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Discussion Starter #21
New stand already in the garage! Feels much better, got it used.

I have taken it all apart again, and I have the part of the side fairing that is scratched and cracked on my table. I've repaired the crack for now, but I just need to figure out what to do about the scratches on the physical level.

They protrude and have indents, and I can't plasti dip it until I get the surface physically smooth.
For plasti dip to stick and come out well, how should I correct the scratches?

Thanks guys! Feels better to be fixing this up.

-Mike
 

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If it's the matt black you probably won't be happy if you do the job yourself. It does sound much easier to just replace the part if it bothers you that much. I think it doesn't look too bad the way it is though.

Anyway, what stand did you get?

I've been thinking of ordering an abba stand or Bursig 馃敟



 

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Cool, good calls.

I do have scratches though, what do you think I should do to make the surface smoother? Should I sand just that part? I am concerned it would show up in the end on even a good plasti dip set of coats as 3D features...Should I maybe sand the protrusions and fill in the gaps with something? I need to first fix the piece before I can coat it, my scratches are relatively deep, but not huge gouges.
Yes, if there are peaks and valleys it will show through. So I would do some sanding and make those areas smooth first.

So I do have to get the crack together first, then I will go about coating the piece.

Any more tips appreciated.
-Mike
I would probably use JB Weld to fix the crack. Put a good amount of it behind the crack as well for reinforcement.

You can also use JB Weld for filling in scratches, because it can be sanded. Or you can just use some type of bondo.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ah, yeah so I have done some work!
I found plastic specific JB weld, says specifically it works good for motorycle and car pieces, so hopefully it will come out well. It is drying right now.

I did take the left side matching piece, and I put so far 3 coats of plasti dip black on it, and its drying as well. I can get a picture or two of it after the 3 coats tonight when I get back home.

As it's plasti dip, if I don't like it, I can just peel it off. But, even after the first coat or two, the finish is absolutely on point. Once even the first coat dried, it looked immaculate, and side by side with the other piece with no paint on it, they look extremely similar under my garage's LED light tree. The finish of course was slightly different, but it really does look really close. I was actually quite shocked. After 3 coats, when I get home, I think it will look very very good.

I did leave the "ZX-6R" sticker on the still good piece which is the one I am painting first, so there is a physical outline on the plastidip in the shape of the sticker. I did this more as a test than a final product, but in all honesty, if it comes out really well, I think I may just purchase a new sticker set and put a new sticker right over the old one under the paint, so that the height difference won't be visible. But if there is any imperfections or I missed an area, I would then just peel it off, take the sticker off, and re dip it.

I decided to test the plasti dip on the good piece and test the JB weld for plastics on the broken piece so that I wasn't testing both products on one piece together, potentially with not enough time for one product or the other to cure completely. I put both pieces by the heater in my garage to help them cure a little better as well.

I will try to get some pictures in good light tonight, and I will do a before and after if all goes well. I really do think this will come out well. My goal is to make the bike look great in pictures, not necessarily to the naked eye when you walk up to it.

Definitely considering race fairings for the track so I can keep my OEMs as pristine as possible, would suck to grind down over a thousand bucks worth of plastic from a low side, and I think full race plastic kits are in the 4-500 dollar range if I remember. Or might just get some cheap ass random fairings for track too.

Really excited to get this back together, if the JB weld fails on the crack, I wouldn't be too upset, a crack is small and harder to see especially with the late style for bodywork with all the sharp lines and whatnot, I just want the scratches gone, and I think that is totally attainable.

Thanks for all the tips guys, I think I have a solution that will exceed my expectations, all that is left is to execute it correctly. Really excited to take the bike out this weekend, we got a small group ride going into Phoenix for some shenanigans!

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #25
104464


Top is scratched and cracked piece, bottom is pristine one with sticker under the plasti-dip layer, with 3 coats, fully cured. I am extremely happy with this outcome! I would not care if the matte black on this piece didnt exactly match another matte black on the bike, but this is WAY closer than I thought any random rattle can job could be.

And even better, if I decide to just pick up a new part, the other one that is still good I can just peel off the coat, and it will match exactly again. Best of both worlds!

I plan on sanding the epoxy on the crack, and sanding the scratches. Good call on filling in the scratches with the epoxy, depending on how well sanding the crack goes, I will use the same stuff.
If this goes as planned, the top piece should be a nearly identical mirror of the bottom one in the next day.

