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Discussion Starter #1
Dear All,

I'm new on this forum and i would like to get some advice from experienced kawasaki users.

So, i'm from Europe and looking for my first sportsbike. I got my eyes on 2006 xz6r 636 version. Today i checked one bike, that was not in the best visual condition, but i can fully agree on technical as the bike was very smooth and pleasant. Are here any this series users, that can share some common problems, things to double check? And should i be worried if the bike was taken to the track time by time?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Slipping out of 2nd gear under high load is supposedly a common problem, the shift forks can wear out causing this problem.
Other than that the bike is really solid, just make sure the bike have gotten regular services and a valve adjustment.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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Iv'e had my 2005 636 for 6 years now (and 15,000 miles during that time), and I can say during that time there isn't/wasn't anything specific that occurs with this bike that I would say is 636 specific and to watch out for (but others have mentioned the transmission, so make sure each gear shifts smoothly and doesn't slip out of gear(s)). Some things I have heard, but not really experienced myself are the ECUs failing, but this is one of those things that you can't really diagnose until it actually fails. The front master cylinder piston does sometimes fail on these bikes, it's an easy rebuild kit, but make sure the front brake lever has good pressure build up and works well.

Other than that, I'd say treat it like any other bike you would be purchasing used and make sure it's in good mechanical shape, use the cosmetic defects/flaws as a bargaining chip

- Check all electronics on the bike
  • Blinkers, front & rear both sides
  • Brake light (both, front lever and foot brake should trigger rear brake light),
  • Headlight w/high beam,
  • Horn
  • Odometer buttons, clock, lap timer, mileage, etc...
  • Etc...anything that doesn't work via electronics could be a sign of electrical issues, or just a burn out bulb or fuse, know your bike
- Check for any fluid leaks
  • Fork Seals - Look over the chrome part of the forks (inner fork tube) and if the owner lets take it for a ride, and as soon as you get back look at them again to see if it's still dry (some people will wipe them down to hide the leak, but a quick few mile ride should reveal if there's any issues
  • Engine - Look where the oil filter is, oil drain bolt, and most importantly, valve cover gasket area. "some" build up of oil or dirt may not be a big issue or indicate anything other than previous oil spills/dirt. BUT if you see any fresh oil, there might be a problem
  • Transmission - Look over the clutch cover housing, and other covers that have gaskets, just make sure no fresh oil anywhere that would indicate signs of leakage
  • Coolant - Run the bike at idle and let it warm up, see if the fan kicks in around 210-212 degrees F* and cools it off. Look over the coolant hoses for any leaks, you can and also should monitor this while the bike is running past 200* to see when the fan kicks in and cycles coolant
RIDE the bike
  • Get a feel for each gear, the brakes (do they shake under heavy braking?), acceleration (smooth power band? no hiccups or restrictions that would indicate fuel or air delivery issues), handling (does the bike "Fight" you as you turn/lean either way or transition?) , etc...
Maintenance items - You should look these over, and keep in mind the wear % as that may indicate you need to put some money into it sooner than later, depending on wear amounts
  • Brakes (Pads & rotors) - You should be able to visually check brake pad wear, and even rotor, but riding the bike will also give you a good indication of the condition of the brakes (perhaps it just needs a brake fluid flush/bleed)
  • Tires - Depending how crazy you want to get, sometimes tire wear can tell you if the bikes suspension is having issues or not, but either way check tire wear (and if possible the manufacturer date on them) to see how soon you will have to replace them
  • Chain/Sprocket - Find out last time it was replaced, look over chain for rust spots or missing o-rings
  • Oil level - there's a window on the right hand side of the bike to see the bikes engine oil level. Check this BEFORE even turning on the bike and try to get the bike standing straight up, not on it's kickstand. If the oil level is too low (or you can't even see it) it would be a bad sign for the previous owners maintenance habits, or potential leaking issues. If it's too high, or completely fills the window, also not a great sign of maintenance and not very great for the bike in terms of oil pressure
Logistics
  • This may sound crazy, but make sure the person selling you the bike is actually the OWNER of the bike, ask for ID (Ask me how I know lol). They may or may not be insulted, too bad, they should understand. Cross reference their ID with the title of the bike (Does the title show a lien by the way? Or no lien recorded, pay attention to that)
  • Trust your instincts, sometimes you just get a feeling that something isn't right (with the bike or seller) and you walk away. Simple as that. I've purchased several used bikes, and dealt with dozens of people selling used bikes, sometimes you just need to listen to your instinct.
Good luck! if you get the bike, welcome to the 05/06 636 family! :)
 

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Also - track time on a bike isn't necessarily a bad thing, I've tracked mine. It does however mean it was probably down at some point, or several points, and you should look over the bike a bit more closely to make sure there's no dents/cracks in the frame, swingarm, fork tubes, etc...

