Bike stalls when clutch is disengaged? - ZX6R Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 12-09-2011, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Bike stalls when clutch is disengaged?

Hey, everyone.

I was wondering if you'd help me figure out a problem that's been getting progressively worse on my bike. I've been researching the issue, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have anything to do with the kickstand switch, as many of you would probably have suggested. My bike likes to stall when I'm at cruising speeds, or pretty much any gear higher than first, when I put in the clutch lever. It's weird because the bike never does the same thing when I pull in the clutch in first, even if I have the RPM's really high before I put in the clutch. Another thing I noticed is that it doesn't do it 100% of the time, but it's getting more and more frequent, and it definitely does it more when the bike is still a little colder. I've tried messing with the throttle position screw and that doesn't make any difference, and I've also recently cleaned the carbs. I'm thinking it could be clogged jets, but wouldn't the problem be consistent through all the gears if that was the case? (doesn't stall when in first gear). Is there a fuel filter somewhere on the bike? I haven't ever seen one when I've taken mine apart.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Edit: Carbs were also recently balanced and bike idles extremely well, also starts right up with only slight choke.

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post #2 of 10 Old 12-10-2011, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Update: After riding the bike last night, it stalled for the first time when it was in first and I pulled in the clutch lever. The thing is, I can tell when it's going to happen because the RPMs drop faster than usual. This makes me think there might be some kind of faulty sensor. Is there some kind of sensor on the clutch that might be going bad?

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I think you should smurf the bullshit. 1 shot of Jim Beam, beer chaser, small line of cocaine. Repeat until you run out, die, or find the true meaning of life.
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-24-2012, 11:04 PM
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This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ….

Wrong reasons
1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time
2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.
3. GUYS! It’s not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)
4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work
5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION
Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads
---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it…depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner… Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head… Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment… As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ….as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening…Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS
1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine
2 CLICKING IN ENGINE – Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)
3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)
This must be done for the following
Yamaha YZF R6 – 24,000km
Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it’s less 16,000ish)
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-25-2012, 04:54 AM
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I hope to baby Jesus that he's got it sorted out by now. It sounds like the clutch switch.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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He was mostly right. I ended up checking my valve clearances again and they were really tight, so my valves werent closing all the way. After a new adjustment and a good carb cleaning/sync (again, but might as well since it's off) bike runs like new.

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I think you should smurf the bullshit. 1 shot of Jim Beam, beer chaser, small line of cocaine. Repeat until you run out, die, or find the true meaning of life.
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 09:37 AM
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Good first post Ranko!!

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post #7 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 03:04 PM
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It might be a side stand switch, the reason why i say that is the bike normally doesn't start if its in gear UNLESS clutch is pulled in or in Neutral. So maybe the bike thinks your side stand is down so that's why when you release the clutch it stalls? I dunno just a guess....

Previous Rides:
1992 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6 (Sold)
2008 Suzuki GSX-R750 (Sold)
2002 Honda VFR800 Interceptor (Sold)
2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14 (Sold)
2009 Yamaha R1 (RIP)
2011 Triumph Street Triple R (Sold)
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranko View Post
This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ….

Wrong reasons
1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time
2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.
3. GUYS! It’s not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)
4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work
5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION
Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads
---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it…depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner… Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head… Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment… As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ….as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening…Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS
1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine
2 CLICKING IN ENGINE – Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)
3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)
This must be done for the following
Yamaha YZF R6 – 24,000km
Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it’s less 16,000ish)

Holy tits batman, this guy came out of the gates in a hurry...

Great first post man. You are going to be a geat member here...Please stick around...

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Maybe I'm just speaking from my own personal standpoint, but my understanding is that ZX6 owners - particularly '12 owners - are incredibly intelligent, good-looking, talented, strapping brutes with large penises....
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 03:43 PM
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lol wow best first post ever
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-29-2012, 05:02 PM
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Congrats dude. Welcome to the community. Keep the good post answers coming.

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