[09ZX-6R]

http://db.tt/nGCBnBxE

 

[bodyCount]

Thanks !! Thats nicely done

 

[trackdayhero]

Nice! I've been using this image for the last few years:

I just print it out and mark it as I go, and actually place the old and new shims right on the paper as I measure them. Just change the clearances to be what it should be for your bike. Those clearances are for my 2014 ZX10R which I just did last week:

 

[05christj]

Nice! I've been using this image for the last few years:

I just print it out and mark it as I go, and actually place the old and new shims right on the paper as I measure them. Just change the clearances to be what it should be for your bike. Those clearances are for my 2014 ZX10R which I just did last week:

So I am reading through my service manual and thinking about doing this service myself.

The couple of questions I have are

1. I have not found a how to or exploded diagram of exactly where and how the shims are removed.

2. What do I use to figure out what shim needs to be used??? Example: I know the equation is current shim + measured valve clearance - specified clearance. but for specified clearance do I use .24 or .31(exhaust) or just a random number in the middle

 

[05christj]

I should have been more specific, I know they are under the cams but are they in plain view with the cams out? Any special tools needed to remove or install the shims themselves?

 

[trackdayhero]

I think there are a few different schools of thought as to whether you should shoot for the higher or lower end of the range on either the intake or exhaust for a few different reasons. For example, if you go with the lower end of the spec the valve will stay open ever so slightly longer, but I'm not sure the gain you can get from manipulating the upper or lower end of the clearances would actually be measurable. Another way to look at it is our valve clearances will most likely get smaller over time. So, you might want to put them at the upper end of the range so they will stay in spec longer. The exhaust valves usually will go out of spec much sooner than the intake (lot more heat).

Personally, I shoot right for the center of the range if I possibly can get it there. That's not always possible because the shims aren't that granular but I try to get as close as I can to center of the range. Technically if you are in the range you are good, but like I said, if you are on the lower end of the range chances are it would be a shorter time before that valve will go out of spec. I'm sure rivers would have a better answer for you have I have a feeling he might be on vacation?

 

[PowerGroove]

So I am reading through my service manual and thinking about doing this service myself.

The couple of questions I have are

1. I have not found a how to or exploded diagram of exactly where and how the shims are removed.

2. What do I use to figure out what shim needs to be used??? Example: I know the equation is current shim + measured valve clearance - specified clearance. but for specified clearance do I use .24 or .31(exhaust) or just a random number in the middle

I should have been more specific, I know they are under the cams but are they in plain view with the cams out? Any special tools needed to remove or install the shims themselves?

IF you need to remove the cams after inspecting it's really pretty easy.

You'll remove the cam caps and the cams will come free. Secure the cam chain so that it doesn't get too slacked and/or fall into the crevice (not bad... justa PITA to get back out if it falls in there too far). Pull the cams out and place on work bench.

Once the cams are out you won't see the shims. You'll see the "bucket" that covers the valve spring and the shim will be under that. I use a little magnet stick/pointer and just pull the "bucket" up. Usually the shim sticks to the under side of the bucket since it's got a magnet on the other end of it.

I think there are a few different schools of thought as to whether you should shoot for the higher or lower end of the range on either the intake or exhaust for a few different reasons. For example, if you go with the lower end of the spec the valve will stay open ever so slightly longer, but I'm not sure the gain you can get from manipulating the upper or lower end of the clearances would actually be measurable. Another way to look at it is our valve clearances will most likely get smaller over time. So, you might want to put them at the upper end of the range so they will stay in spec longer. The exhaust valves usually will go out of spec much sooner than the intake (lot more heat).

Personally, I shoot right for the center of the range if I possibly can get it there. That's not always possible because the shims aren't that granular but I try to get as close as I can to center of the range. Technically if you are in the range you are good, but like I said, if you are on the lower end of the range chances are it would be a shorter time before that valve will go out of spec. I'm sure rivers would have a better answer for you have I have a feeling he might be on vacation?

I do the same.... shoot right for the middle of the spec range. I'd rather be perfectly in spec than on the higher or lower end of the spectrum.

 

[trackdayhero]

Oh regarding pulling the cams and reinstalling make sure you follow the service manual and understand everything in it. There is a specified order to torquing the cam cap bolts (among much other very important information). As far as pulling the shims out themselves I use a magnet to pull the bucket and shim out together. The cam lobe pushes down on the bucket which pushes down on the shim which pushes down on the top of the valve. There is a section in your service manual for both valve clearance inspection, and valve clearance adjustment. The adjustment chapter will refer you to the cam removal chapter.