Aside from cosmetic blemishes you mentioned, just be a little more weary of structural parts of the bike as that is very important. I wouldn't call it a deal breaker though
 

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Yup, just the 2nd and 3rd gear issues everyone mentioned. It will slip out of gear under acceleration if the gears/forks are worn. I had to replace mine and its not fun. U gotta remove the engine and split open the bottom half.... So make sure thats fine.

05 models had overheating ECU’s but the problem was fixed on the 06 models. Thats about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Iv'e had my 2005 636 for 6 years now (and 15,000 miles during that time), and I can say during that time there isn't/wasn't anything specific that occurs with this bike that I would say is 636 specific and to watch out for (but others have mentioned the transmission, so make sure each gear shifts smoothly and doesn't slip out of gear(s)). Some things I have heard, but not really experienced myself are the ECUs failing, but this is one of those things that you can't really diagnose until it actually fails. The front master cylinder piston does sometimes fail on these bikes, it's an easy rebuild kit, but make sure the front brake lever has good pressure build up and works well.

Other than that, I'd say treat it like any other bike you would be purchasing used and make sure it's in good mechanical shape, use the cosmetic defects/flaws as a bargaining chip

- Check all electronics on the bike
  • Blinkers, front & rear both sides
  • Brake light (both, front lever and foot brake should trigger rear brake light),
  • Headlight w/high beam,
  • Horn
  • Odometer buttons, clock, lap timer, mileage, etc...
  • Etc...anything that doesn't work via electronics could be a sign of electrical issues, or just a burn out bulb or fuse, know your bike
- Check for any fluid leaks
  • Fork Seals - Look over the chrome part of the forks (inner fork tube) and if the owner lets take it for a ride, and as soon as you get back look at them again to see if it's still dry (some people will wipe them down to hide the leak, but a quick few mile ride should reveal if there's any issues
  • Engine - Look where the oil filter is, oil drain bolt, and most importantly, valve cover gasket area. "some" build up of oil or dirt may not be a big issue or indicate anything other than previous oil spills/dirt. BUT if you see any fresh oil, there might be a problem
  • Transmission - Look over the clutch cover housing, and other covers that have gaskets, just make sure no fresh oil anywhere that would indicate signs of leakage
  • Coolant - Run the bike at idle and let it warm up, see if the fan kicks in around 210-212 degrees F* and cools it off. Look over the coolant hoses for any leaks, you can and also should monitor this while the bike is running past 200* to see when the fan kicks in and cycles coolant
RIDE the bike
  • Get a feel for each gear, the brakes (do they shake under heavy braking?), acceleration (smooth power band? no hiccups or restrictions that would indicate fuel or air delivery issues), handling (does the bike "Fight" you as you turn/lean either way or transition?) , etc...
Maintenance items - You should look these over, and keep in mind the wear % as that may indicate you need to put some money into it sooner than later, depending on wear amounts
  • Brakes (Pads & rotors) - You should be able to visually check brake pad wear, and even rotor, but riding the bike will also give you a good indication of the condition of the brakes (perhaps it just needs a brake fluid flush/bleed)
  • Tires - Depending how crazy you want to get, sometimes tire wear can tell you if the bikes suspension is having issues or not, but either way check tire wear (and if possible the manufacturer date on them) to see how soon you will have to replace them
  • Chain/Sprocket - Find out last time it was replaced, look over chain for rust spots or missing o-rings
  • Oil level - there's a window on the right hand side of the bike to see the bikes engine oil level. Check this BEFORE even turning on the bike and try to get the bike standing straight up, not on it's kickstand. If the oil level is too low (or you can't even see it) it would be a bad sign for the previous owners maintenance habits, or potential leaking issues. If it's too high, or completely fills the window, also not a great sign of maintenance and not very great for the bike in terms of oil pressure
Logistics
  • This may sound crazy, but make sure the person selling you the bike is actually the OWNER of the bike, ask for ID (Ask me how I know lol). They may or may not be insulted, too bad, they should understand. Cross reference their ID with the title of the bike (Does the title show a lien by the way? Or no lien recorded, pay attention to that)
  • Trust your instincts, sometimes you just get a feeling that something isn't right (with the bike or seller) and you walk away. Simple as that. I've purchased several used bikes, and dealt with dozens of people selling used bikes, sometimes you just need to listen to your instinct.
Good luck! if you get the bike, welcome to the 05/06 636 family! :)

Thank you for information. Basically i tested all that you mentioned and bike is just wonderful from technical aspect.
After SV650 this bike is a rocket launcher, so much power, i'm in :)
 
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