2019 ZX6R First Mods!! Opinions needed - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-12-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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2019 ZX6R First Mods!! Opinions needed

Whats up guys. New to forums and also new to modifying bikes. Ive mainly modified cars. So basically what im looking for are some opinions on the best modifications for my 636 now that I installed the TST fender eliminator and integrated tail I want to focus on performance. I already have the Akrapovic slip on. Im thinking headers and mid pipe, servo delete, some kind of intake filter and either a Power Commander or an actual dyno tune. Im looking to just do a few modifications to gain some power and leave it at that. Again I dont have experience with modifying bikes so im mainly looking for company/brands that can provide the best performing parts. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-12-2019, 09:24 PM
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FWIW, better to invest in the weakest link in the performance chain...... The nut behind the wheel.


Take a riding course. Learn the physics of how to extract what the bike is capable of. That performance modification will last your entire lifetime.

Invest in riding gear, for when you find out that your experience is lacking..... I've got the scars to make that statement, with confidence. Almost anyone with time on a bike will experience coming off one.

If you want to mod the bike, crash protection is a smart move. A simple fall at a standstill can cost $100s to make perfect..... 5-10 mph would make that closer to $700, presuming the bike doesn't flip. You might consider gap insurance, if you have a loan..... Nothing sucks quite as much as paying for a dead horse.

0-60 in <3 seconds, isn't fast enough?. Near 150 top speed inadequate?

Spend your money on track days, if you have to squeeze out as much performance as possible.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-12-2019, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
FWIW, better to invest in the weakest link in the performance chain...... The nut behind the wheel.


Take a riding course. Learn the physics of how to extract what the bike is capable of. That performance modification will last your entire lifetime.

Invest in riding gear, for when you find out that your experience is lacking..... I've got the scars to make that statement, with confidence. Almost anyone with time on a bike will experience coming off one.

If you want to mod the bike, crash protection is a smart move. A simple fall at a standstill can cost $100s to make perfect..... 5-10 mph would make that closer to $700, presuming the bike doesn't flip. You might consider gap insurance, if you have a loan..... Nothing sucks quite as much as paying for a dead horse.

0-60 in <3 seconds, isn't fast enough?. Near 150 top speed inadequate?

Spend your money on track days, if you have to squeeze out as much performance as possible.

0.02
+1 on this

If you get those bolt on parts and a dyno tune, its going to cost you a few thousand bucks. For what you are paying you're really not getting much. Maybe 10-15 more hp, and it will sound a little cooler? If you want more hp, get a 1000(don't actually get one, you don't need that either).
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-13-2019, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zx6rguiy View Post
+1 on this

If you get those bolt on parts and a dyno tune, its going to cost you a few thousand bucks. For what you are paying you're really not getting much. Maybe 10-15 more hp, and it will sound a little cooler? If you want more hp, get a 1000(don't actually get one, you don't need that either).
I forgot to mention this isn't my first bike. I have had multiple just never had interest in doing any modifications. I have gear as well and not a beginner behind the wheel. Obviously im not trying to be as fast as a 1000 but just looking to get a little more power and torque. If certain mods aren't worth it then ill steer clear of them.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-13-2019, 02:03 PM
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Ergos. Rearsets and clip ons.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-13-2019, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 19ZX View Post
If certain mods aren't worth it then ill steer clear of them.
A gearing change and a quick turn throttle kit will make the bike feel incredibly fast for a fraction of the price of the full system/fuel controller route. I would say do that first and if that's not enough, then you can start shelling out cash.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-13-2019, 05:07 PM
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Getting the suspension set up for your weight is another area that is often overlooked..... cheap and effective.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-13-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
Getting the suspension set up for your weight is another area that is often overlooked..... cheap and effective.
Definitely first on the list. I have a local guy that will set it up for $50!
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-14-2019, 04:22 AM
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I vote for keeping the slip on ,as is, if this is a street bike. You can gut the stock header yourself in the future and add a link pipe to eliminate the “box” if you choose and you’ll have a sweet 3/4 system. (I did this to my 2012 and it requires a tune immediately bc it was shooting big red )
Either way you’ll need a tune this way will save you some coin and will net almost similar gains.




