like if the cost is very much, it would be a less expensive route to get the AFM unit and have a fully up to date map as I ride as compared to a one time tune by someone who may or may not be an expert.

I know this group has lots of opinions, lets hear them!
depends on the tune... you may pay for a 1 hour tune which is a baseline and a map dropped in...

or pay for a couple hours to have a tweak tune done to a map that they drop into the module...

or have a step tune done, that can be 6-8 hrs of tuning, as they are making a map specific to your engine and needs...this is of course you DO NOT have the AFM...

the AFM is a great way to cut cost on any tune method... and it makes on the fly adjustments 10x simpler...

as far as costs...option 1 - upto 300 option 2- upto 500-600 option 3 - well into the thousands...
but if u have an AFM, it should cut time and cost in half...so long as the tuner is experienced and knows what the hell they are doing...

my shop charges 250/hr...regardless of the type of tune...

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post #98 of 362 Old 10-07-2013, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by NatBrown View Post
Ok, I first tried to recalibrate it and it didn't work. Same results. I called Bazzaz tech support and they couldn't tell me how to fix it. Only that the x-tre needed to be wired in AFTER the Bazzaz Z-fi. So, after examining the x-tre instructions for a while and looking at the factory wiring and connector diagrams, I figured out how to do that.

The x-tre is wired in by removing 2 wires from the gear position sensor connector and routing them into the x-tre. Then 2 wires to the meter are connect to the output of the x-tre while 2 more output wires go to the factory ECU. On the wires to the meter the normal gear position signal is sent so the dash displays what gear your in. On the wires to the ECU it tells the ECU it's in 4th gear all the time to get full ignition advance in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears.

So, the fix was to take the 2 wires coming from the gear position sensor and place them back into the factory connector, then plug the Bazzaz connector into that. Then on the Bazzaz connector coming back to the factory wiring harness, remove the same 2 wires carrying the gear position signal and plug those into the x-tre connector. Reconnect the x-tre per it's wiring and now the Bazzaz is getting the signal before the x-tre.

I had to recalibrate the gear position signal in the Bazzaz software and it now read the correct gear.

And thank you 09ZX-6R for the instructions on calibrating the software. It was very helpful to have that on hand.
glad u got it worked out... happy to help... must say tho, iv never run into that before... good to know...

2010 ZX6R-Ti Valves-Billet deg.cams-MPQT Throttle-Type A&C Trans-Bazzaz ZFi-QS-TC-Ign.Mod.-M4(full) exhaust-MBR AMA Engine-BMC Race filter-SMEv3-SpeedoDRD-STPS mod-Magnesium Wheels-R10 type 3-RK gold-15f/16f w/42r,44r,45r spkts.-ohlins 25mm forks, ohlins TTX36 Markll shock- brembo ft/rr Mstr. cyl-SS lines-Vesrah Sinterd pads-galpher wave ft/rr rotors-alumalite tripple clamps-custom paint-tank foam-tecspec pads-VDS mod-Manual dual fan-Radiator guard-keyless ign.-dual mapped.

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post #99 of 362 Old 10-07-2013, 06:04 AM
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Hey, I have another question. Is there a good strategy for getting the AFM to provide a full map by just riding on the street. I'll get a full tune on a dyno shortly but in the mean time I was experimenting with the AFM.

I tried just doing first gear runs. Start off from maybe 15mph and then open the throttle to 10% and run it till it wouldn't pull any more. Go back to 15mph open the throttle to 25% and run it till it wouldn't pull any more. Rinse and repeat until I got to 100% and was running it to redline.

It worked ok but had some big holes in the map. Mostly over 60% throttle. Maybe I was unable to hold it at different throttle positions over 60% as well. Or maybe it was filling in the gaps below 60% when just riding to and from the house. I did get good values for 100% throttle which isn't hard to find or hold

The new map it created worked great. But it isn't perfect due to the gaps in it. I just don't think that the factory ECU is fueling perfect in the places where the AFM didn't suggest any changes.

