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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Is there any OEM parts websites that will supply the "headstock" (?) bearing and swingarm bearing?

I've honestly no idea what I'm looking for, and fear I'm going to buy the wrong part (2006 zx6r/636).
 

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Any of the OEM parts houses should provide the correct bearings and races.

until you take it apart and inspect, or notice any notches or other issues which prevent smooth movement…. You may only need to re-pack the bearings with fresh grease.

That is a simple process that can be done by hand without any tools.

ReInstalling the bearings will require the proper toque be applied. That’s a matter of touch and experience.
 

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With steering neck bearings, the lower set is almost always the one which has the most damage. Lloyd or KevA will correct me on this if I misstate; OEM application of grease is minimal, and it’s an awkward place to get to so they’re frequently ignored.

Gravity will cause any moisture that gets in the steering neck, to the bottom of the tube. That will usually cause more corrosion in the lower bearing set compared to the upper. Large numbers of wheelies will also have a tendency to concentrate damage to the lower bearing set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
With steering neck bearings, the lower set is almost always the one which has the most damage. Lloyd or KevA will correct me on this if I misstate; OEM application of grease is minimal, and it’s an awkward place to get to so they’re frequently ignored.

Gravity will cause any moisture that gets in the steering neck, to the bottom of the tube. That will usually cause more corrosion in the lower bearing set compared to the upper. Large numbers of wheelies will also have a tendency to concentrate damage to the lower bearing set.
If the price isn't silly, I'm honestly just thinking of buying the replacement headstock & swingarm bearings, and just fully replacing them. If I'm going to remove the whole bike to pieces to ge to them, I may as well just replace them, I think? Please by all means tell me if this is a daft idea.
 

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It’s the best answer. That will require a few specific tools to accomplish which is where some expense may lie. If you’re only going to use the tool once, it is imho more difficult to justify the expense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It’s the best answer. That will require a few specific tools to accomplish which is where some expense may lie. If you’re only going to use the tool once, it is imho more difficult to justify the expense.
What I'm thinking, is if I can at least remove the swing arm, I'll take it to a garage for them to do the swap.

As for headstock, I've no clue how I'll remove that
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Probably a silly question, but, if I remove my crash bung things that stick out the side of the bike, do I need to purchase shorter bolts? Or will the ones that are currently in the R&G set ok to go back in without purchasing shorter ones?
 

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Probably a silly question, but, if I remove my crash bung things that stick out the side of the bike, do I need to purchase shorter bolts? Or will the ones that are currently in the R&G set ok to go back in without purchasing shorter ones?
I'd buy the shorter OEM bolts, to be certain of the outcome.

It's probably not that much of a difference, however I would be concerned with the bolt end hitting the engine if the longer one were used. Plus, you don't really know what the metallurgy is on the bolt from the bung kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I'd buy the shorter OEM bolts, to be certain of the outcome.

It's probably not that much of a difference, however I would be concerned with the bolt end hitting the engine if the longer one were used. Plus, you don't really know what the metallurgy is on the bolt from the bung kit.
OK yeah fair point, noted, I'll just suck it up and buy 2 new bolts 👍🏻
 

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I'd buy the shorter OEM bolts, to be certain of the outcome.
Agreed. And I'd be concerned in the other direction, too -- I purchased frame sliders for my N400 and they reused the existing engine mount bolts while shortening the "reach" into the aluminum threads dangerously so, IMO -- thread reach for steel into aluminum should be about 3x the thread diameter (and in fact is that way for the OEM bolts) -- too short and you can strip the aluminum at (full) torque, and too long and you can "shoulder" the bolt and get a false torque reading because you have run out of thread headroom. I actually (minimally) torqued the bolts with anti-seize compound and then removed them to get a good visual view of the actual thread reach when I replaced the bolts with longer ones -- see image below (top bolt is too short for threading into aluminum) -- be sure to use good steel, like class 12.9. And of course, as @RJ2112 pointed out, you have to be sure you have clearance behind the bolt and you're not hitting anything if your bolt is longer.

Office supplies Font Auto part Cylinder Cosmetics
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
So I've split my calipers apart, removed all pistons & rubber seals etc. and going to buy a rebuild kit which includes pistons too, but, I've noticed there is some corrosion in the grooves where the rubber seals sit... isit ok for me to go in there with a wire wheel, or is there risk of damaging the hole the pistons sit in? I'm going to attack the outside of the calipers with the wire wheel and respray the calipers myself over winter (I'll properly tape everything up).
 

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I will rely on the professional mechanics for a definitive answer on this, as brakes are IMHO the most important control on the bike.

Having qualified my opinion, the depth of any pitting you find will determine if the right answer is tossing the part.
 
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