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I own a 2011 zx6r and I am currently at 12,000 miles. I am going to do my periodic maintenance now. The place I get my bike worked on said I should adjust my valves at 12k last time I took it in but the owners manual says 15k. I ride it somewhat hard would it matter if I adjust them early or should I just wait?
 

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You can never go wrong doing them in shorter intervals.
 

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There is no "hard ridden" section of the manual of course, and ive always just gone by the manual, its really up to you, if the valves were gonna out of spec at 15k, they are gonna be out of spec at 12, its all up to you.

if you plan on riding for a while and doing your own maintenance, invest in one of these.
Hot Cams Valve Shim Kit - Motorcycle Superstore

you can always buy individual shims from the dealer for like 12$ a pop, or can swap out of spec shims back and forth. but eventually the cost of the kit will pay for itself.

id also buy a nice set of feelers, yes your gonna bend them but the nicer ones are easier to use. a magnetic tool to pick up the buckets.
 

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BUy the shims (oem) from Honda, they are about 60% the cost as they are from kawasaki.

Don't buy one of the stupid aftermarket kits!!!
A) you won't use 95% of what is in there
B) they suck ass since they are barely surface hardened
C) the fitment (quality control in sizing) sucks ass
D) they only come in .05mm jumps (.002") where as oe shims come in .025mm (.001") increments

for the $80 or so the kit costs, you could buy atleast 13 good oem shims from any Honda dealer (any 7.5mm shimmed bike takes the same shims, just varies in thickness....so look up a CBR600RR, CBR1000RR to get oe part numbers)...besides you may get 6 shims out of that entire kit that work on your one bike, then you have to buy replacement kits for more money...
 
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BUy the shims (oem) from Honda, they are about 60% the cost as they are from kawasaki.

Don't buy one of the stupid aftermarket kits!!!
A) you won't use 95% of what is in there
B) they suck ass since they are barely surface hardened
C) the fitment (quality control in sizing) sucks ass
D) they only come in .05mm jumps (.002") where as oe shims come in .025mm (.001") increments

for the $80 or so the kit costs, you could buy atleast 13 good oem shims from any Honda dealer (any 7.5mm shimmed bike takes the same shims, just varies in thickness....so look up a CBR600RR, CBR1000RR to get oe part numbers)...besides you may get 6 shims out of that entire kit that work on your one bike, then you have to buy replacement kits for more money...
wow yeah, i knew the other shims would fit, but i figured they would all be the same price, my local dealer wanted 13$ per, so i figured id be better off buying the kit. i had no fitment issues however. also the .05 difference was more then enough to get my valve well with in spec, unless you are shooting for a certain spec, shouldnt the .05mm ones be fine?
 

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BUy the shims (oem) from Honda, they are about 60% the cost as they are from kawasaki.

Don't buy one of the stupid aftermarket kits!!!
A) you won't use 95% of what is in there
B) they suck ass since they are barely surface hardened
C) the fitment (quality control in sizing) sucks ass
D) they only come in .05mm jumps (.002") where as oe shims come in .025mm (.001") increments

for the $80 or so the kit costs, you could buy atleast 13 good oem shims from any Honda dealer (any 7.5mm shimmed bike takes the same shims, just varies in thickness....so look up a CBR600RR, CBR1000RR to get oe part numbers)...besides you may get 6 shims out of that entire kit that work on your one bike, then you have to buy replacement kits for more money...

Well well I'm glad I scrolled down & read this^,
From time to time really good info can be found on this forum.
& thats some useful info right here, So the aftermarket kit is shit & I can go to the Honda shop & save 40% on shims.
Thank you good man.

I may end up having to do engine work to the bike (rings) if so I'll just get the valves done then.
But after, I have resigned myself to doing my own valve adjustments.
I think it's time I stepped up to the plate & took a swing at this.:sigh:
 
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wow yeah, i knew the other shims would fit, but i figured they would all be the same price, my local dealer wanted 13$ per, so i figured id be better off buying the kit. i had no fitment issues however. also the .05 difference was more then enough to get my valve well with in spec, unless you are shooting for a certain spec, shouldnt the .05mm ones be fine?
My main concern with what rivers said, Is the hardening of the shims.
They take a hell of a pounding in the motor, Any ?? about there hardiness should be enough to rule them out.
 

