OP, if you didn't damage the threads in the aluminum, now that you have used your new torque wrench and set the torque to the spec......... You should be golden.
Kudos for trying to learn. Fuck that. You ARE
learning. These fine gentleman are expressing their frustration with your learning style. That's really on them, rather than you.
Strikes me that you're a bit on the OCD side of things, which can make winnowing through all the possibilities more difficult than others may find it, when facing a completely new experience.
As has been said, on a large proportion of the nuts and bolts of a motorcycle, the specific torque value is not critical. At all. Cosmetic parts fall in this category. Mirrors, seat bolts, battery terminals, kick stand mount, etc. Hand tight, snugged down is probably good enough. Just check it again, at some later point to see if it's loosened up..... Add a bit more, if needed.
Slightly more important would be anything which is load bearing, or has a critical control function. Foot peg brackets, motor mounts, pivot points, brake rotors, sprockets, axle nuts, hand controls that can bind up with too much force applied, etc.
Any value associated with the inside of the engine --- cam caps, any bearing any where, those are the ones that NEED
to be set with a torque wrench. The precision parts, have to be handled with precision. Some varying degree of sloppiness can be allowed elsewhere.
There is risk associated with this. The trade off between detailed exacting perfection, and 'good enough' can result in catastrophic failure in a few scenarios...... But it's a fairly small number compared to the total number of nuts and bolts on the bike.
The valve stem caps never need a torque wrench.