Torque - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 02:06 PM
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post #17 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Put the wrench down and walk away.
can u please answer my question or is that the asnwer lmao its all set right
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post #18 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 03:38 PM
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can u please answer my question or is that the asnwer lmao its all set right
With your level of intellect we can safely assume you fucked it up.
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post #19 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 04:00 PM
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With your level of intellect we can safely assume you fucked it up.




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post #20 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 04:35 PM
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might as well just leave it alone. it's tight and not stripped
It's probably tight cuz it's cross-threaded! lol

You know what they say...it doesn't matter if it's torqued to spec, or cross-threaded...tight is tight!

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post #21 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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might as well just leave it alone. it's tight and not stripped
It's probably tight cuz it's cross-threaded! lol

You know what they say...it doesn't matter if it's torqued to spec, or cross-threaded...tight is tight! <img src="https://zx6r.com/images/smilies/laugh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Laugh" class="inlineimg" />
That makes no sense how old is the cross threaded if I over pork the correct size belt and then on screwed it and torqued it to the correct force
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post #22 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 05:50 PM
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With your level of intellect we can safely assume you fucked it up.

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post #23 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 05:54 PM
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could i have caused stripped threads when i was unscrewing the over toqued bolts? i toruqed them to 33 pounds and it clicked
Are u sure your torque wrench is working properly? When was the last time u had it calibrated?
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post #24 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Are u sure your torque wrench is working properly? When was the last time u had it calibrated?
bought it today
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post #25 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 06:33 PM
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That makes no sense how old is the cross threaded if I over pork the correct size belt and then on screwed it and torqued it to the correct force
What?? The only thing that makes no sense is your sentence. I honestly have no idea what you just tried to say lol

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post #26 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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What?? The only thing that makes no sense is your sentence. I honestly have no idea what you just tried to say lol
fucking siri man she doesent type anything good i said how can i crossthread the bolt when im unscrewing it then putting it back to spec the correct size bolt
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post #27 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 06:40 PM
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fucking siri man she doesent type anything good i said how can i crossthread the bolt when im unscrewing it then putting it back to spec the correct size bolt
You didn't cross-thread it. I was making a joke. Saw it in a meme the other day on Trackday Junkies and it reminded me of it lol

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post #28 of 64 Old 10-31-2018, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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You didn't cross-thread it. I was making a joke. Saw it in a meme the other day on Trackday Junkies and it reminded me of it lol

lmFAOOOOO
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post #29 of 64 Old 11-01-2018, 12:51 AM
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OP, if you didn't damage the threads in the aluminum, now that you have used your new torque wrench and set the torque to the spec......... You should be golden.

Kudos for trying to learn. Fuck that. You ARE learning. These fine gentleman are expressing their frustration with your learning style. That's really on them, rather than you.

Strikes me that you're a bit on the OCD side of things, which can make winnowing through all the possibilities more difficult than others may find it, when facing a completely new experience.

As has been said, on a large proportion of the nuts and bolts of a motorcycle, the specific torque value is not critical. At all. Cosmetic parts fall in this category. Mirrors, seat bolts, battery terminals, kick stand mount, etc. Hand tight, snugged down is probably good enough. Just check it again, at some later point to see if it's loosened up..... Add a bit more, if needed.

Slightly more important would be anything which is load bearing, or has a critical control function. Foot peg brackets, motor mounts, pivot points, brake rotors, sprockets, axle nuts, hand controls that can bind up with too much force applied, etc.

Any value associated with the inside of the engine --- cam caps, any bearing any where, those are the ones that NEED to be set with a torque wrench. The precision parts, have to be handled with precision. Some varying degree of sloppiness can be allowed elsewhere.

There is risk associated with this. The trade off between detailed exacting perfection, and 'good enough' can result in catastrophic failure in a few scenarios...... But it's a fairly small number compared to the total number of nuts and bolts on the bike.

The valve stem caps never need a torque wrench.
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post #30 of 64 Old 11-01-2018, 03:49 AM
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Make sure to use a lot of red loctite on the bolts. Really make sure the bolt is doused in it.
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