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Good choice in your setup! I have the same, and it absolutely rips. Did you get your flash/map from Graves? I did go with the “bike” side harness from FTECU so I was able to rewrite my ECU without removing, and mailing in my ECU. I also added a QS later on and was able to enable it through the USB connected to my ECU. It’s pretty handy. Enjoy the ride, looks awesome!
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Good choice in your setup! I have the same, and it absolutely rips. Did you get your flash/map from Graves? I did go with the “bike” side harness from FTECU so I was able to rewrite my ECU without removing, and mailing in my ECU. I also added a QS later on and was able to enable it through the USB connected to my ECU. It’s pretty handy. Enjoy the ride, looks awesome! View attachment 111323
I essentially sent my ECU off for the Graves map
to be loaded. It was cheaper and quicker than going with the FT-ECU. it’s purely for the street and having fun.
 
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Yeah man those fairings are gorgeous. Where did you get them from?
Thank you! They’re actually the green color form Hotbodies bodywork underneath. My plan was just to use the base green, and add vinyl graphics, but I wasn’t thrilled with the finish of the green bodywork. I found a local business that does the “hydro dipping” process and he hooked me up with a killer deal. He was psyched to do a race bike, plus I told him he didn’t have to be perfect lol
Then I added some vinyl decals from Chris at Drippinwet. I’m really happy with how it turned out! They definitely slowed me down though since I’m now afraid to crash 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Thank you! They’re actually the green color form Hotbodies bodywork underneath. My plan was just to use the base green, and add vinyl graphics, but I wasn’t thrilled with the finish of the green bodywork. I found a local business that does the “hydro dipping” process and he hooked me up with a killer deal. He was psyched to do a race bike, plus I told him he didn’t have to be perfect lol
Then I added some vinyl decals from Chris at Drippinwet. I’m really happy with how it turned out! They definitely slowed me down though since I’m now afraid to crash 😂
Hey, does your ZX6R pull super hard all the way to 16K RPM too? I drove 100 miles today on the street. First of all, I have never had a bike flashed/tuned/modified in all my years of riding. I mostly just drove them stock and that was that. So, when I bought this Graves full system and had my ECU done this was a first time thing for me, spending thousands of dollars just to improve a motorcycle. Well, today riding on the street was some new revelation for me lol. Never felt an engine pull this hard and continue making HP power all the way to the RPM limiter. It was crazy fun. Normally engines accelerate, start pulling really hard, then the engine falls flat, and it’s revving merely just to revv or go faster even though it quit pulling hard through the revvs lol.


This thing PULLS all the way through and the revv limit is a surprise to you!!! Revving is enjoyable and it’s the most incredible thing I’ve experienced. I have never ridden on a race track. But, it felt like that’s where it would belong.


Im absolutely shocked by the power this bike is producing.


Headers are blueing up nicely as well!
 
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Oh man I can only imagine your excitement after only knowing stock bikes/tunes. I came from my 09 zx6r with a “Supersport” built engine, and full Akra exhaust that made 125 HP running U4 race gas, and I didn’t feel any drop off. I think I like my 2016 636 graves setup even more lol
These engines are made for the high rev range and top end. You basically removed all of the stock restrictions, and are now realizing the full potential of the inline 4 engine. And yeah I highly recommend getting that thing on the race track to fully realize the fun factor! It’s much safer too! 😁
 

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Would this ECU flash enable a stock bike to rev to redline or would all the other mods (Full exhaust and Air filter) be required to achieve it? Debating on having mine flashed before I get all the other stuff down the road next Spring?
 

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Would this ECU flash enable a stock bike to rev to redline or would all the other mods (Full exhaust and Air filter) be required to achieve it? Debating on having mine flashed before I get all the other stuff down the road next Spring?
An ECU flash does not require other mods but most have at least a slip-on. For a mail in ECU flash service the tuner will ask what mods are present and select the map that most closely matches your setup. I have a slip-on, K&N air filter, and Moore Mafia ECU flash.