So, any suggestions for a strategy for getting the AFM to pick up the gaps. Or a more reliable method for using it short of a dyno or track session?
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post #100 of 362 Old 12-07-2013, 06:41 AM
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When is the Bluetooth module going to be available?

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post #101 of 362 Old 12-08-2013, 11:30 AM
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Another bung hole question. I bought a full Yoshi RS-5 for my '08 and it doesn't have an o2 sensor port. I see in the AFM documentation that the o2 sensor should be installed immediately following the collector. The problem I have is there appears to be a separate catalytic converter immediately following the collector that connects to the headers. The best spot would probably be right at the connection point but obviously can't be put there because it's a connection point.

I have attached an image where I "think" I might be able to put it, right at the collector but I'm not sure if the exhaust from all 4 cylinders would be mixed enough right at that point. Maybe I should just cut the cat out and replace it with a straight pipe? To be honest I didn't even realize it came with a cat when I purchased the pipe. That would also limit me on the type of fuel I can run right?

Red dot where I "think" I might be able to put it:



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post #102 of 362 Old 12-08-2013, 08:56 PM
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When is the Bluetooth module going to be available?
Don't know, don't work there anymore. My guess is at least two months after whenever their projected release date is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdayhero View Post
Another bung hole question. I bought a full Yoshi RS-5 for my '08 and it doesn't have an o2 sensor port. I see in the AFM documentation that the o2 sensor should be installed immediately following the collector. The problem I have is there appears to be a separate catalytic converter immediately following the collector that connects to the headers. The best spot would probably be right at the connection point but obviously can't be put there because it's a connection point.

I have attached an image where I "think" I might be able to put it, right at the collector but I'm not sure if the exhaust from all 4 cylinders would be mixed enough right at that point. Maybe I should just cut the cat out and replace it with a straight pipe? To be honest I didn't even realize it came with a cat when I purchased the pipe. That would also limit me on the type of fuel I can run right?

Red dot where I "think" I might be able to put it:



Looks like you've got the right location there. Weird that the full Yosh has a Cat in it; I didn't know they did that.

If you want the breakdown on fuel management systems, take some time to read this thread.
For a walk through on pulling FI Codes, check out this thread.
Questions about Flashed ECUs vs. Fuel Controllers? Try this one.
Got a Z-Fi TC System? Read This to get an idea of how it works.
Here's a link to some Kawasaki Service Manuals that I've got hosted for everyone's use.
And please check out my blog for more sage advice and technical ramblings.
Some basics about braking here.
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post #103 of 362 Old 12-09-2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilTwin View Post
Looks like you've got the right location there. Weird that the full Yosh has a Cat in it; I didn't know they did that.
I just realized that isn't a cat. There are two versions of this exhaust, one race and one street. The street version has the cat. My version does not. I also realized I don't have room to put it at the back of the headers when mounted on the bike so I think I'm going to put it right behind that resonator. I'll have to cut into the bracket to do it but I don't have any other option that I can see. I got an email from Yoshi saying I definitely do not want to mount it on the resonator itself. The bracket could be welded to the bung where it is cut so I don't think it should cause any strength issues. I really don't have any other option. Here's a closeup of the bracket behind the resonator:

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post #104 of 362 Old 12-09-2013, 09:37 PM
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Well shit, if you're not allowed to put it on the resonator then I guess just put it where ever it fits.

If you want the breakdown on fuel management systems, take some time to read this thread.
For a walk through on pulling FI Codes, check out this thread.
Questions about Flashed ECUs vs. Fuel Controllers? Try this one.
Got a Z-Fi TC System? Read This to get an idea of how it works.
Here's a link to some Kawasaki Service Manuals that I've got hosted for everyone's use.
And please check out my blog for more sage advice and technical ramblings.
Some basics about braking here.
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post #105 of 362 Old 12-10-2013, 12:01 AM
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Since I am running two identical bikes can I put a Z-FI and Z-AFM on one machine and just a Z-FI on the 2nd machine and just copy the tuned map of the day over from one bike to the other?

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