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72 Posts
Cox Racing Group radiator screen. $109.
What have you done to your bike today?
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Cox Racing Group radiator screen. $109.
Joined
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72 Posts
What did I do yesterday?
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire]()
![Tire Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle]()
![Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Waste container]()
Why? Its on its way to becoming a racebike. Kickstand is removed, front caliper bolts swapped out for black-oxide grade 10 SHCS (drilled for safety-wire) and axle pinch bolts to a M8 SHCS (drilled for safety-wire) and M8x11.8mmx3.24mm spacers so the bolt head is above the recess and I can pass tech without a fuss. Why change the caliper bolts? Titanium is soft and long racing experience says steel socket-head is the way to go to avoid stripped heads and stretched bolts.
EVAP and AIS coming off today (and hose plugs, catch-can, and AIS blockoff plates going in). Radiator remove and jacket flush today, the headers for the new full exhaust coming tomorrow, and when I reinstall the radiator, I have a Cox Racing screen protector to go on as well.
Later this week:
Why? Its on its way to becoming a racebike. Kickstand is removed, front caliper bolts swapped out for black-oxide grade 10 SHCS (drilled for safety-wire) and axle pinch bolts to a M8 SHCS (drilled for safety-wire) and M8x11.8mmx3.24mm spacers so the bolt head is above the recess and I can pass tech without a fuss. Why change the caliper bolts? Titanium is soft and long racing experience says steel socket-head is the way to go to avoid stripped heads and stretched bolts.
EVAP and AIS coming off today (and hose plugs, catch-can, and AIS blockoff plates going in). Radiator remove and jacket flush today, the headers for the new full exhaust coming tomorrow, and when I reinstall the radiator, I have a Cox Racing screen protector to go on as well.
Later this week:
- Race bodywork (Armor Bodies) fitment and paint (Axalta/DuPont)
- Full Race (Hindle, because I like the bike quieter on the track, lets me race at more tracks and sneak up on people)
- FTEcu flash and harness install
- Ohlins TTX rear
- Race Tech springs and Gold Valve (forks). The TTX30 fork carts are on backorder until Aug at least, so.
- Driven 520, 15/46 gearing, DID ERV3 114 links
- Woodcraft case guards/hardened case covers, rearsets and the FTEcu quickshifter in GP-shift
- Woodcraft clip-ons, superbike grips.
- Woodcraft mushroom sliders (way, way prefer this kind for actual crashing)
- cheapo FX CNC damper. If I think it sucks, I'll keep the mounts and get a used Ohlins from a donor Suzuki/eBay
- ignition key delete (bike will turn 'on' with killswitch. This was my setup on my last racebike, a GXSR 1K7, and I really don't want it any other way), so gas-cap swap too
I actually ordered one. Got my new radiator and noticed that it wasn’t a rock tho. My cage bolts had came loose and my cross bar pushed in on the fan and busted the radiator there . So a screen wouldn't have even helped. In that case anyways. Lol. Still glad I ordered the screen tho.
Joined
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72 Posts
Super cheap insurance, IMO. You can't always get a rad from eBay when you need one, and buying OEM is an invitation to a dilation.
Looks good, that was a quick turn around.
Also finished mine, two more f models still kicking.
Also finished mine, two more f models still kicking.
Attachments
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72 Posts
It's 6:34am CST (about to be CDT, finally). Today I'm planning to run the quickshifter wire from the tail/diagnostic port to the QS sensor, and finish constructing my replacement battery box. Then I'm going to paint the bodywork I finished fitting yesterday.
If I don't run out of daylight (yeah, I'm in my well-lit garage) I will start removing forks in prep for respringing/gold-valve, and along the way remove the top triple so I can remove the ignition switch/key.
Tomorrow I'll finish the forks and flash the ECU (multi-step process). Then I'll fit the (painted) bodywork for photos.
It won't be race-ready still - chain/sprockets and rear shock are still on order/in transit. And I have to change the oil and drill the plug for safetywire (and the cap, too).
If I don't run out of daylight (yeah, I'm in my well-lit garage) I will start removing forks in prep for respringing/gold-valve, and along the way remove the top triple so I can remove the ignition switch/key.
Tomorrow I'll finish the forks and flash the ECU (multi-step process). Then I'll fit the (painted) bodywork for photos.
It won't be race-ready still - chain/sprockets and rear shock are still on order/in transit. And I have to change the oil and drill the plug for safetywire (and the cap, too).
