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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, absoulutely love riding my 1999 G2, but only once its warmed up. From cold it takes 10 minutes for the LCD temperature gauge to reach 4 'bars'. This feels too long, but If I try riding it before it reaches this temperature, the bike cuts out when slowing down at lights etc. Ive changed all the filters, drained the float bowls, changed fuel pump, but am beginning to wonder if its just the way it has to be with a 20 year old bike?
Any advice would be welcome??
 

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There's always the possibility that your jets have some gunk or varnish on them. Try running seafoam through a couple tanks and see if it gets better.
 

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Hey, absoulutely love riding my 1999 G2, but only once its warmed up. From cold it takes 10 minutes for the LCD temperature gauge to reach 4 'bars'. This feels too long, but If I try riding it before it reaches this temperature, the bike cuts out when slowing down at lights etc. Ive changed all the filters, drained the float bowls, changed fuel pump, but am beginning to wonder if its just the way it has to be with a 20 year old bike?
Any advice would be welcome??
Where is your warm idle set? How long does it need choke on a cold start? Have you tweaked the mixture screws to richen up the idle circuit a bit? Ever properly cleaned the carbs?

If there is a big change in idle speed between cold and hot and it won't run without the choke when cold then I would guess you have some gunked up pilot jets. Next time you you do a cold start feel the headers to see if all of them get warm at the same time. If one stays cold then that idle circuit is blocked.

I'm in Canada and my 98 never reaches 4 bars on the temp gauge unless it is a warm day and I'm at town speeds. Stays at 3 bars all day when on the highway even in 25+C temps. Cold starts need maybe 30-40 seconds of choke, then will idle fine without. I can ride away with no issues a minute after that with one bar showing on the temp gauge. You should be able to do the same if everything is right.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have just ordered Seafoam, tried Rydex before with no change. But hey ho its worth a shot. Thanks for your help.

Steps I use when starting in Summer and/Or Winter

From cold:
Full Choke, starts first time/no gas/ Revs to 2000 then down to 1500, revs began to fade, a little gas is then needed to maintain revs at around 1500. I then gradually close off the choke - usually fully off within a minute of starting.
Once One bar is shown in temp gauge, the gas can be left alone and the bike works its way up to idle speed after 10 minutes/4 bars on temp gauge. The revs will bob up and down, until after this time, the revs level off and maintain idle at circa 1750.
Ive set the idle a bit higher than norm at about 1750, it just behaves a bit better at this setting when riding.


I havent fully cleaned the carbs or tweeked anything. Unfortunately the bike came with no service history too
 

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Clean the carburetors and do a proper tune up to start with...........

probably fix all the ailments

first thing you should always do with any new to you, used piece o shit you have no idea what the previous rejects neglected!
 

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Clean the carburetors and do a proper tune up to start with...........

probably fix all the ailments

first thing you should always do with any new to you, used piece o shit you have no idea what the previous rejects neglected!
Speaking of tune up, who the hell sells a decent spark plug wire for the g1/2 most sites sell the wires with coil and it's$$$
 

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Speaking of tune up, who the hell sells a decent spark plug wire for the g1/2 most sites sell the wires with coil and it's$$$
I find it very rare I have ever needed to replace wires on any motorcycle, in fact I bet in the past 35 years it has been less than 5 times........

but Dynatek does make them (on most jap bikes you will have to re-use the pinch collar and the threaded attachment "nut" for the coil end)
I think they were about $15 my cost for a set of 4 a few years back and only retailed for like $19.95

you can do the same thing going to the auto parts store but be wary of diameter...
 

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Speaking of tune up, who the hell sells a decent spark plug wire for the g1/2 most sites sell the wires with coil and it's$$$
I find it very rare I have ever needed to replace wires on any motorcycle, in fact I bet in the past 35 years it has been less than 5 times........

but Dynatek does make them (on most jap bikes you will have to re-use the pinch collar and the threaded attachment "nut" for the coil end)
I think they were about $15 my cost for a set of 4 a few years back and only retailed for like $19.95

you can do the same thing going to the auto parts store but be wary of diameter...
One of the boots tore at the 90 angle So I guess I can just throw in some ngk ends
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where is your warm idle set? How long does it need choke on a cold start? Have you tweaked the mixture screws to richen up the idle circuit a bit? Ever properly cleaned the carbs?

If there is a big change in idle speed between cold and hot and it won't run without the choke when cold then I would guess you have some gunked up pilot jets. Next time you you do a cold start feel the headers to see if all of them get warm at the same time. If one stays cold then that idle circuit is blocked.

I'm in Canada and my 98 never reaches 4 bars on the temp gauge unless it is a warm day and I'm at town speeds. Stays at 3 bars all day when on the highway even in 25+C temps. Cold starts need maybe 30-40 seconds of choke, then will idle fine without. I can ride away with no issues a minute after that with one bar showing on the temp gauge. You should be able to do the same if everything is right.


Mark
Headers all warmed up quickly together. Ill try the Seafoam and if no improvement Ill get it dyno ran and tuned.
 

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Headers all warmed up quickly together. Ill try the Seafoam and if no improvement Ill get it dyno ran and tuned.

"dyno ran and tuned"

OMFG....


I already told you what to do

You take it to the dyno after it running well to alter fuel/ignition etc to make it even better......but you have to start with it already running well
ie the carbs actually clean and performing how they are meant to
the valve adjustment already done
new plugs, tps adjusted, etc etc etc.........................

whatthefuckever..............
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey , just to let you know, it was an valve clearance issue. All adjusted and running well. Thanks again
 
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