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post #10 of 11 Unread 08-16-2019, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19ZX View Post
Definitely first on the list. I have a local guy that will set it up for $50!
Don't pay someone $50 to set your suspension, set it yourself! Spend a week and subscribe to Dave Moss Tuning. A couple hours a day for 5 days and now you can set up your own bike as your riding progresses. This will pay off dividends if you do track days as it will not only make you safer/faster, but will save you $ on tires! You can set a base setup with a friend in 5 minutes tops and then adjust as the tires tell you to adjust. (sag and static sag as well as compression/rebound you can do yourself/with a friend after watching Dave for a couple hours)

Unless you really have substantial amounts of extra $ laying around, there is no reason to do any performance mods on the 636. If you are trying to drag race a Turbo-Busa down the interstate, you picked the wrong bike. I put a slip-on on mine because I want to be able to hear my bike while I have a straight piped 400 passing me on the outside at the track. Get better brakes!

Mods I have done to my 636 in the order I did them:
1) Dunlop Q3+ stock front and 190/55 rear
2) OneDesign Tank Grips
3) 2 Bros Slip On (with P1X tip to regain power and lower sound a bit)
4) Vortex rear sets (HIGHLY RECOMMEND)
5) Woodcraft frame sliders
6) Woodcraft spool sliders
7) EBC HH front brake pads (imo no reason to upgrade rear until I get a lot better at not locking it up under hard braking)
8) Front/Rear SS brake lines
9) Fully adjustable levers

Wish list:
1) Dunlop GPA-Pros along with a second set of wheels (DOT Race Tires for track days)
2) Lithium battery (for weight loss)
3) Motion Pro Throttle Tube (less rotation for full throttle *AS I GET BETTER WITH THROTTLE CONTROL)
4) Clip-ons, this should probably be #1 because ERGO's is #1!
5) I can keep going with this list for days, but will stop here.

At the end of the day, I can not recommend rearsets enough, especially vortex. Being able to set the shift lever and rear brake lever to EXACTLY where you want it as well as putting your knees/legs where they need to be on the tank is crucial.

Congratz on the new bike!
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post #11 of 11 Unread 08-16-2019, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhpiper View Post
Don't pay someone $50 to set your suspension, set it yourself! Spend a week and subscribe to Dave Moss Tuning. A couple hours a day for 5 days and now you can set up your own bike as your riding progresses. This will pay off dividends if you do track days as it will not only make you safer/faster, but will save you $ on tires! You can set a base setup with a friend in 5 minutes tops and then adjust as the tires tell you to adjust. (sag and static sag as well as compression/rebound you can do yourself/with a friend after watching Dave for a couple hours)

Unless you really have substantial amounts of extra $ laying around, there is no reason to do any performance mods on the 636. If you are trying to drag race a Turbo-Busa down the interstate, you picked the wrong bike. I put a slip-on on mine because I want to be able to hear my bike while I have a straight piped 400 passing me on the outside at the track. Get better brakes!

Mods I have done to my 636 in the order I did them:
1) Dunlop Q3+ stock front and 190/55 rear
2) OneDesign Tank Grips
3) 2 Bros Slip On (with P1X tip to regain power and lower sound a bit)
4) Vortex rear sets (HIGHLY RECOMMEND)
5) Woodcraft frame sliders
6) Woodcraft spool sliders
7) EBC HH front brake pads (imo no reason to upgrade rear until I get a lot better at not locking it up under hard braking)
8) Front/Rear SS brake lines
9) Fully adjustable levers

Wish list:
1) Dunlop GPA-Pros along with a second set of wheels (DOT Race Tires for track days)
2) Lithium battery (for weight loss)
3) Motion Pro Throttle Tube (less rotation for full throttle *AS I GET BETTER WITH THROTTLE CONTROL)
4) Clip-ons, this should probably be #1 because ERGO's is #1!
5) I can keep going with this list for days, but will stop here.

