Don't pay someone $50 to set your suspension, set it yourself! Spend a week and subscribe to Dave Moss Tuning. A couple hours a day for 5 days and now you can set up your own bike as your riding progresses. This will pay off dividends if you do track days as it will not only make you safer/faster, but will save you $ on tires! You can set a base setup with a friend in 5 minutes tops and then adjust as the tires tell you to adjust. (sag and static sag as well as compression/rebound you can do yourself/with a friend after watching Dave for a couple hours)
Unless you really have substantial amounts of extra $ laying around, there is no reason to do any performance mods on the 636. If you are trying to drag race a Turbo-Busa down the interstate, you picked the wrong bike. I put a slip-on on mine because I want to be able to hear my bike while I have a straight piped 400 passing me on the outside at the track. Get better brakes!
Mods I have done to my 636 in the order I did them:
1) Dunlop Q3+ stock front and 190/55 rear
2) OneDesign Tank Grips
3) 2 Bros Slip On (with P1X tip to regain power and lower sound a bit)
4) Vortex rear sets (HIGHLY RECOMMEND)
5) Woodcraft frame sliders
6) Woodcraft spool sliders
7) EBC HH front brake pads (imo no reason to upgrade rear until I get a lot better at not locking it up under hard braking)
8) Front/Rear SS brake lines
9) Fully adjustable levers
1) Dunlop GPA-Pros along with a second set of wheels (DOT Race Tires for track days)
2) Lithium battery (for weight loss)
3) Motion Pro Throttle Tube (less rotation for full throttle *AS I GET BETTER WITH THROTTLE CONTROL)
4) Clip-ons, this should probably be #1 because ERGO's is #1!
5) I can keep going with this list for days, but will stop here.
At the end of the day, I can not recommend rearsets enough, especially vortex. Being able to set the shift lever and rear brake lever to EXACTLY where you want it as well as putting your knees/legs where they need to be on the tank is crucial.
Congratz on the new bike!
I generally agree with Dhpiper, RJ & DJ
the most. The weak link in all this bliss is the wingnut behind the clip-ons.
In a word, or more Track days. Track days. Track days!
And I would suggest going to track days by different companies... You will get a slightly different spin, that often results in a myriad of A-hah moments
... All so very cool when it happens to you
Lest we fail to acknowledge, the Siren's Song of Seduction
for those of us that go down the Modder's Tunnel of Love
: creating a bike that doesn't look just like 10,000 other KAWASAKI NINJAS. We succumb. We delight. We fashion our unique vision of the perfect sportbike for each of us.
Ergonomics ought to rule the day for your bike. Make no mistake, the key is for the bike to fit you, and not the opposite. My first exchanges are: fully adjustable rearsets (I've sworn by Rizoma
for decades). If the brand you choose does not come with folding toes pegs
And whilst you're snooping around check out their other goodies for the midi-Ninja; Axle/Fork sliders
, https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...d=p7547-c23522 Bar end
, sliders:https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...0End%20Sliders Engine case guards
: https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc.../engine-covers Frame sliders
, https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/produc...id=p1438-c2803 Swing arm lifter & Spools
I go so far as to design & have a custom saddle with a gel insert made for me
As for rider comfort fully adjustable clip-ons are a virtual God-send, I am extremely pleased with my Speedy Moto Omni Bars
; one of the single best purchases
As for the bike portion: Go with a BMC
Air filter. DynoJet PC-V
, along with that I strongly subscribe to using their Auto Tune
. This allows you to custom tune your bike taking the place of a dyno tune.
Exhaust of your choice. I'm happy with my Yoshimura R-77
. I'm not gonna say more because that's a helluva rabbit hole I don't choose to fall into.
After that, remove your ECU and send it off to Schnitz Racing
and have them reflash your CPU. And whilst you are at it, have them disable your PAIR & EVSM... all for under $100. You'll need to get a set of blockoff plates. And shit-can the servo cabbles, charcoal canister, & misc. hoses and other assorted gubbins at the cam cover, etc. Your bike will feel like it had a colon cleansing! https://store.schnitzracing.com/schn...ki-zx6r-13-18/
This has been quite a lot of info for now. Whilst it's a small part of my Siren's Song of Seduction
, I'd find a way - sooner, rather than later - to massively improve the braking of the Ninja. Mine is as follows: Core Moto
Rear Brake line; Front Brake lines; BrakeTech
220mm Full-Floating Rear AXIS/Cobra Rotor; 310mm Full-Floating Front AXIS/Cobra Rotors; Galespeed VRC Variable Lever Ratio Control
Master Cylinder, 16-18 ratio w/folding lever; Clutch Perch, 32-34 ratio w/folding lever; and front & rear Carbone Lorraine
brake pads... For track use, I swap to Vesrah
pads. Note: before swapping out to the Vesrah
pads, and swapping back to the Carbone Lorraine
for street use I remove the three rotors and use a brake hone and a hand drill to re-surface the rotors for proper bed-in.
You will surely ("don't call me Shirley") have Qs. Don't hesitate to ask, the is a wealth of institutional knowledge on this Forum. Most are eager to assist. Do take pictures as your project progresses.