lAST SEASON I ADDED THIS TO MY 09’ ZX6r. I LOVE THE EXTRA TORQUE AND WOULD HATE TO LOSE IT ! ......HOWEVER .....WHEN I AM ON THE HWY OR INTERSTATE (EVEN GOING THE SPEED LIMIT) MY BIKE SOUNDS LIKE IT IS WORKING *SO HARD* AS THE RPM’S RUN SO MUCH HIGHER ! SO I PRETTY MUCH HAVE AVOIDED RIDING WITH MY FRIENDS WHO LIKE TO GO ON MINI ROAD TRIPS (LIKE AN HOUR OR 2) BECAUSE I DONT WANT TO WORK THE SHIT OUT OF MY ENGINE CRUISING AT THOSE HIGH RPM’S FOR AN STRAIGHT HOUR OR 2 ! SO A FEW PEOPLE HAVE TOLD ME THAT I AM TRIPPING AND THESE BIKES LOVE TO RIDE IN THE HIGHER RPMS . SO MY QUESTION IS AM I TRIPPING BY THINKING IF I GET OUT ON THE HIGHWAY WITH THIS SETUP NEXT SEASON AND QUIT AVOIDING HOURS ON THE INTERSTATE AND JUST RIDE OUT WITH EVERYONE ELSE THAT I AM ABUSING MY ENGINE AND THAT THIS IS REALLY HARD ON MY BIKE ? ? ? PLEASE AND THANKYOU, MUCH APPRECIATED
I was just thinking that we hadn't heard from tHUG in quite a while.....
-1 / +2 should only raise RPM less than 1,000 for any given road speed in any gear.....
If you can do near 60 MPH in first on OEM gearing, and hit redline at 50 instead, the same less than 10% change is happening in every other gear. Yes your engine is revving up 10% more, all the time you're running along. You're burning 10% more fuel, too.
These things will run forever if they stay below 13 or 14K RPM. 5, 6, 7, 8K on a multiple hour basis wouldn't be hard on the motor. Fresh oil, good valve clearances make all the difference.
I have -1 +2 and hate it for the street. If I wasn't going to track only this year I would go back to just a -1. The extra revs won't hurt the bike, but I agree once up around 70 the extra revs get real annoying and very noticeable.
I was just thinking that we hadn't heard from tHUG in quite a while.....
-1 / +2 should only raise RPM less than 1,000 for any given road speed in any gear.....
If you can do near 60 MPH in first on OEM gearing, and hit redline at 50 instead, the same less than 10% change is happening in every other gear. Yes your engine is revving up 10% more, all the time you're running along. You're burning 10% more fuel, too.
These things will run forever if they stay below 13 or 14K RPM. 5, 6, 7, 8K on a multiple hour basis wouldn't be hard on the motor. Fresh oil, good valve clearances make all the difference.
I have -1 +2 and hate it for the street. If I wasn't going to track only this year I would go back to just a -1. The extra revs won't hurt the bike, but I agree once up around 70 the extra revs get real annoying and very noticeable.
Your tripping those bikes love to ride like that . They are really sports bikes for a reason so if your an aggressive rider and your not just cruising all the time it should be fine . Well really should be fine either way but your bike is made to run like a beast lol
I'd bet that these engines can turn 10K RPM indefinitely. The OEM redline, at somewhere around 13K, means 10K is roughly 60% of the maximum of a run of the mill, 'average' zx6 engine. Durability increases in a huge way with every -5% from maximum. -15% more than doubles the mtbf. Being more than 30% down from max, is a very, very minor impact on engine life.
Whacking the throttle to the stop, in neutral will do far more damage.
Not adjusting the valve clearances on schedule........ Much more likely to cause problems.
- A Yamaha R3 which has a twin cylinder 320cc engine where each cylinder is about the same size as my newly acquired 2005 ZX-6R, comes the from the factory with gearing that yields 6100 rpm at 60 mph, and owners do this all day every day, some of them commuting to and from work on freeways, and others going touring! No issues.
- I have performance modeling software on my computer and model every bike I am interested in. For the 2005 ZX-6R, the 14T (ie. -1) countershaft sprocket with 46T (i.e. +3) rear sprocket, gives 5839 rpm at 60 mph. And, it drops the 0 to 60 time by about 3 tenths and the quarter mile time just shy of 10.00 seconds (if you have a good rider and an electric shifter). However, wheelie control and rear tire spin may be an issue for a non-pro rider.
Note that the 5839 rpm at 60 mph is:
- using an OEM sized tire (ACTUAL size, not just rated size)
- TRUE rpm and TRUE road speed. Production motorcycles generally read higher than actual on both tachometer and speedometer, for product liability reasons and warranty claim reduction reasons. My own ZX-6R has the tachometer and speedometer both lying in false agreement (i..e the tach appears to back up the speedometer's optimistic speed reading) but both highway radar signs and GPS on board the bike say they are simply orchestarted liars.
So, the OP's -1 and +2 combo strikes me as "reasonable", and yeah, it sharpens acceleration "notably".
It may have been previously mentioned and I apologize for missing but do the 13+ measure speed/mileage off the transmission or the front wheel?
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