-1/+2 Vortex steel countershaft and aluminum rear.
Pros. Quicker acceleration, very responsive, a little better flickability transitioning from turn to turn due to less spinning mass
Cons. Throttle is a bit choppier but not bad. And top speed is lower. Exactly 150mph at the rev limiter. But I'm at the track going fast usually and never have seen more than about 135 in the long straights before its on the brakes time. Freeway riding is a little crappy just because it's about 8k at 75mph. So a little buzzy and less fuel mileage.
That's what I have on mine yeah you do lose about 15 or so mph on top end but you can still do 145 or 150 on a good day and that's plenty fast and trust me nothing car wise will keep up
Newb question. What is the difference inbetween the two sprockets.
I mean obviously there is a front and a rear sprocket. But what will increasing/decreasing each do. I'm assuming + in the rear would equate to quicker acceleration.
-1,+6... but this is on a race bike and our track is quite tight/technical.
My suggestion would be to figure out what kinda top speed you're looking for at the end of the day and then go with a sprocket combination that gets you there. You can play around w/all that w/the following link --> Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator Most folks believe they want all the top speed they can get, but the reality is most never use the very top (most not all). So think back to your last 10 rides and what top speed would you overall be happy with. If you're looking for all the top speed you can get, well you got the wrong bike to begin with... so be honest w/yourself.
If you want to play around with with a minimal "buy-in", just get you a -1 front and throw it on. It's equivalent to adding about 2.6-ish teeth to the rear. You won't have to change the length of your chain and you're only gonna be out about $25-$30.
If you want to play around with with a minimal "buy-in", just get you a -1 front and throw it on. It's equivalent to adding about 2.6-ish teeth to the rear. You won't have to change the length of your chain and you're only gonna be out about $25-$30.
-1/stock. Lots of people like the -1/+2 not me. It was TOO much. Wasn't smooth enough for me. -1 gives me a lil more torque without it being a track/wheelie type bike.
If you need a new chain and you plan to do a 520 conversion, then go for it. If you're thinking that the 520 is going to get you noticeable acceleration difference due to less rotational mass, you're probably wasting money. Don't get me wrong, there is an improvement, but the average rider isn't gonna notice it much if at all. The best bang out there to increase acceleration is spending $25-$30 on a -1 front and you will notice a significant difference.
I have heard -1 in the front puts more stress on the chain do to the smaller diameter. I've heard this straight from a racer face to face because I asked him.
Im still stock other than my FMF stubby at the moment and hit 176 just before the redline but was thinking of dropping one on the front. Cheap way of getting more acceleration, but how much will that fiddle with my speedo reading and real top speed and can you get it reading properly again for fairly cheap?
Im not sure how in the world you got a 99 zx6 to run 166, but your not getting an accurate reading with the speedo on any bike unless someone calibrated it with a speedohealer via gps.
If you have a phone or nav system that is the more accurate reading
The 99 had a k&n, was dyno jetted and had a decent exhaust. The 166 was slightly downhill but not completely redlining the life out of it and it would do 160 on the flat if I got as tucked as I could. Maybe the fact I weigh f!*k all helped.... I see what you're saying about gps giving your true speed but you could say that to anyone who isn't using gps and says their top speed is whatever. I'm not saying my bike definately does 176 but you can't say all speedos are wrong and you NEED gps
The 99 had a k&n, was dyno jetted and had a decent exhaust. The 166 was slightly downhill but not completely redlining the life out of it and it would do 160 on the flat if I got as tucked as I could. Maybe the fact I weigh f!*k all helped.... I see what you're saying about gps giving your true speed but you could say that to anyone who isn't using gps and says their top speed is whatever. I'm not saying my bike definately does 176 but you can't say all speedos are wrong and you NEED gps
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