Joined
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72 Posts
8 hours later, and I'm between the 2nd and 3rd coats of candy red mid (it's not a candy apple, it's much more like wine). After that flashes and sets, I'll get the black (bellypan, undertail, and fender legs) and I'm out of the paint shop. I kinda effed up on some of the masking and didn't leave as many white streaks as I'd laid out with my artist daughter, but i'll chalk it up to reducer-fume high.
Joined
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3,293 Posts
Ordered R&G frame sliders with the included expansion bottle. Really want to protect what I have and the R&G quality seems pretty top notch.
Also; considering either buying old used fairings (at least ones i dont have in my broken parts bin) or learning how to make fiberglass ones to fab together a cheap set for track use. I'd like to keep the fairings that i just fixed in the best condition over the long term.
We shall see.
Also; considering either buying old used fairings (at least ones i dont have in my broken parts bin) or learning how to make fiberglass ones to fab together a cheap set for track use. I'd like to keep the fairings that i just fixed in the best condition over the long term.
We shall see.
Joined
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72 Posts
The color's thrown, now I gotta let it skin and I'll throw clear at it.
Stopping at the red:
The red/white/black and black pieces:
Stopping at the red:
The red/white/black and black pieces:
Joined
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287 Posts
Hahah werent we just talking about this in another thread?
I will take Riverzzr place here and say "chineseum crap garbage blah blah blah" so he doesnt have to lol
Hey. I never said it was quality shit lol. My cost through the dealership was 3x the price. And no date for the back order so dint want the down time. Blah blah. (I’m cheap). . What’s crazy is I ordered this same exact radiator from the exact same people for a guys 20 and it fit perfectly. This one. Mounting tabs was too thick for the clamp capture bolts. Had to tweak my radiator bracket to fit. And idk wtf they did with these mounting holes for overflow. This one has two and neither one in the right spot. So I got a 1/4x1 strip of alluminum to bolt to those and thread the hole for the Catch can holder into that bracket . Or rivet in a thread insert. Either way I’m getting it on here tonight lol.
these bikes are already a pain in the ass to replace the radiators and that’s when it actually fits. Good thing about China shit on Amazon is they will gladly refund you whatever the troubles cost is so you don’t leave a review telling everyone how much shit you go through to make it fit
does look like it’s beefier and the cooling fins are for sure bigger and it’s a tad wider. I keep forgetting to ask if it lowered the temp any on the guys bike I installed. Being a stunt bike I can use all the cooling help I can get lol.
I will post pics of my fancy bracket after I eat and bitch about China junk till I cool down.
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72 Posts
Okay, hanging overnight to dry. There is 1/4" silver tape separating all the colors, but the black/white lines were good-enough I didn't need it!
Mistakes were made, old lessons relearned, and I ran out of white.
Here's some porn:
![Umbrella Wood Vehicle registration plate Road surface Flooring]()
![Wood Aircraft Flooring Monoplane Surfboard]()
![Wood Interior design Flooring Easel Art]()
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior]()
![Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Flooring]()
Mistakes were made, old lessons relearned, and I ran out of white.
Here's some porn:
Joined
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287 Posts
Hahah I had to man! It was just to good to not. Sounds like as my friend would say TMW aka Too much work. I would have gladly paid for the oem to avoid all that but you have the means and maybe even after you calculate your time and materials to fix it you will still end up ahead. 😛
I have seen on ebay some radiators that are made brand new out of aluminium they run like 100 bucks. Have you had any experience with those? I will link one so you know what I am talking about.
For Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R ZX636 ZX-6R Aluminum Radiator 2013-18 39061-0583 Racing | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R ZX636 ZX-6R Aluminum Radiator 2013-18 39061-0583 Racing at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
Lol I never come out aheadHahah I had to man! It was just to good to not. Sounds like as my friend would say TMW aka Too much work. I would have gladly paid for the oem to avoid all that but you have the means and maybe even after you calculate your time and materials to fix it you will still end up ahead. 😛
I have seen on ebay some radiators that are made brand new out of aluminium they run like 100 bucks. Have you had any experience with those? I will link one so you know what I am talking about.
For Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R ZX636 ZX-6R Aluminum Radiator 2013-18 39061-0583 Racing | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R ZX636 ZX-6R Aluminum Radiator 2013-18 39061-0583 Racing at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.ca
that looks exactly like the same one I bought. Same cap even. Think I paid 90$ on Amazon
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287 Posts
Right on that one didnt but a lot of similar ones have american flags in the picture leading you to beleive they are made in the US guess you just helped me prove they are not.
I was kind of interested since it claims better cooling and if made from aluminium should be lighter than OEM?
I was kind of interested since it claims better cooling and if made from aluminium should be lighter than OEM?
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