Sprocket setup - Page 6 - ZX6R Forum
View Poll Results: What sprockets are on her bike?
Stock 308 51.94%
-1/+1 21 3.54%
-1/+2 177 29.85%
-1/+3 21 3.54%
-1/+4 3 0.51%
-1/+5 4 0.67%
-1/+6 1 0.17%
-1/+7 and up 2 0.34%
-2/+3 1 0.17%
-2/+4 0 0%
-2/+5 and up 1 0.17%
Other 54 9.11%
Voters: 593. You may not vote on this poll

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post #76 of 348 Old 03-01-2012, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
Okay...I'm a sproket noob but let me see if I got this right.

Stock sprockets are a heavy steel or some other material correct?
Stock = Steel

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
Getting aftermarket aluminum sprockets would help reduce rotational mass which would help with acceleration.
Aftermarket front sprockets are still steel, rears can be steel or aluminum. If you go w/an aluminum rear, it will have less rotational mass, but not sure you'll notice a big difference. You will notice the biggest difference due to the dropping teeth in the front and/or adding teeth to the rear.

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How is the bike affected if you change just one sprocket?
If you drop teeth in the front OR add teeth to the rear you will improve acceleration. However your total top end ability of the bike will also drop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
I imagine changing the front would help with quicker acceleration but what does changing the rear do?
If you add teeth to the rear it is like dropping teeth from the rear... both improve acceleration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
Does this affect gas economy? or not really as it doesn't affect the gearing and its still all based on how you are with the throttle?
Your cruising RPMs will be higher and in essence could affect fuel mileage. Doubt it will do much more than 1-2mpg and maybe even no measurable/consistent impact. You'll have more impact by how much the right hand likes "to play".

[QUOTE=MDeezy;337233]Since the stock sprockets are of a heavier thicker metal material, i'd imagine they last a lot longer. Since aftermarket stock ones are aluminum I'd imagine their lifespan is half? Steel sprockets will last longer than aluminum. Not sure exactly how much longer.

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Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
I mainly stayed away cause I figured it would affect gas econ, especially since I use mine for commuting in addition to fun.
A cheap test to see if you like it and if your fuel mileage is impacted much, if any, would be to drop one tooth in the front. Cost will only be about $25-$30 and if you don't like it you can easily swap it back and sell it to someone else. Rears are probably $60-$70.

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post #77 of 348 Old 03-01-2012, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeezy View Post
Okay...I'm a sproket noob but let me see if I got this right.

Stock sprockets are a heavy steel or some other material correct?

Getting aftermarket aluminum sprockets would help reduce rotational mass which would help with acceleration.

How is the bike affected if you change just one sprocket?

I imagine changing the front would help with quicker acceleration but what does changing the rear do?

Does this affect gas economy? or not really as it doesn't affect the gearing and its still all based on how you are with the throttle?

Since the stock sprockets are of a heavier thicker metal material, i'd imagine they last a lot longer. Since aftermarket stock ones are aluminum I'd imagine their lifespan is half?



I mainly stayed away cause I figured it would affect gas econ, especially since I use mine for commuting in addition to fun.
Hi. I'm a bit of a noob too but I've got my head around how it works. Think of it as a mountain bike. If u go to less teeth on the front sprocket or more teeth on the rear that will make it easier to pedal or give it better acceleration. Obviously the opposite if you add teeth on the front or lose them on the rear. If you do go to a smaller one on the front and bigger on the rear it will be easier to pedal (accelerate) but the your legs (engine) have to go round faster which means it will have higher rpm to go the same speed it did before giving you worse economy. If you added teeth on the front and took them off the rear it would give you worse acceleration but your legs (engine) would not have to go round as many times (rpm) to do the same speed you did before giving you better mileage. If that's wrong I apologize but I'm pretty sure that's exactly how it works

Just seen the post above which covers all this but I've wrote it now so I'll leave it :-)

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post #78 of 348 Old 03-01-2012, 10:53 PM
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My '04 came with stock/+4. I don't care for it at all.

I fell like I either have to short shift all the time or rev the shit out of it.

