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Not trying to be ‘that guy’….. how are you going to KNOW you gained 13+ rwhp? Dyno immediately before the change and on the same day afterwards?
 

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Reasonable approach, I guess. That’s relatively inexpensive HP in the grand scheme of things @ $100/HP. The weight loss should make that all the more enjoyable.
 

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Mine is 205F. I also flushed out my cooling system, and added some of that ICE coolant stuff, I noticed a big difference in temps. I don’t think the stock coolant is all that great.
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Why the fascination with engine coolant temperature? The whole reason for using a pressurized cooling system is so the engine can operate at higher temperature so it is more efficient.

Kawasaki designed the engine to run at or near the temperature it reaches, using the sensor settings and coolant they recommend. Aluminum and steel expand at different rates. Stable temperature produces consistent bearing spacing when all the parts reach their designed stable temperatures. Cold engines have not expanded as much as expected and are therefore a bit more ‘sloppy’. But sloppy in this case means less bearing clearance. There’s a reason the vast majority of engine wear occurs while an engine

A pressurized cooling system is more efficient, because there is more contact between the coolant and the engine surfaces it’s supposed to transfer heat from. Lower temperature, lower pressure….. more heat in the engine parts. The higher pressure reduces the number of bubbles that form on the surfaces….. those bubbles are insulators which limit the heat transfer.
 

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Actually, no loss of power due to 212F. That’s not the boiling point inside the cooling system. More like 240-250. Higher temperatures = more pressure = more cooling.

Coolant temperature is not the critical factor; it’s simply the easiest thing to measure. Engine block, cylinder head temps are where metal may hit metal.
 
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