Headlight Options - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 25 Old 02-22-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ZXer View Post
What about Water and Dust (along with little insects)? It's bright, but the light pattern isn't as good as OEM.

I was told to the Sylvania Super Bright H7 - works well.

I have an extra pair, if you need one.

Thanks man are you running these?
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post #17 of 25 Old 02-22-2019, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Newyork View Post
HIDs will be brighter, and you wonít have to cut anything. There is more wiring tho so thatís the drawback.

Www.theretrofitsource.com is where I get my lighting.




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+1 I also used a kit from them. A little over a year so far and still running strong.

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post #18 of 25 Old 02-23-2019, 04:47 AM
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OP,

For the money, it's hard to beat the amount of light you can get with HID. The price of these things has come down so much it's pretty hard to believe.

If you do decide to go the route of HID, please consider limiting yourself to the 35W setups rather than the 55W.

The way HID work is exactly like any other florescent bulb..... there is a ballast that has to charge to a high voltage to make the arc in the bulb. Once the arc has happened a number of times, the gas remains energized enough that it doesn't take a lot of power to make it arc again. Until then, the HID uses far more power than the number stated on the literature. 3-5 times as much, for some number of seconds as it warms up. One 35W HID is going to draw about the same power as both OEM 55W halogen bulbs would, for that start up period. The electrical engineers at Kawasaki designed the charging system with that much load in mind. Should last the life of the bike.

2 35W bulbs place some strain on the charging system if you start them at the same time. 55W bulbs, single or double, definitely put some stress on the charging system.

This is an issue for a motorcycle charging system, as there is very little excess power available. The power all comes from the alternator, and any excess gets stored in the battery for future use up to the point where the battery is fully charged. Because sport bikes are as light as possible, the margin is even thinner here, than it is with touring machines and the like.

When you hear about people having to replace the stator, that's almost always due to drawing more power than the bike can make. Whatever the HID may need, the battery will loan out. The budget has to be balanced by the alternator, which has to work harder, to replenish the charge. The alternator is made of two parts. The rotor, and the stator. The stator is static..... sits in one place. As the ends of the rotor pass it, the magnetic lines of force shove electrons off the wires in the stator windings. That is where the current flow comes from. It isn't without some work being done, which results in heat being generated in the windings.

The only way for the stator to cool off, is to pass that heat to the engine oil that is splashed around on the windings by the rotor. The oil falls back to the bottom of the case, and then gets returned to the pan/pump/lube system. The hardest part of the stator to cool, is the point furthest away from the bottom. Heat rises, gravity drains the oil away from that point the most..... it stays hotter longer. The stator fails due to the melting of the insulation between the windings on the poles. As the insulation melts, the wires short together.... that makes that part of the winding produce less current. The demand doesn't change so the alternator has to keep producing power anyway, but now it has to do it for a longer period of time..... which means it gets even hotter, which melts more insulation, etc., etc.
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post #19 of 25 Old 02-23-2019, 06:44 AM
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Thanks man appreciate it! Where on LI you from?!
No problem, I live in Bay Shore you on the island too?

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post #20 of 25 Old 02-23-2019, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mlsracer View Post
+1 I also used a kit from them. A little over a year so far and still running strong.

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They offer a 5 Year warranty on all parts of the kits...I had a bulb go out and they had me send them the old one and shipped me out a new one. I learned from that and keep an extra bulb on deck now.
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post #21 of 25 Old 02-24-2019, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
OP,

For the money, it's hard to beat the amount of light you can get with HID. The price of these things has come down so much it's pretty hard to believe.

If you do decide to go the route of HID, please consider limiting yourself to the 35W setups rather than the 55W.

The way HID work is exactly like any other florescent bulb..... there is a ballast that has to charge to a high voltage to make the arc in the bulb. Once the arc has happened a number of times, the gas remains energized enough that it doesn't take a lot of power to make it arc again. Until then, the HID uses far more power than the number stated on the literature. 3-5 times as much, for some number of seconds as it warms up. One 35W HID is going to draw about the same power as both OEM 55W halogen bulbs would, for that start up period. The electrical engineers at Kawasaki designed the charging system with that much load in mind. Should last the life of the bike.

