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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

2014 zx6r problem here:

I just replaced my valve shims after all the work of measuring and calculating etc.

I torqued down the cam caps as specified to 12 N-m and went about remeasuring the clearances. (I set the new shims so that the clearances were all on the higher end of intake and exhaust).

Intake: .13-.19mm and I calculated new shims for .19mm
Exhaust: .24-.31mm and I calculated new shims for .30mm

I used a micrometer to measure thickness.


Major Problem: my front left exhaust valve clearance is now ZERO, not even my .03mm feeler will go through.

General problem: some of my new clearances are kind of off from what I calculated they should be with the replacements, kind of random. BUT they are within spec.

I am going to remove the cam caps, take the shims out and reinstall everything but before that I want to know any of your thoughts on what may be causing this problem.
I loosened all the cam caps a bit and tried to slip my .03mm feeler gauge through the zero clearance exhaust valve again and its still at zero clearance!

My initial clearance for the front left exhaust clearance was .20mm so its not like my valves were shot from the beginning.

Any advice would be wonderful.



EDIT: for more info, I had to take out the camshafts and reinstall for this process (yes I set the engine at TDC and aligned the shafts to the engine frame and quadruple-checked)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My plan is to:
1) reinspect and clean the top end and cam cover profiles and then torque down again
2)check clearances again, do the whole adjustment process again and get new shims again (or switch around) to target my ideal clearance and then hopefully this works the second time
 

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Three different accuracies are involved.... your measurement of the gap, the old shim, and the new.

shim kits are notorious for being off center for their printed value. More like the parts are closer to halfway to the next value bucket that to the stated value.

if you have all oem shims to start with, your math might be somewhat close... if you used nothing but the printed values on all the shims..... more than likely you’re as bad or worse than when you started.

if your feeler gauges are not fine enough, you have error as a result of that as well.

if your shims have worn, they aren’t flat any more. The thickness in the middle is thinner than the edges a micrometer could measure.
 

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Thanks for the reply RJ, funny you commented here because I reread a piece of advice you gave on my last post (yes this adjustment has taken a while thanks to covid shipping)

You said:
One thing you will want to do!
Have a good inch lb tq wrench and after you measure and know you need to change shims- loosen all the cam caps slightly and then tq them with your wrench to the spec and remeasure- it will likely save you one extra time of swapping some of them a second time...


on my other discussion CORRECT SHIMS (valve adjustment)

Unfortunately I didn't do that but now that I've remeasured clearances while having the caps torqued down, I'm hoping this last shim swap will fix the issue.

I ordered shims from Pro X Racing and used a mitutoyo micrometer to measure shims.

Planning on finishing this weekend so I'll post back when results come in.

Thanks again
 

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Rotate the cams through 2 full crankshaft rotations before taking any measurements - seats everything. You may also have the shim off-center.
 

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"You said:
One thing you will want to do!
Have a good inch lb tq wrench and after you measure and know you need to change shims- loosen all the cam caps slightly and then tq them with your wrench to the spec and remeasure- it will likely save you one extra time of swapping some of them a second time...
"

^ Always a very important step!!!

I have never once found skipping this step to be useful or time saving!!!!!!!!!!
 
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