The ECU flash will increase the rev limit, disable the 02 sensor, disable the decel fuel cut, decrease fan temp setting, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If you have a stock bike, I highly recommend an ECU reflash either way. It’ll improve throttle response, you’ll make more HP power, and even make the engine run cooler. It really helps a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update:


So, I have about 150-200 miles on the full system so far. And, I’m so happy I invested in such a system with the custom map. I’m gonna have this bike for several more years, it only has 4K miles on it anyways.

The exhaust is turning blue and it looks just amazing so far!

I now know with any motorcycle I purchase, ITS GETTING A FULL SYSTEM+FILTER +ECU FLASH ASAP.


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What temp is your fan going on at ? My ECU should be delivered to the flash shop tomorrow.
Mine comes on at 194 using Moore Mafia ECU flashing service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
What temp is your fan going on at ? My ECU should be delivered to the flash shop tomorrow.
Mine is 205F. I also flushed out my cooling system, and added some of that ICE coolant stuff, I noticed a big difference in temps. I don’t think the stock coolant is all that great.


Which flash company did you use? Make sure to unplug your O2 sensor just in case.
 

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I went with 2 wheel dynoworks. I take it the plug for the o2 sensor is under the tank?
There really is no need to unplug the 02 sensor since the ECU flash will disable the 02 sensor. I did remove the 02 after the Moore ECU flash and there was zero difference. Also, on my 400 I left the 02 sensor in place after the ECU flash because the tuner from SBU said there was no need to remove it.

You can unplug the 02 under the tank, leave it plugged in, or remove the entire 02 and plug the hole. It literally doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
I went with 2 wheel dynoworks. I take it the plug for the o2 sensor is under the tank?
You can unplug it without lifting the tank, you just need a flashlight, and a little long flat head to pry the locking clip to unplug it. I always say to unplug it just in case it’s not disabled. You never know. That’s what the instructions say anyways.


I only thought they disabled the CEL for the O2 sensor. Not actually disabled the O2 sensor all together.
 

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Mine is 205F. I also flushed out my cooling system, and added some of that ICE coolant stuff, I noticed a big difference in temps. I don’t think the stock coolant is all that great.
……..

Why the fascination with engine coolant temperature? The whole reason for using a pressurized cooling system is so the engine can operate at higher temperature so it is more efficient.

Kawasaki designed the engine to run at or near the temperature it reaches, using the sensor settings and coolant they recommend. Aluminum and steel expand at different rates. Stable temperature produces consistent bearing spacing when all the parts reach their designed stable temperatures. Cold engines have not expanded as much as expected and are therefore a bit more ‘sloppy’. But sloppy in this case means less bearing clearance. There’s a reason the vast majority of engine wear occurs while an engine

A pressurized cooling system is more efficient, because there is more contact between the coolant and the engine surfaces it’s supposed to transfer heat from. Lower temperature, lower pressure….. more heat in the engine parts. The higher pressure reduces the number of bubbles that form on the surfaces….. those bubbles are insulators which limit the heat transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Why the fascination with engine coolant temperature? The whole reason for using a pressurized cooling system is so the engine can operate at higher temperature so it is more efficient.

Kawasaki designed the engine to run at or near the temperature it reaches, using the sensor settings and coolant they recommend. Aluminum and steel expand at different rates. Stable temperature produces consistent bearing spacing when all the parts reach their designed stable temperatures. Cold engines have not expanded as much as expected and are therefore a bit more ‘sloppy’. But sloppy in this case means less bearing clearance. There’s a reason the vast majority of engine wear occurs while an engine

A pressurized cooling system is more efficient, because there is more contact between the coolant and the engine surfaces it’s supposed to transfer heat from. Lower temperature, lower pressure….. more heat in the engine parts. The higher pressure reduces the number of bubbles that form on the surfaces….. those bubbles are insulators which limit the heat transfer.
No fascination at all, my bike just had 4K miles on the original coolant from the factory and it was pretty filthy looking. It was also 3 years old too.

I understand your concept, but I just don’t want an engine running very hot in traffic is all.

I much prefer the 180-190F max temps range. And since the coolant flush, I have noticed a difference in lower temps.

Engine over 212F lose HP right?

I let my engine warmup to the 142F when the idle drops, and it’s pretty much time to let her rip.
 
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