Going back to stock tomorrow if the weather holds out.
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post #79 of 348 Old 03-02-2012, 02:21 AM
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My '04 came with stock/+4. I don't care for it at all.

rev the shit out of it.
thats the fun of our bikes sit low and enjoy
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post #80 of 348 Old 03-02-2012, 06:58 AM
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thats the fun of our bikes sit low and enjoy
Nah, I want it to be more relaxed when I'm around town
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post #81 of 348 Old 03-02-2012, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d1andonlyant View Post
Hi. I'm a bit of a noob too but I've got my head around how it works. Think of it as a mountain bike. If u go to less teeth on the front sprocket or more teeth on the rear that will make it easier to pedal or give it better acceleration. Obviously the opposite if you add teeth on the front or lose them on the rear. If you do go to a smaller one on the front and bigger on the rear it will be easier to pedal (accelerate) but the your legs (engine) have to go round faster which means it will have higher rpm to go the same speed it did before giving you worse economy. If you added teeth on the front and took them off the rear it would give you worse acceleration but your legs (engine) would not have to go round as many times (rpm) to do the same speed you did before giving you better mileage. If that's wrong I apologize but I'm pretty sure that's exactly how it works

Just seen the post above which covers all this but I've wrote it now so I'll leave it :-)
Very good analogy!

As it relates to fuel economy, it may or may not hold true for improving or diminishing it with going up/down on sprockets. It also relates to where the engine's sweet spot is (power band). For example, if you decrease 6 teeth in the rear hoping for better fuel economy, you may get worse if the bike actually starts to "lug" in your cruising RPM and you hae to be in the gas more to keep your speed. So the whole fuel mileage thing, although is affected, depends on more things than just a sprocket change... and in the end I would contend is more dependent on two fundamental things - how hamfisted you get (fun factor) and what speed your cruise at (aerodynamics). Those two will affect your fuel economy the most.

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post #82 of 348 Old 03-03-2012, 08:40 AM
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So I returned my bike back to stock gearing yesterday. Had a +4 in back.



Stock gearing >*. I much prefer the way it rides now. The engine isn't screaming all the time and I don't have to short shift.
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post #83 of 348 Old 03-09-2012, 04:13 PM
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there are plenty of different set ups as we know for the bikes
lets just say mine .....which is a 2001 J model
i find -1 front .......stock gearing at the rear ......
its all really down to you as the rider what you prefer ......ive played about with mine alot and thats the best setup which works for the way i ride
everyone is different
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post #84 of 348 Old 03-09-2012, 04:28 PM
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I recently installed vortex -1+2 cat5 red. I felt a little torque gain but definitely lost top end, no dyno included just feel on the ride. another con is the noise my front sprocket made was a ticking sound due to no gromet or rubber seal on the sprocket. I kept +2 and went back to stock kawi sprocket on the front. I still feel xtra torque but i gained on mid and top, again just from feel of the ride, no actual dyno.
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post #85 of 348 Old 03-09-2012, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaWarrior View Post
I recently installed vortex -1+2 cat5 red. I felt a little torque gain but definitely lost top end, no dyno included just feel on the ride. another con is the noise my front sprocket made was a ticking sound due to no gromet or rubber seal on the sprocket. I kept +2 and went back to stock kawi sprocket on the front. I still feel xtra torque but i gained on mid and top, again just from feel of the ride, no actual dyno.
You will not gain power/torque (at least not enough to call it a gain)

all this does is improve acceleration, however it cuts down how fast your bike is top end.
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post #86 of 348 Old 03-11-2012, 07:06 PM
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You will not gain power/torque (at least not enough to call it a gain)

all this does is improve acceleration, however it cuts down how fast your bike is top end.
+1 thats what i meant lol, acceleration.
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post #87 of 348 Old 03-11-2012, 07:21 PM
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Has a really good launch and acceleration but takes away from top end like 6 mph. But I don't always go 170+. But leaving people at red lights are fun


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post #88 of 348 Old 03-11-2012, 07:21 PM
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Yeah they make a bit of a difference.. hard to keep the front wheel down now..
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post #89 of 348 Old 03-13-2012, 12:01 PM
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ok so im def hearing -1 in the front and stock rear is a decent set up for take off and acceleration, but my question is im intersted in learning wheelies, but i dont want to be riding one every time i take off from a light. so my question is will just doing -1 in the front and leaving the rear stock make enough difference in the low end that i will be able to wheelie easier, but not affect the normal ride that much. ??
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post #90 of 348 Old 03-13-2012, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by eggroll1989 View Post
ok so im def hearing -1 in the front and stock rear is a decent set up for take off and acceleration, but my question is im intersted in learning wheelies, but i dont want to be riding one every time i take off from a light. so my question is will just doing -1 in the front and leaving the rear stock make enough difference in the low end that i will be able to wheelie easier, but not affect the normal ride that much. ??
From what I hear you would want the +2 in the back if you want to learn/do a lot of wheelies.

You wont do a wheelie leaving the light as long as your not accelerating that hard. the sprocket change will can help you do wheelies easier but it wont make you do a wheelie without you knowing it unless you bad on the throttle.

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