Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I need help!

I have a 2014 that has two problems that are driving me crazy. Can anyone help?

Prob 1. Bike stutters in low RPM when rolling on the throttle in 1st and 2nd gear. Its an aggressive stutter until you get above 4000 RPM. This isn't do to letting the clutch out to quick and this isn't the normal hesitation that some bikes have. This is very noticeable, impossible to roll on smooth and very obvious to anyone listening to the bike.

Prob 2. I have had a power commander 5 and dyno jet quick shifter professionally installed. When the quick shifter is plugged in the bike loses power when on the throttle. It almost sounds like its blowing air. When unplugged its fine.

Bike Info

6000km
Gear up 2 on rear
Power commander 5
Dyno Jet Quick shifter
New ECU
New traction control and Abs module
New Injectors
BCM air filter
New plugs
New Battery
New Chain

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,139 Posts
The problem I am having is with the statement of the PCV and Quickshifter being "professionally installed" - yet you are experiencing these fueling and electronic-type issues. There may be an install/adjustment problem here that reflects on the ability of the installer.:thumbdown:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
The problem I am having is with the statement of the PCV and Quickshifter being "professionally installed" - yet you are experiencing these fueling and electronic-type issues. There may be an install/adjustment problem here that reflects on the ability of the installer.:thumb down:
I'm of the same mind.

To the original poster,

Unplug the PCV and the QS. See if anything changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,920 Posts
Welcome to the forum.

Professionally just means that get money for services rendered. Doesn't mean they are competent.

As stated. Pull the PC and see how the bike runs. Plugging in the quick shifter should have NOTHING to do with how the bike runs.
It's a switch, off or on. When made it tells the PC to kill the engine for part of a second so you can shift.
So your symptoms don't make sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sorry I should have explained further. I have been back to see the installer. He put the bike back on the dyno but it didn't reproduce the stutter problem. He thinks the shifter might be faulty which is causing the power loss problem so I need to call dyno jet after the weekend. The bike has also been to two dealers and Kawi Canada, all who are giving me the run around. Kawi Canada claims to have changed the ECU, TC and ABS module, chain, sprocket, and injectors to fix the stutter problem. Im not sure if i believe them. The stutter problem is separate from the quick shifter problem. If I unplug the shifter and PC the stutter problem stays. If I unplug the quick shifter the power problem is fixed. Im open to any suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
Sorry I should have explained further. I have been back to see the installer. He put the bike back on the dyno but it didn't reproduce the stutter problem. He thinks the shifter might be faulty which is causing the power loss problem so I need to call dyno jet after the weekend. The bike has also been to two dealers and Kawi Canada, all who are giving me the run around. Kawi Canada claims to have changed the ECU, TC and ABS module, chain, sprocket, and injectors to fix the stutter problem. Im not sure if i believe them. The stutter problem is separate from the quick shifter problem. If I unplug the shifter and PC the stutter problem stays. If I unplug the quick shifter the power problem is fixed. Im open to any suggestions.
Ok, information! If unplugging the QS fixes it, it stands to reason that your QS module is either defective, or set up wrong. If you went with a reputable shop for the install and dyno tune, I'd hazard a guess that the QS module is simply defective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im hoping thats the QS problem. I suspect it is. My bigger concern is the stuttering at low RPMs. This problem doesn't seem to be an easy fix. I have been told by dealers and kiwi it was everything that I previous listed need to be replaced. Which it all has. Still didn't fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
Im hoping thats the QS problem. I suspect it is. My bigger concern is the stuttering at low RPMs. This problem doesn't seem to be an easy fix. I have been told by dealers and kiwi it was everything that I previous listed need to be replaced. Which it all has. Still didn't fix it.
Have you tried increasing your idle rpm? Might be that something simple is mal-adjusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Wasn't there a post here about changing the gearing on ABS bikes causing problems like this?Also does it stutter with traction control off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,190 Posts
Could the low speed stutter be related to TCS? what settings are you using for that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have played with idle. Its set correctly. The tc sensors have been cleaned and are on order to be replace. The bike stutters in all tc settings and power modes. Etude can you point me to the gear with ABS post?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,190 Posts
some other areas that should be eliminated..... what is the condition of the chain and sprockets? I'd expect that to already have been addressed, but it's one that absolutely needs to be right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have been doing some reading on other bikes with the same stutter issue. It seems for them its the sprocket as well. And maybe only on the ABS bikes. Does anyone know anything about this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I have put the OEM sprocket back on. The problems is gone now. But I don't get it. Everyone changes the gearing on these bike. What is the gear affecting? Kawi must have a fix for this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Theres nothing in ABS that could cause it. Traction control maybe but I thought it was based on wheel speed not sprocket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,190 Posts
The sensor for wheel speed is the inner ring with the spokes...If that is too far away from the sensor that reads it, or right at the edge, it could be giving the ECU false data. If the sensor is loose, that would also give false information...

The ECU constantly samples the wheel speed........ at least hundreds of times per second. Any change in the reported speed gets a reaction.

If that ring is reversed, I don't know what effect that would have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
maybe kawi tied the wheel speed to the engine RPM for some reason?Higher rpm at wrong speed maybe causing the problem?Just a theory,no evidence to back it up.Strange that it only affects ABS models though.I have wante to change the front sprocket down a tooth on my bike but after reading about the problems people had I wouldn't try it,even though I don't have ABS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,190 Posts
maybe kawi tied the wheel speed to the engine RPM for some reason?Higher rpm at wrong speed maybe causing the problem?Just a theory,no evidence to back it up.Strange that it only affects ABS models though.I have wante to change the front sprocket down a tooth on my bike but after reading about the problems people had I wouldn't try it,even though I don't have ABS.
On models with the traction management system (which is the basis of the ABS system) the ECU messes with the ignition, or fuel when it detects wheel slip. That's almost certainly the shuddering, as it kicks in and out. TCS is all done in the engine, so it doesn't take as many parts as ABS, which requires valves and solenoids to cut the valves in and out. As there are less parts, it's cheaper.

Either system requires accurate measurement of wheel speed, and that data has to be averaged over some time window to decide if there is an abnormal change in wheel speed. The front wheel's speed is compared to the back wheel. If the back wheel suddenly starts rotating faster than the front, engine power is reduced. With all the different modes, there has to a significant amount of CPU processing going on, evaluating a specific algorithm for each TCS mode.

Things like if the front wheel is slowing due to braking, or coasting due to a wheelie can create a speed differential compared to the back. Ideally, both wheels are in contact with the road and going very nearly the same speed, with very similar rates of change to that speed due to acceleration or braking.

The sooner you can detect a significant change in rate between the front and back (probably compared to a running average baseline), the sooner you can have the engine react to bring the condition back to 'normal'.

I don't know how the system is set up, so I can't state with absolute confidence how it reacts when it looses a sensor's input. I would expect that when it looses communication altogether, it will throw a code to state that. If the data is hinkey, I don't know how it would react.... but it would be spotty performance as felt by the rider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
One quick one to rule out whether they changed the ECU, did you get new keys? or did they even ask for your normal and spare key to put the new code in them? Your keys should not have worked with a new ECU unless the keys got re-coded to the new ECU. Miss match of codes between keys and ECU will activate the immobilizer rendering the bike to be a paper weight

Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
had the ecu replaced but they only had the 1 key when it went in,they never asked for another.ECU was changed cause I looked at the #'s before and after.I remember looking at ECU's on ebay when I was having the starting issue and questioned about changing it out and having problems with the security.The answer I got back was the Canadian models didn't have the same security as the American models.Wether there is any truth to it I don't know as I didn't buy the ECU.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top