So I am reading through my service manual and thinking about doing this service myself.Nice! I've been using this image for the last few years:
I just print it out and mark it as I go, and actually place the old and new shims right on the paper as I measure them. Just change the clearances to be what it should be for your bike. Those clearances are for my 2014 ZX10R which I just did last week:
So I am reading through my service manual and thinking about doing this service myself.
The couple of questions I have are
1. I have not found a how to or exploded diagram of exactly where and how the shims are removed.
2. What do I use to figure out what shim needs to be used??? Example: I know the equation is current shim + measured valve clearance - specified clearance. but for specified clearance do I use .24 or .31(exhaust) or just a random number in the middle
IF you need to remove the cams after inspecting it's really pretty easy.I should have been more specific, I know they are under the cams but are they in plain view with the cams out? Any special tools needed to remove or install the shims themselves?
I do the same.... shoot right for the middle of the spec range. I'd rather be perfectly in spec than on the higher or lower end of the spectrum.I think there are a few different schools of thought as to whether you should shoot for the higher or lower end of the range on either the intake or exhaust for a few different reasons. For example, if you go with the lower end of the spec the valve will stay open ever so slightly longer, but I'm not sure the gain you can get from manipulating the upper or lower end of the clearances would actually be measurable. Another way to look at it is our valve clearances will most likely get smaller over time. So, you might want to put them at the upper end of the range so they will stay in spec longer. The exhaust valves usually will go out of spec much sooner than the intake (lot more heat).
Personally, I shoot right for the center of the range if I possibly can get it there. That's not always possible because the shims aren't that granular but I try to get as close as I can to center of the range. Technically if you are in the range you are good, but like I said, if you are on the lower end of the range chances are it would be a shorter time before that valve will go out of spec. I'm sure rivers would have a better answer for you have I have a feeling he might be on vacation?
Not positive on YOUR bike but on mine the bolt to turn the crank shaft is a safety style "torx". So you'll want to make sure you have the right size torx bit with the hole in the center in order to turn the shaft. You'll also need a decent torque wrench that goes pretty low into the in/lbs. The cam caps torque down to 106 inch lbs on my bike. I'm sure it's the same on yours or close. I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench for these jobs.Thanks guys, I think I will end up doing the service myself, is there any special tools needed other than a micrometer (I think that's what it is called)?
I've also used the HotCam shim kits without any issues.Shims are a hot debate topic, much like oil. The guys that do this work for a living swear by the OEM shims as being much better and more granular. They are more expensive however (around 10 bucks each). So if you don't know someone who has a supply of them (bike shop) you might have to wait a few days after you figure out what you need and order them. I personally have used the Hot Cams kit that I bought off Amazon for 60 bucks without a problem (I will get roasted for saying that). Upside is they are cheap at only around $1 each and I can have a supply on hand. Downside is they are only in .05mm increments. I find that to be good enough for me when I mix them with OEM shims that I've removed, I can get in the ballpark of where I want. Regardless of what shim you use do not go by the number printed on the shim. Measure each one with your caliper/micrometer and compare with what you measured on the one in the bike.
Look in your owners manual at the maintenance schedule.after how many km on a brand new bike should i do valve adjustments ?