General Maintenance/Advice/Tips; - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-21-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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General Maintenance/Advice/Tips;

Hey guys, first post and new to the forum. Just recently purchased a 2005 ZX6R and its had a few 21 and under owners. Looking for some guidance as to any common issues on the 2005-2006 platform, good general maintenance, etc... I've already replaced fuel pump hose and ECU (known issues when I purchased the bike), and changed the oil. Bike has around 15,700, and its rode daily. This is my first bike I've owned, and just want to make sure it last and stays safe. I am a mechanic, so should be able to handle most, if not all issues. Any extra knowledge would be appreciated greatly.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-21-2019, 05:27 PM
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Welcome.

The biggest bugaboo with that year seems to be the ECU..... it is in a low airflow area, and can overheat. Once it starts to fail, it does not recover. If the bike is stock, it may not have fried the ECU. If it's got mods that increase the heat in the exhaust it may be on it's way out.

Best thing you could do is download the shop manual, and perform all of the time related scheduled maintenance. Coolant, wheel bearings, swingarm pivots, suspension fluid..... go through the thing with a fine toothed comb and clear up any electrical gremlins that will have been added by those 20 somethings.....
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-21-2019, 07:58 PM
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What RJ said. If you donít have receipts for work performed, assume it hasnít been done. Go through the scheduled maintance in the owners manual, and work through everything until itís all done.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 08:22 AM
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Valve adjustment !!!!! It is definitely due for a complete tune up

and being 13 years old and likely abused and neglected all its life........ I would disassemble completely and clean and lube every lubeable parts (all suspension linkages, steering head bearings, cables, pivot points- everything!!!)
I would clean all the electrical connectors including all the grounds
I would check charging system output and battery
flush/change all the fluids
look over closely the brakes, pads and change fluid
chain and sprockets
tires?
Absolutely everything needs to be gone over with a fine tooth comb
Then and only then do you have a base starting point to start from and move forward with for years of trouble free fun enjoyable riding experience.........

( I do not see the ecu issue much up here in ice country......but heat is an ecu's enemy, so so heat tape between the exhaust and the underpan works wonders)

something like this is what I do for my customers..........




Here is a list of approximately what all is done as the list varies slightly between models. This service is the most complete care you can get. I do the entire list in the service manual and so much more.

Valve adjustment: I have over 13,000 shims on hand to make them all perfect. No "close-enough" attitude. This is the same professional precision I bring to every valve adjustment I do. Each valve will be adjusted to within .0005" of what clearance is desired, generally dead center in the allowable range.

Inspect: Cam lobes, cam chain, cam sprockets and cam chain tensioner, always cleaning the tensioner for close inspection, and numerous tensioners get the shaft polished.

Throttle body or carburetor synchronization are adjusted to as close as perfect as I can get them.

Idle fuel mixture is adjusted whenever possible.

Suspension linkages are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and lubed.

Swing arm is removed and the bearings are cleaned and lubed as is the swing arm pivot bolt.

Steering head bearings removed, (lower bearing is left on the triple stem) cleaned, properly lubed with waterproof grease and adjusted- some bikes is it more prudent to just replace with good tapered roller bearings.

Fork oil is changed, including the damper rod/cartridge, which means complete disassembly and cleaning, new seals and often new bushings will be installed.

All pivot bushings including the shifter pedal, rear brake pedal, brake and clutch lever pivot pins and bushings, shifter linkage arm and rear brake arm are removed cleaned and properly lubed.

Foot pegs are removed, cleaned and pins lubed.

All the cables; throttle, clutch, choke, speedometer and exhaust servo, if so equipped, are pressure lubed and adjusted.

Brake pad pins are removed, cleaned and lubed. Albeit very lightly. The brake pistons are also cleaned as are the sealed slider pins on such calipers

Sensors are electronically checked and adjusted whenever needed/possible. (there are about 10 on modern bikes)

TPS (throttle position sensor) adjusted.

Exhaust valve, if so equipped, is adjusted and these cables are power lubed as well.

Counter balancer(s) adjustment when applicable.

Wheels are removed for proper checking and lubricating of all the wheel bearings. Some have metal shields and are not accessible, but the vast majority are rubber shielded and serviceable.

Axles are cleaned and lubed.

Brake/clutch fluids are flushed completely. Brake caliper and axle pinch bolts are all anti seized and properly torqued as applicable.

Electrical connectors are checked, cleaned and protected. The charging system connections are cleaned and output is also inspected.

Oil and filter are changed.

Spark plugs are changed with properly gapped plugs.

Air filter is cleaned/replaced as needed.

Battery is removed and serviced. Non-sealed batteries may be topped off with distilled water.

Whichever final drive system your bike has, it is taken care of. Chain is cleaned, adjusted and lubed or the final drive fluid is changed. The splines on shaft drive bikes are cleaned and lubed. The drive belt is inspected and adjusted/replaced if so warranted.

Oil pressure and fuel pressure/output is checked when possible.

All the lights, horn etc. are all checked as well.

Fuel filter cleaned or replaced when applicable, including the in tank fuel pump screen when applicable

You of course get a whole slew of pictures of the work as well. The list is long and varies slightly between different bikes but it is very extensive, not to mention time consuming. At some point during this service your motorcycle will basically be a frame and an engine- it is that comprehensive of service. On average this takes about 15-20 hours to do one bike.

Fuel injectors; these can be flow tested and cleaned for approximately $120 additional to any tune up cost. Unfortunately this takes about 5 day turn around time as I send these out to an injector specialist shop in Florida.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 09:44 AM
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05/06 were known for having the 2nd and 3rd gears in the transmission go bad and cause it to jump out of gear under acceleration.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information and tips guys. I've already replaced the ECU, fuel hose, and gone through every inch of wiring that looked suspect or modified. I believe the sprocket and chain are pretty much toast. Lot of slippage on higher RPM'S and under hard throttle. No motor work has been done as of yet, but I too believe it's due. I'll be the first to admit I ride the bike like it's a 1,000cc plus, but I try to stay up with maintenance in the process.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 12:13 PM
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Make sure the chain is actually slipping and not just out of adjustment. And make sure its not the transmission issue I mentioned. It feels about the same.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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It does the most noticeable slipping in 1-3. Or if I throttle down and drop a gear, its almost certain to do it. I'm gonna try tensioning it up some more first before I look into getting the transmission cracked open. Issue is that the bike will spin the 1-3 pretty easy, which leads me to believe it's not stock. That being said, it's hard to differentiate the two sometimes.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-23-2019, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFennell92 View Post
It does the most noticeable slipping in 1-3. Or if I throttle down and drop a gear, its almost certain to do it. I'm gonna try tensioning it up some more first before I look into getting the transmission cracked open. Issue is that the bike will spin the 1-3 pretty easy, which leads me to believe it's not stock. That being said, it's hard to differentiate the two sometimes.
Take pics of the sprockets. Start with the most obvious, and work towards the most difficult.

Sprockets, then clutch.

Clutch could be due to an unfortunate selection of brand/grade of oil. Could be adjusted incorrectly. Could be worn out. Adjust, then change oil, then tear down/inspect.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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