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wow yeah, i knew the other shims would fit, but i figured they would all be the same price, my local dealer wanted 13$ per, so i figured id be better off buying the kit. i had no fitment issues however. also the .05 difference was more then enough to get my valve well with in spec, unless you are shooting for a certain spec, shouldnt the .05mm ones be fine?
"shouldnt the .05mm ones be fine?[/"


sure if you don't care what your valves are set at? If "within spec" is good enough...

Why spend the time to actually do the job and put in 100% effort to only achieve 75% of the result?

Do the job right and completely and set them at a specific clearance for all of them

Those aftermarket shims, fall right into the retaining washer-but vary in diameter and in thickness even amongst the exact same printed size....again----DONT WASTE YOU MONEY ON THOSE KITS!
 

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My main concern with what rivers said, Is the hardening of the shims.
They take a hell of a pounding in the motor, Any ?? about there hardiness should be enough to rule them out.
OEM shims are hardened all the way through-so in reality you could sand off as much as you want to get a smaller size and it still would be hardened
The aftermarket shims are routinely only surface hardened and some as little as .001"-so the tiny valve head (3.0mm contact area, and tiny dimple under the bucket 4.0-4.5mm depending on manufacturer) pound the hell out of them--just look at them and you can see the indentations-get a micrometer with a small enough tip on both faces and you can easily measure the "dents"
 

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the hotcams are made out of 4140, i have a hard time believing they are some how sufficiently weaker then oem stuff? chomoly steel is tough stuff?
Believe whatever you want
 

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"shouldnt the .05mm ones be fine?[/"


sure if you don't care what your valves are set at? If "within spec" is good enough...

Why spend the time to actually do the job and put in 100% effort to only achieve 75% of the result?

Do the job right and completely and set them at a specific clearance for all of them

Those aftermarket shims, fall right into the retaining washer-but vary in diameter and in thickness even amongst the exact same printed size....again----DONT WASTE YOU MONEY ON THOSE KITS!
well i have the kit and i dont mind the work, so ill pop the valve cover at 35k and see where they are, thanks for the advice.
 

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the hotcams are made out of 4140, i have a hard time believing they are some how sufficiently weaker then oem stuff? chomoly steel is tough stuff?
I personally have no clue, But I do trust what rivers has to say.

& the economics of it make since too.
 

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Believe whatever you want
lol. why is questioning someones advice considered traitorous here or some shit. some people prefer tangible evidence to opinion. obviously you have "miles under your belt" but what good is that to me when im doing research to find some flaw in a product i might of bought.
 

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I personally have no clue, But I do trust what rivers has to say.

& the economics of it make since too.
mass production vs a specialized market. no the economics do not make sense lol.
 

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How difficult is it to do your own valves? I'm not particularly mechanical but I want to learn and I don't want to pay someone 700 bucks to do something I could do myself.
 

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its pretty easy as long as you read the manual or watch some good tutorials online so that you are very familiar with the process before you even start, take your time, go slow and ensure you dont drop anything. you have to remove alot of bolts from the top end in order to get the cams out, dropping one some where would be shitty. as long as you have a very clean work space, organize your things, and take you time, you should be fine.
 

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its pretty easy as long as you read the manual or watch some good tutorials online so that you are very familiar with the process before you even start, take your time, go slow and ensure you dont drop anything. you have to remove alot of bolts from the top end in order to get the cams out, dropping one some where would be shitty. as long as you have a very clean work space, organize your things, and take you time, you should be fine.
How long should I allot myself? Is it a whole day ordeal given Im a noob?
 

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How long should I allot myself? Is it a whole day ordeal given Im a noob?
oh i would definitely start on an early saturday morning, the process can be time consuming. i think i did it in 5 hours, but i had the hotcams kit so it went a little quicker? short breaks here and there. but you need to allow enough time to get the dealership to buy shims if you need them and want to go that route. id double check each valve to ensure you get them all down, so you dont need more then one trip to the dealer. save your old shims by the way, you may be able to use them next time. like Riverzzr said, if you can get the honda ones for 5-6$ thats not a bad deal at all.
 

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mass production vs a specialized market. no the economics do not make sense lol.
The company that makes that valve kit, (& I did look at the link) How long have they been making them?

I see what your saying, An aftermarket seat, brake lines, grips, etc etc.. yeah your going to find better in the aftermarket.
But something where the investment in the tooling is as considerable as this,
I would prefer to go with the company that's in it for the long haul. ..Our bikes are mass produced.

But who am I to say, Rivers has already said enough on it.
 
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