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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, i got an zx6r 2003 last year and did a renovation on it, powdercoated the frame and stuff, but when i was done my bike wont charge, keeps drain the battery after some hours of rideing,
i replaced the battery, regulator and the stator, still the same issue, bike feels weak at idlespeed when you brake it will easily die, i checked the groundcables to the frame and that but nothing, i dont know what to do, been having this problem for 2 month soon, the battery voltage is around 13.6 - 13.8, manual says 14.2 - 15.2
 

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Battery voltage should be close to 14 when the engine is on.

Do u have any aftermarket electronics installed?
 

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What is battery voltage with engine off?

How bout with engine on, idle speed around 1600, whats the voltage?
 

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Hmm. 13.8 is not too bad but not that great either.

If this happened right after u added the LED light, try disconnecting it and see if it makes a difference. U might have a bad unit thats drawing a lotta power.
 

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Did you sand or file the powdercoat off where the ground cable attaches?

And did you check charging system output at idle (1600ish rpms) or did you rev it to around 4000 rpms as per the manual???

leave your voltmeter on the battery and turn on the key, what does it drop to?
then when you hit the start button what does it drop to?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmm. 13.8 is not too bad but not that great either.

If this happened right after u added the LED light, try disconnecting it and see if it makes a difference. U might have a bad unit thats drawing a lotta power.
no did it as the whole bike was apars. but have been trying to disconnect the whole headlight cable, but still the same
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you sand or file the powdercoat off where the ground cable attaches?

And did you check charging system output at idle (1600ish rpms) or did you rev it to around 4000 rpms as per the manual???

leave your voltmeter on the battery and turn on the key, what does it drop to?
then when you hit the start button what does it drop to?
yes i file the groundcable to the frame, also cleaned all the ground cables, if i rev it up to 4k its 13.8
when i start it, its dropping to 10-11v,
 

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I would double check your ground for a voltage drain...and maybe go thru some of the voltage/signal tests on the ECU and the relays. You also need to test the alternator/coil if you have not(follow service manual instructions. I have had bad coil,RR, and Battery... it could be any one of a combination and a bad coil can kill a new RR, a bad RR can kill a battery...etc etc..
also there is a second ground on the harness next to spark plug#3. You can always put the bike into diagnostic mode...might supply some additional info.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would double check your ground for a voltage drain...and maybe go thru some of the voltage/signal tests on the ECU and the relays. You also need to test the alternator/coil if you have not(follow service manual instructions. I have had bad coil,RR, and Battery... it could be any one of a combination and a bad coil can kill a new RR, a bad RR can kill a battery...etc etc..
also there is a second ground on the harness next to spark plug#3. You can always put the bike into diagnostic mode...might supply some additional info.
how do i know if the goundcalbe drain? i got the same volts when i put the red on the battery and black at the frame/engine. i have new ecu and fuelpump relay, and ive check the voltage from the stator and its good, should i clean the groundcable by the sparkplugs to?
how do i get the bike in "diagnostic mode"?
 

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how do i know if the goundcalbe drain? i got the same volts when i put the red on the battery and black at the frame/engine. i have new ecu and fuelpump relay, and ive check the voltage from the stator and its good, should i clean the groundcable by the sparkplugs to?
how do i get the bike in "diagnostic mode"?
To find out if current can flow, you must measure resistance. Ohms. Different measurement. Knob should point to the Omega symbol. When you touch the meter leads together, the display should read 0.1, and when there is an air gap well over 1 million. Typically displayed as M.

Volts = pressure (E)
Current = flow (amperes) (I)

Work = volts x current (watts)....... Power (watts) equals current (I) times voltage (E) PIE.

Restrictions that limit flow = resistance (Ohms, or R). Too much, no work.

Undesirable resistance causes heat. Until a gap that blocks flow occurs (an 'open') then no work is done. (A switch opens or closes a circuit )

An open has nearly infinite resistance --- that Millions, mentioned earlier. All connections between points in a circuit have some amount of resistance.

You can still measure pressure without doing work. Voltage is often referred to as potential, as in potential to do work. Like the tension you feel when you push on a balloon..... Stored energy. A knot in the balloon restricts flow and keeps work from happening.

Current flows between different potentials. The bigger the difference, the faster the flow. All pressure in the circuit will be consumed between the different resistances in the path. The rate of flow is limited to what can pass through the greatest restriction.

Small gauge wire has more resistance than larger wire. Current always follows the path of least resistance. Just like water flowing downhill......
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To find out if current can flow, you must measure resistance. Ohms. Different measurement. Knob should point to the Omega symbol. When you touch the meter leads together, the display should read 0.1, and when there is an air gap well over 1 million. Typically displayed as M.

Volts = pressure (E)
Current = flow (amperes) (I)

Work = volts x current (watts)....... Power (watts) equals current (I) times voltage (E) PIE.

Restrictions that limit flow = resistance (Ohms, or R). Too much, no work.

