one turn signal out....why - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 11-20-2018, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation one turn signal out....why

hey there forum members, well i just ordered some aftermarket led turn signals for my bike. and installed them. as well as a flasher relay and all the lights work except the front left turn signal. So i tested the light and it worked on the right side of the bike. so i know the actual led signal works but when i wire it up on the left side of the bike it wont work. any ideas as to what it might be?? this would be on a 2001 zx6r. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks! (Just to add that the left turn signal was not working even before the new turn signals and relay)

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post #2 of 27 Old 11-20-2018, 06:32 PM
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If you have a multimeter, you would be able to get to the bottom of that pretty quickly.

You either have a problem with the positive or negative lead...... you know it's not the bulb as it wasn't working before and the LED works on the opposite side.

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post #3 of 27 Old 11-21-2018, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
If you have a multimeter, you would be able to get to the bottom of that pretty quickly.

You either have a problem with the positive or negative lead...... you know it's not the bulb as it wasn't working before and the LED works on the opposite side.
what kind of reading should i be getting when checking the wires? I lack experience when it comes to this kind of stuff. (that's what she said)
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post #4 of 27 Old 11-21-2018, 06:37 PM
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what kind of reading should i be getting when checking the wires? I lack experience when it comes to this kind of stuff. (that's what she said)
The negative wire should have continuity to the frame/ground. The positive wire should cycle 12v on and off when u have that blinker on.

Do u know how to use a multimeter to check that stuff?
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post #5 of 27 Old 11-21-2018, 11:05 PM
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Continuity is measured in Ohms (resistance). A low number is better. Yoau want as close to zero as the meter will measure between the negative contact of the blinker socket and the negative battery terminal. Scorpi0 is right, this is typically the same as checking to the frame...... With aluminum frames rather than steel, you need to validate the complete path rather than part way.

Check resistance with power OFF.

Voltage is measured on a 'live' circuit. Power ON.


The meter has to be in DC Volts mode to make this measurement.

Red lead positive, black negative. (That doesn't matter so much, just means you get a plus or minus symbol with your reading, indicating the polarity --- is + really +?) A standard filament bulb doesn't care which way the flow of current goes.... LED lights, do. Black lead on the negative terminal of the battery, when you measure to the negative contact of the socket with the red lead, you should always see zero volts (much less than one Volt).

The positive contact of the blinker socket should also read zero, with power on, until you switch the blinker on. Without the bulb to complete the circuit, the reading should go to a steady ~12 Volts. The number should be very close to the value between the battery terminals.... Within a few tenths of a Volt, likely slightly lower. 12.2, compared to 12.3 at the battery as an example.

If the wires are whole/complete, that's what should be happening. A broken wire, 'opens' the circuit same as a switch does. Where the break occurs will change what readings you get.

Let us know what you measure.
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post #6 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 05:33 AM
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RJ...I think u just confused the fuck out of this dude lol.
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post #7 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 07:23 AM
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RJ...I think u just confused the fuck out of this dude lol.
It's a possibility....

Hopefully not; electrical stuff is only hard because you can't see it first hand. Once you get a handle on the principals, it's fairly straightforward.
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post #8 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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It's a possibility....

Hopefully not; electrical stuff is only hard because you can't see it first hand. Once you get a handle on the principals, it's fairly straightforward.
I guess i will need to have some patience with this process. So from what i understand it could be a broken wire, a wire grounding, or loose connection. Dang it bobby.
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post #9 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 10:38 AM
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Pretty much the only three options for why the light won't illuminate. Either the power can't get to the bulb, or it can get to the bulb, but not back to the battery after it goes through the switch.

Another question..... does the rear turn signal on that side work as it should?

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post #10 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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@RJ2112 .... yes the rear lights work and so do the rear turn signals.
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post #11 of 27 Old 11-22-2018, 12:19 PM
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Then it's definitely the wiring going to the front left signal.....

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post #12 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the help guys, will post back with my finding
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post #13 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 03:53 PM
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If you want to find where the fault is, work your way from the blinker unit towards the front indicator. There has to be at least one wire that goes from the blinker to the indicator (bulb socket). You can prove this by using your multimeter..
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post #14 of 27 Old 11-23-2018, 05:28 PM
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post #15 of 27 Old 11-24-2018, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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eBay kit? Thatís 80% of your problem
Yup... it was on the bike when i got it.
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