 

[05christj]

Thanks guys, I think I will end up doing the service myself, is there any special tools needed other than a micrometer (I think that's what it is called)?

 

[PowerGroove]

Thanks guys, I think I will end up doing the service myself, is there any special tools needed other than a micrometer (I think that's what it is called)?

Not positive on YOUR bike but on mine the bolt to turn the crank shaft is a safety style "torx". So you'll want to make sure you have the right size torx bit with the hole in the center in order to turn the shaft. You'll also need a decent torque wrench that goes pretty low into the in/lbs. The cam caps torque down to 106 inch lbs on my bike. I'm sure it's the same on yours or close. I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench for these jobs.

Aside from that... I can't think of anything special. Just make sure you've got some high temp RTV and new valve cover & spark plug gaskets. Better to have them and not need them :O

 

[trackdayhero]

PowerGroove pretty much hit it. Just a good set of feeler/thickness gauges is the only other special tool you should need. Cover your intake ports and the passage where the cam chain goes down along with the two oil passages on the top front part of the head, and the spark plug holes to prevent anything from falling into them (like a shim). If you take real care in marking the position of your cams when you have #1 at TDC before you pull them out you can be very confident they are in the correct position when you put them back in, and getting them back in the proper position is extremely important.

 

[05christj]

Can anybody point me in the direction of a good shim kit. I know it would take some time but could I order individual sizes once I know what shims I need to avoid possibly having to order another kit mid way through.

 

[trackdayhero]

Shims are a hot debate topic, much like oil. The guys that do this work for a living swear by the OEM shims as being much better and more granular. They are more expensive however (around 10 bucks each). So if you don't know someone who has a supply of them (bike shop) you might have to wait a few days after you figure out what you need and order them. I personally have used the Hot Cams kit that I bought off Amazon for 60 bucks without a problem (I will get roasted for saying that). Upside is they are cheap at only around $1 each and I can have a supply on hand. Downside is they are only in .05mm increments. I find that to be good enough for me when I mix them with OEM shims that I've removed, I can get in the ballpark of where I want. Regardless of what shim you use do not go by the number printed on the shim. Measure each one with your caliper/micrometer and compare with what you measured on the one in the bike.

 

[norcalzx6r]

If you don't already own one, get a good quality inch/pound 1/4 drive Torque Wrench.

This is a Must Have...

Precision Instruments: M1R50H

 

[norcalzx6r]

Shims are a hot debate topic, much like oil. The guys that do this work for a living swear by the OEM shims as being much better and more granular. They are more expensive however (around 10 bucks each). So if you don't know someone who has a supply of them (bike shop) you might have to wait a few days after you figure out what you need and order them. I personally have used the Hot Cams kit that I bought off Amazon for 60 bucks without a problem (I will get roasted for saying that). Upside is they are cheap at only around $1 each and I can have a supply on hand. Downside is they are only in .05mm increments. I find that to be good enough for me when I mix them with OEM shims that I've removed, I can get in the ballpark of where I want. Regardless of what shim you use do not go by the number printed on the shim. Measure each one with your caliper/micrometer and compare with what you measured on the one in the bike.

I've also used the HotCam shim kits without any issues.

Once you have all the measurements see which shims you can reuse and take the others to the Bike Dealer and swap them with what you need.
They might swap them for FREE

 

[SaugaCityZx6]

after how many km on a brand new bike should i do valve adjustments ?

 

[PowerGroove]

after how many km on a brand new bike should i do valve adjustments ?

Look in your owners manual at the maintenance schedule.

 

[CKwik240]

Modified the original form to do the calculations for you. Its also laid out more in-line with the current ZX6R engine layout if looking from behind the bike. It will open to the instruction page first. The worksheet is on the second tab. I've added some more fields in hopes that it will make it easier. It can be used as a manual sheet, but if you take the data and enter it into the spreadsheet, it will check your numbers. If anyone finds and problems or has any suggestions, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

[CheekyMonkey]

I have an issue with getting cylinder #4 at TDC I have #1 at TDC right now but it won't turn counter-clockwise or clockwise anymore. Anyone know what's up?

 

[CheekyMonkey]

BTW I have checked the engine is in neutral clearances on the valves are running 0.038?