For 7 bucks, some careful surface prep and cleaning, this is outstanding. Will update with further discoveries.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So I have done some sanding, plasti dipping, and rebuilt the bodywork completely.
I'll admit that I didn't put in as much effort as I probably should have, I only used a couple grits of sand paper, hit the stupid spray can on the piece when spraying (DOH!) and sanded the epoxy as best I could in a short time.

All that aside, the results are super pleasing! I put on I think 4 or maybe 5 coats on the damaged piece just to help level the apparent surface, and it worked great. I did clean the parts with %100 iso alcohol, and sanded the epoxy that was on the showing side of the fairing. The plasti dip surface on both panels has maybe 3-5 imperfection spots on each one, like a dust spec under a layer, or the spot I hit, or a gouge I didn't totally level out with sanding, but they're all point flaws, and from any distance at all, are invisible.

From any distance or at a glance, it all looks completely factory. The dipped surfaces are kind of a rubbery texture, which was to be expected, but looks like it attracts dust in general. No big deal, a damp rag cleans it right up.

For a totally half-assed job with screw-ups all along the way, and for my first repair of this nature, I am extremely pleased. The only thing I need to watch for is if the crack re-splits. The JB weld for plastic felt super tough when sanding, not as brittle as the regular gray stuff, but very strong. Almost a hair flexible too. In the past, every crack repair I tried to do just split as soon as I remounted the fairing, but even handling the fairing when I was reassembling other parts and getting all the pop connectors in, it stayed together. So I guess we'll see how well it stays after a couple rides.

Looks like my new brake lever shipped hopefully today, so that will be on the way, then after that the bike should look almost good as new. I'll have to get a good look at it under the sun, but here's how she looks now. I tried to get the lighting so it made the imperfections most visible in this picture. What do you guys think? Before and after.
104468

104467
 

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Nice!

I would definitely recommend getting at least 6 - 8 coats of Plasti Dip on each piece though. There are two reasons for this, 1. it will be more durable, and 2. it will peal off better/easier when the time comes to remove it. (If there aren't enough coats/thickness, it breaks into little pieces when you try to peal it off.)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yeah, I didn't quite put 6-8 coats on the pieces, but towards the end I was quite liberal with the coat thickness. I had tape covering some of the rubber fairing hardware pieces, and when I peeled the tape off, the plasti dip layer looked plenty thick for ease of peel off and durability. If it is not durable, I'll just do it again :cool:

Got in multiple rides today, good mix of type of riding, and got up to some higher speeds, and the crack is holding great. So that plastic JB weld worked a charm so far. Feels much better to have it looking normal ish again haha.

Thanks for the tips guys, Im sure I'll have to do this again some day.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Follow up at approx. 1700mi.
Brake lever came in, feels really good to be back to completely normal!
Plastic JB weld is still just as strong. Really great performing epoxy for ABS, it's withstood all the miles, 150mph winds (wonder how that happened! ;) ) and multiple hand cleanings to remove bugs and keep her clean.

Im absolutely considering using that JB weld on my girl's bike for some old cracks as well.
In the process of making a DIY radiator guard as well.

Happy as can be!
-Mike
 

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Follow up at approx. 1700mi.
Brake lever came in, feels really good to be back to completely normal!
Plastic JB weld is still just as strong. Really great performing epoxy for ABS, it's withstood all the miles, 150mph winds (wonder how that happened! ;) ) and multiple hand cleanings to remove bugs and keep her clean.

Im absolutely considering using that JB weld on my girl's bike for some old cracks as well.
In the process of making a DIY radiator guard as well.

Happy as can be!
-Mike
Yup, JB Weld is great stuff!

Also, a tip for cleaning... Simple Green Motorsports is the best cleaner I have found for the bike. Just spray it all over, let it sit for a couple minutes, then rinse it off (rub it around a little bit with a wet microfiber cloth if necessary). It gets rid of all the dried on bugs and everything so easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Oh whoa, they make simple green for moto stuff?? I've been just using the regular stuff, and it still works great. I'll have to look into that, I'm sure it would be at least as great as the normal stuff.
Thanks for the advice!

-Mike
 

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Oh whoa, they make simple green for moto stuff?? I've been just using the regular stuff, and it still works great. I'll have to look into that, I'm sure it would be at least as great as the normal stuff.
Thanks for the advice!

-Mike
They sure do, and it works great! If you can't find the motorsport version, they also make an aircraft version, and both are safe on all the aluminum and plastic parts.
 
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