Sprocket setup - Page 11 - ZX6R Forum
View Poll Results: What sprockets are on her bike?
Stock 308 51.94%
-1/+1 21 3.54%
-1/+2 177 29.85%
-1/+3 21 3.54%
-1/+4 3 0.51%
-1/+5 4 0.67%
-1/+6 1 0.17%
-1/+7 and up 2 0.34%
-2/+3 1 0.17%
-2/+4 0 0%
-2/+5 and up 1 0.17%
Other 54 9.11%
Voters: 593. You may not vote on this poll

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post #151 of 348 Old 12-27-2012, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmboyzx6r View Post
Skimmed most of this thread without finding much consensus. What is a better sprocket, aluminum, steel, or the aluminum with steel teeth? Also, I'm thinking either -1/0 or 0/+2 or 3. Don't really want to go all the way to -1/+2 yet. My thinking is bigger rear as it will put less bend on the chain as the smaller front. But, it's also bigger, so switch to aluminum to keep mass down if the hard anodized will last somewhere close to as long as a steel.
I run -1/+2 on the track with an aluminum rear. On the street I run -1/0 with a steel rear. Actually 0/+2 or 0/+3 would be better for the street but with -1/0 I don't have to swap the front out between street and track. Aluminum sprockets wear out QUICK. I run a hardened tool steel sprocket on my dirt bike and that would probably be best on the street as well but they are way more expensive. The reason they are better is because they can cut the mass way down and they are tough and last a long time. Or like you said, an aluminum center and tool steel outer ring/teeth. This is somewhat like the sprocket I run on my dirt bike:


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Last edited by trackdayhero; 12-27-2012 at 07:18 PM.
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post #152 of 348 Old 12-27-2012, 08:20 PM
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Thanks Hero. Right now after looking at sprockets all night, I'm leaning toward a Supersprox 0/+3 aluminum with steel teeth setup.
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post #153 of 348 Old 01-07-2013, 03:45 PM
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Ive got a question I cant seem to find a solid answer for. Im making the switch to a +16 rear stock front and dont know how many links over stock my new chain is gonna need to be. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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post #154 of 348 Old 01-07-2013, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sixcnova View Post
Ive got a question I cant seem to find a solid answer for. Im making the switch to a +16 rear stock front and dont know how many links over stock my new chain is gonna need to be. Any help is greatly appreciated!
need more info. What year is your bike?

also when buying a new chain, it usually has much more links than needed and you cut off what you don't need. You don't want to buy a chain that is exactly the amount of links you need.

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post #155 of 348 Old 01-08-2013, 08:42 AM
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You don't want to buy a chain that is exactly the amount of links you need.
That depends.

Some websites offer chain cutting service to have the chain match exactly the kit you're purchasing. I got Superlite steels and a DID ERV3 in stock configuration and the chain was cut to the exact link that I needed it. Massively easy install.

That was from Sprocket Center

I believe they would be able to set you up with a chain for a +16 rear also if you get a kit from them. Check it out. They'd prob be able to give you exact info for the links you would need if you ask as well.
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post #156 of 348 Old 01-19-2013, 07:02 PM
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-1 +2 works great
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post #157 of 348 Old 02-16-2013, 12:21 AM
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I Ride: 2011 ZX6-R
-1 +2 vortex. compared to my old cbr which was all torque this seems normal to me.

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post #158 of 348 Old 02-16-2013, 11:29 AM
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I Ride: 2006 ZX-6R
06 stock is 15/43. I liked it, but felt is was not the sweet zone. I seem to have done things a little different and subtracted 3 teeth to the rear, so i am at 15/40. smoothed out the poweband nicely and is 10 times better on freeways/highways. For sure has enough pop for a wheelie too, not that i can do em.
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post #159 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 12:29 PM
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I'm getting a new chain and sprocket as well in a week or two and had been planning on doing the -1+2 using drivens sprockets and a DID chain. My only real issue is its a 30minute ride to campus from my house and its primarily freeway does going 0+3 or 0+2 allow similar gains in acceleration without lowering the top end and thus raising the rpm at speed?

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post #160 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 05:54 PM
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If your sprockets are the same as the 04 and are 15t front, 40t rear, then every tooth you take off the front is a 6.66% trade of top speed for accel, and every tooth added to the rear is a 2.5%. I'm not saying they are the same but that's a rough guide. If you want more acceleration without losing top end your only option is to do some mods or buy a quicker bike. Nothing comes for free my friend

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post #161 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 06:01 PM
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I Ride: 2009 Triumph Daytona 675
05s are 15/433.

Obviously nothing comes without pros and cons I'm just trying to garner what the difference is since it seems as if -1+2 would be the same as -0+3 etc. I'm not worried about top end. My bike is my dd I ride year round. I'm only concerned with the few times I may take long rides to say austin that are more than a few hours which gives the best mix of better acceleration and has the least affect on top end(mainly it being buzzy at freeway speeds)

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post #162 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 06:51 PM
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Oh ok, fair enough. well ive given you the percentages on the 04 gearing and unless they really messed with the sprockets on the 05, its going to be roughly the same. There is a gearing calculator website which tells you all the figures, to be sure

Just seen the top part (I'm on my phone). Its still going to be within a percent or 2. To make it simple, the difference between +2 and +3 is minimal
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post #163 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 07:19 PM
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Ok so for each tooth down in the front you lose 6.6ish and for every tooth up in the rear you lose 2.2?

I'm assuming the if you decide to go up more in the rear and leave the front alone the amount of acceleration that you get also matches the amount of top end you lost.

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post #164 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 07:35 PM
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Yeah, its all the same. It does make a small difference in relation to engine wear because dropping a tooth on the front puts a bit more strain on the output shaft (I think), but in relation to speed, its all the same
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Ram Air Mod - Kleen Air Mod
Short Stacks Mod - MWR Filter
MHP Full Exhaust - PCIII W/Custom Map
SP Quickshifter - 2012 Shock
SS braided Lines - GPR V4 Damper
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post #165 of 348 Old 02-23-2013, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d1andonlyant View Post
Yeah, its all the same. It does make a small difference in relation to engine wear because dropping a tooth on the front puts a bit more strain on the output shaft (I think), but in relation to speed, its all the same
Ah ok. Thanks

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