2 35W bulbs place some strain on the charging system if you start them at the same time. 55W bulbs, single or double, definitely put some stress on the charging system.

This is an issue for a motorcycle charging system, as there is very little excess power available. The power all comes from the alternator, and any excess gets stored in the battery for future use up to the point where the battery is fully charged. Because sport bikes are as light as possible, the margin is even thinner here, than it is with touring machines and the like.

When you hear about people having to replace the stator, that's almost always due to drawing more power than the bike can make. Whatever the HID may need, the battery will loan out. The budget has to be balanced by the alternator, which has to work harder, to replenish the charge. The alternator is made of two parts. The rotor, and the stator. The stator is static..... sits in one place. As the ends of the rotor pass it, the magnetic lines of force shove electrons off the wires in the stator windings. That is where the current flow comes from. It isn't without some work being done, which results in heat being generated in the windings.

The only way for the stator to cool off, is to pass that heat to the engine oil that is splashed around on the windings by the rotor. The oil falls back to the bottom of the case, and then gets returned to the pan/pump/lube system. The hardest part of the stator to cool, is the point furthest away from the bottom. Heat rises, gravity drains the oil away from that point the most..... it stays hotter longer. The stator fails due to the melting of the insulation between the windings on the poles. As the insulation melts, the wires short together.... that makes that part of the winding produce less current. The demand doesn't change so the alternator has to keep producing power anyway, but now it has to do it for a longer period of time..... which means it gets even hotter, which melts more insulation, etc., etc.
Awesome thanks for all the info and explaining how all that works appreciate it!

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Originally Posted by Newyork View Post
No problem, I live in Bay Shore you on the island too?
Oh nice man! I was born out in Suffolk Holtsville/Farmingville area then moved to Bellmore over in Nassau but im stationed down in Florida now.
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post #22 of 25 Old 02-24-2019, 09:03 PM
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HID projector retrofit ftw
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post #23 of 25 Old 02-25-2019, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by laggy311 View Post
HID projector retrofit ftw
Seconded. If done correctly (retrofit projectors, wire it nicely, so no crappy splices, etc) itís awesome, at least in my experience. Definitely more expensive, and cracking open the headlight lenses can be nerve wracking, if itís your first time. But I have an awesome light pattern, it doesnít blind other drivers on low, and on high beam, I call it ďThe DaybringerĒ. So far, zero reliability issues, on a bike thatís parked outside, in the Houston area, and daily ridden in whatever weather happens to be present.
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post #24 of 25 Old 02-25-2019, 08:29 PM
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^^ what he said ^^
Single best upgrade for a street bike.
The headlight part isnít even that a big deal really once you do it one time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildCard View Post
Well, that's gayer than two dudes fucking in a miata while crew licks their assholes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by capitalcrew View Post
@riverszzr You let me know how girly my knuckles are when I slip em past your anus bub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurbineTech View Post
You can't not partake in the 23 flavors once thou hast suckled from the teat of the big gulp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ey3l45h View Post
That thread is gayer than cum on a mustache
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpi0 View Post
I dont like to read. I just have opinions and assume theyre correct.
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post #25 of 25 Old 03-02-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16Stealth636 View Post
Hey guys looking for some input on a better bulb for the head lights since they're terrible. I see the bulb size is H7-55W can this simple be replaced with an LED bulb that will fit that size? Sorry if this is a dumb question I have never replaced bulbs on a bike before. I have used LASFIT bulbs and they are great quality and extremely bright which is what I am leaning towards. Thanks in advance for any input.
I put 35wats hids for low and high beam and 164 led bulb for the running lights and adjusted the cutoff becuase from factory it sucks and i love it.
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