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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys.

Bike is original/unmodified. It is running roughly at low to mid revs, top seems fine. New plugs in. Stick coils check out ok. TPS, Igniter etc. all seem fine. I think/know it's carb troubles. Carbs are out of bike now and I would rather separate whole rack for full cleaning and overhaul than try with them joined (there is too much crap that I can't get to in nooks & cranny's on outside). When fully apart they will be taken completely to pieces and cleaned/checked. I notice that the air filter and carb gaskets seem oily in places and are melting away and said gloop may have drifted into carbs! New gaskets will be ordered. (I wonder was it the 'Silkolene Foam Filter Oil' I used to replenish the std air filter after a clean a while ago? Kawasaki recommend std SAE30 oil). I have no trouble separating the rack but anything I should know about the 3 spring positions on the throttle/butterfly/sync connections on carbs 1,2 &4? I have the (very expensive) Kawasaki workshop manual and while it's great for most of the engine/bike settings it is very sparse when it comes to carb work!

Thanks in advance,

Lindsey
 

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Any decent foam oil or equivalent will do but remember to apply sparsely, Don't have it dripping in oil, I use a clear plastic snappy bag to put some oil in then the filter and give it a good manipulation without getting covered myself.

Regarding the Carb strip.
"Warning" if you completely separate all four from the complete bank you may end up struggling to get them lined back up and moving freely together, There set up on a Jig at Factory to ensure there correctly assembled and inline.
If you do decide to then take loads of pictures at every angle before ripping them apart.
 

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You can fully clean them without seperating the 4 individually........... but,
you cannot replace the o-rings on those fuel crossover pipes without removing them from each other.....

When I pull a bank of 4 apart, those sync screws you ask about........

I back them all off 3 full turns (sometimes even 4 or 5 full turns if there is enough screw)and pull the spring out of there while fully assembled (write it down so when you assemble, you can turn them all those same 3 full turns back in for your rough synchronization, so you have a relatively close enough starting point when you do have it running again and synchronize them ~you may well still end up turning 2 or even all 3 of them a 1/16th to an 1/8th turn to get sync just perfect~......)
and pay attention to haw that spring sits, there is a small bb on one side it surrounds and then that flat plate on the other (the flat plate is pushed by the adjusting screw on the opposite side of the spring)

Set your foloat heights at the maximum setting (I believe it is 9mm!!!) you can thnak me later on how much better it runs there than at the lowest 7mm or the varied they usually come

As far as your oily intake........ maybe you oiled the air filter too much?
maybe you have too much oil in the crankcase and it is coming up the breather hose?


These are pretty simple to get very clean and work on, just make sure to clean all the air jets and passageways as well
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, thanks very much for the tips guys. Oil in crank is fine so that is not the issue with the rubber gaskets melting. I will be very light when re-oiling the original air filter.

Rgds

Lindsey
 

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I back them all off 3 full turns (sometimes even 4 or 5 full turns if there is enough screw)and pull the spring out of there while fully assembled (write it down so when you assemble, you can turn them all those same 3 full turns back in for your rough synchronization,
You don't like to bench sync with a piece of wire or small drill bit as a starting point? Good tip on the float height. When I pull mine off this summer to install a jet kit I will check the floats at the same time and set them to high side of the range.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I cleaned out all with rack assembled. O rings on fuel line not leaking so I left them in peace. Re: the 7 or 9mm float measurement. The Kawasaki workshop manual states 7mm + or - 2mm and shows the measurement to the bottom of the float. Mine all measure nearly 12mm to the bottom of the float! The bike is fairly low mileage and a naughty Imp has not been in to all 4 carbs and bent the tangs so they all register 12mm! Any of you know if this measurement is to the bottom of float or the ridge that runs all the way round near the bottom? God bless Kawasaki for their stunning detail in their expensive workshop manual!

While we have drifted to the subject of a jet kit, mine has the standard factory enormous can! Since there is no cat in mine I might be tempted to fit a smaller or race can but do not want to do so without carbs adjusted, air filter etc. Any thoughts or recommendations re after market cans and set up? I have to order new gaskets and hey while I am here, why not let her look a bit sexier with a little bit more kick when out for a scud? lol

Lindsey
 

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If you want to save a bob or two on seals and o rings check out Litetec viton seals, I've used these on many carb rebuilds, they are excellent, I tend to trash the cover screws and replace with allen heads as these screws are a pain in the ass. I always split the carbs and replace every o ring. Balancing them afterwards is the fun bit, patience patience.....
Should add I use an ultrasonic cleaner and blow out with compressed air afterwards.
Do not worry about splitting the bodies they WILL go back together straight, and if you have sprayed the dreaded carb cleaner everywhere and not split them any in place o rings will not enjoy that carb cleaner.
 

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You don't like to bench sync with a piece of wire or small drill bit as a starting point? Good tip on the float height. When I pull mine off this summer to install a jet kit I will check the floats at the same time and set them to high side of the range.


Mark
I can look at the position of the butterfly valve in relation to the fuel/air bleed holes and get close enough before doing a real vacuum sync, but usually if you just count the turns you are close enough pre vacuum sync
 
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