At the end of the day, I can not recommend rearsets enough, especially vortex. Being able to set the shift lever and rear brake lever to EXACTLY where you want it as well as putting your knees/legs where they need to be on the tank is crucial.

Congratz on the new bike!


I generally agree with Dhpiper, RJ & DJ the most. The weak link in all this bliss is the wingnut behind the clip-ons.

In a word, or more Track days. Track days. Track days! And I would suggest going to track days by different companies... You will get a slightly different spin, that often results in a myriad of A-hah moments... All so very cool when it happens to you .

Lest we fail to acknowledge, the Siren's Song of Seduction for those of us that go down the Modder's Tunnel of Love: creating a bike that doesn't look just like 10,000 other KAWASAKI NINJAS. We succumb. We delight. We fashion our unique vision of the perfect sportbike for each of us.

Ergonomics ought to rule the day for your bike. Make no mistake, the key is for the bike to fit you, and not the opposite. My first exchanges are: fully adjustable rearsets (I've sworn by Rizoma for decades). If the brand you choose does not come with folding toes pegs visit:
https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...oe-piece-black

And whilst you're snooping around check out their other goodies for the midi-Ninja;
Axle/Fork sliders, https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...d=p7547-c23522

Bar end, sliders:https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...0End%20Sliders

Engine case guards: https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc.../engine-covers

Frame sliders, https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...id=p1438-c2803

Swing arm lifter & Spools: https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...d=p9249-c23756

I go so far as to design & have a custom saddle with a gel insert made for me .

As for rider comfort fully adjustable clip-ons are a virtual God-send, I am extremely pleased with my Speedy Moto Omni Bars; one of the single best purchases .
https://www.speedymoto.com/products/...ars/omni-bars/

As for the bike portion: Go with a BMC Air filter. DynoJet PC-V, along with that I strongly subscribe to using their Auto Tune. This allows you to custom tune your bike taking the place of a dyno tune.

Exhaust of your choice. I'm happy with my Yoshimura R-77. I'm not gonna say more because that's a helluva rabbit hole I don't choose to fall into.

After that, remove your ECU and send it off to Schnitz Racing and have them reflash your CPU. And whilst you are at it, have them disable your PAIR & EVSM... all for under $100. You'll need to get a set of blockoff plates. And shit-can the servo cabbles, charcoal canister, & misc. hoses and other assorted gubbins at the cam cover, etc. Your bike will feel like it had a colon cleansing!
https://store.schnitzracing.com/schn...ki-zx6r-13-18/.

This has been quite a lot of info for now. Whilst it's a small part of my Siren's Song of Seduction, I'd find a way - sooner, rather than later - to massively improve the braking of the Ninja. Mine is as follows: Core Moto Rear Brake line; Front Brake lines; BrakeTech 220mm Full-Floating Rear AXIS/Cobra Rotor; 310mm Full-Floating Front AXIS/Cobra Rotors; Galespeed VRC Variable Lever Ratio Control Master Cylinder, 16-18 ratio w/folding lever; Clutch Perch, 32-34 ratio w/folding lever; and front & rear Carbone Lorraine brake pads... For track use, I swap to Vesrah pads. Note: before swapping out to the Vesrah pads, and swapping back to the Carbone Lorraine for street use I remove the three rotors and use a brake hone and a hand drill to re-surface the rotors for proper bed-in.

You will surely ("don't call me Shirley") have Qs. Don't hesitate to ask, the is a wealth of institutional knowledge on this Forum. Most are eager to assist. Do take pictures as your project progresses.

C8H10N4O2
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