Undesirable resistance causes heat. Until a gap that blocks flow occurs (an 'open') then no work is done. (A switch opens or closes a circuit )

An open has nearly infinite resistance --- that Millions, mentioned earlier. All connections between points in a circuit have some amount of resistance.

You can still measure pressure without doing work. Voltage is often referred to as potential, as in potential to do work. Like the tension you feel when you push on a balloon..... Stored energy. A knot in the balloon restricts flow and keeps work from happening.

Current flows between different potentials. The bigger the difference, the faster the flow. All pressure in the circuit will be consumed between the different resistances in the path. The rate of flow is limited to what can pass through the greatest restriction.

Small gauge wire has more resistance than larger wire. Current always follows the path of least resistance. Just like water flowing downhill......

thanks for the reply,

i dont know what more to measure current... im totaly out of ideas! :crying
 

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You have to have a complete circuit to get any work done. A break in the wiring, is the same as an open switch. No current flow, no work. You have not measured current flow at any point in this discussion. Simply Voltage.... the potential to do work. Work only occurs when current flows.

Resistance slows current flow, and can stop it. No current, no work.

I = amperes. Current. You can only measure that when the meter is selected to amperes, and the leads are placed in line with where you think the current should be flowing. More difficult to do than poking around looking at voltages.

Resistance is where the issue is more likely to be. Where ever you can, take apart the electrical connectors and inspect the contacts. If you see any powdery residue in there -- grayish, or greenish, or the reddish color we see with Iron rust..... almost all rust by products do not conduct electricity as well as metal without rust. Bright shiny metal doesn't have rust on it. Dull, fuzzy, furry discolored contacts, do.

If you powder coated the frame, you almost certainly blocked the flow of electricity to the battery on the 'ground' side of the circuit. Paint or powder coat is an insulator. No current will flow through it. Work back from the battery, and follow the negative cable to the point where it attaches to the frame. Take that bolt off, and look at the metal where the cable is supposed to mount. Rust, paint, plastic...... none of that is good. Bright shiny metal.

Take a picture, and show us what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You have to have a complete circuit to get any work done. A break in the wiring, is the same as an open switch. No current flow, no work. You have not measured current flow at any point in this discussion. Simply Voltage.... the potential to do work. Work only occurs when current flows.

Resistance slows current flow, and can stop it. No current, no work.

I = amperes. Current. You can only measure that when the meter is selected to amperes, and the leads are placed in line with where you think the current should be flowing. More difficult to do than poking around looking at voltages.

Resistance is where the issue is more likely to be. Where ever you can, take apart the electrical connectors and inspect the contacts. If you see any powdery residue in there -- grayish, or greenish, or the reddish color we see with Iron rust..... almost all rust by products do not conduct electricity as well as metal without rust. Bright shiny metal doesn't have rust on it. Dull, fuzzy, furry discolored contacts, do.

If you powder coated the frame, you almost certainly blocked the flow of electricity to the battery on the 'ground' side of the circuit. Paint or powder coat is an insulator. No current will flow through it. Work back from the battery, and follow the negative cable to the point where it attaches to the frame. Take that bolt off, and look at the metal where the cable is supposed to mount. Rust, paint, plastic...... none of that is good. Bright shiny metal.

Take a picture, and show us what you have.
i removed the powdercoat at the groundcable is, its nice and clean aluminium, and been looking for cuts or whatever in any groundcables, i dont know what to do, can i measure the grounds or something? im only measure the plus to the battery and the negative to the frame and engine, and it reads the same, no voltdrops
 

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If you put your meter in Ohms, you can check to make sure current can flow. Resistance is the opposition to flow. I'll go into this more, later.
 

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ground wire on top of the engine
ground wire on top of the valve cover
connections on the battery clean and tight

But the stator is 3 phase.....unplug it and do the proper diagnostic test on each individual phase, both the resistance tests, grounds test with engine off
and the AC output test with the engine running and see what that gets you

at 13.8vdc output or whatever you are getting at the battery.....you obviously have output, just sounds like not enough (although I have seen plenty of bikes put out less without issue, a battery can only hold so much and the bike shouldn't be drawing shit tons withotu stupid electrical draw add ons......... the rest just gets wasted to ground)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
ground wire on top of the engine
ground wire on top of the valve cover
connections on the battery clean and tight

But the stator is 3 phase.....unplug it and do the proper diagnostic test on each individual phase, both the resistance tests, grounds test with engine off
and the AC output test with the engine running and see what that gets you

at 13.8vdc output or whatever you are getting at the battery.....you obviously have output, just sounds like not enough (although I have seen plenty of bikes put out less without issue, a battery can only hold so much and the bike shouldn't be drawing shit tons withotu stupid electrical draw add ons......... the rest just gets wasted to ground)


I've already checked the stator, i measured it and looked in the manual and the output was ok, but i replaced it anyways and the new one seems fine too.
can i in some way add extra groundcable?


really appreciate your arrangement
 
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