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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

So my dumbass dropped my 4 day old '19 6R. Wasn't even riding, was cleaning the chain on my crappy rear stand that was good enough for the 300, but wasn't as stable with the bigger bike, and I was spinning the rear wheel while aggressively wiping the chain, and I just pushed the bike over. Im stupid as hell, lol. Buying a new, good stand tomorrow.

Anyhow, here's a picture of the main scratches. It got a few more by the pipe guard and on the bar end, and bent the brake lever, but no engine part scratches. Some of the less visible and smaller scratches on other panels I have sharpie'd in, and I am happy with those, nearly invisible. But the main scratches I am not sure what to do. It's got a crack also as you can see, and I am going to pull off the piece soon and evaluate my best action to close that up, and I am thinking about maybe epoxying a plastic piece inside the fairing behind the crack. Not as concerned about the crack.

I don't want to sand it and repaint the whole piece.
I was thinking good paint would kind of fill in the scratches indents, and make it look better. Or, I could plastidip those fairings on both sides, or something similar.

It's a kind of matte black, but a bit more reflective than true matte. So I am thinking recoloring the whole piece is probably the cleanest solution in the end.

What do you guys think? It doesn't need to be 100% perfect, just so that in pictures or from any distance at all it isn't outstanding. I am willing to put some quality time and effort into it, just not a lot of cash! Im all cleaned out from buying the damn thing haha.

Thanks in advance.
-Mike
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Discussion Starter #3
Haha, might need a little more damage to part er out lol.

I've heard mixed opinions on sliders for the 636, but honestly I want protection for drops like this. But also something that hopefully wouldn't damage other parts when I go down on the track. From a drop, it looks like the front fairings and handlebar get the worst of it, of course a good slide is different, but anyone got any good slider/protection suggestions?

Thanks.
-Mike
 

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Time to learn to paint.... ColorRite will sell you a kit, primer, color and clear, with extra materials for sanding and clean up between stages. Look for my thread, where I worked through similar issues on my '09 back in August/September.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, thanks for the tips man. I'll definitely dig up your thread.

This piece isn't the glossy gray color, its a matte ish black piece. Think the process might be any different? It has no clear coat. Honestly I am not too picky with the finish on it after the painting, I just want it uniform.
Thanks again man, you've helped me a bunch since picking up this bike!
-Mike
 

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Damn! The cheapo rear stand strikes again! There’s a whole thread on that with people poo-pooing buying a quality stand .... they need to see this thread and feel your pain. Sorry this happened to your new baby...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
RJ2112, I saw your paint job, and WOW. Yours came out amazing! Way above my expectations on my own repair jobs, if I could get a similar result to what you achieved, i would be plenty happy.

I'll look at the woodcraft sliders, and I may also look into some engine part guards and stuff as well for slide protection, but honestly I think I am much more likely to just drop the damn thing working on it or having my foot slip on some gravel at a stop on a hill or something stupid. I may be 5'11", but my legs are not that long, and my feet are probably the least coordinated part of my body lol.

Edit: On a side note, looked up the approx. price of the piece I would need, and Kawi charges a premium $175 for this one piece of plastic. Sheesh! Yeah, I'll stick to sanding, painting, and elbow grease, thanks.

So any more ideas for low speed and/or stationary drop protection is probably what I will want most for mostly street use, but heavier duty protection is a good idea as well.
More suggestions welcome. Thanks!
-Mike
 

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Mike, I had the luxury of time.... And I had already learned how to take the fairings apart through all the different tasks I'd done on this bike. Lots of incremental processes, followed up by being patient....

Since I don't need a '19 shop manual, I don't know if it is available here for download. When I found this place after buying my bike used, it was because I was looking for the one for my model. The rest, you could say is history. If you don't already have one for your bike, spend the money for that. Kawasaki pays their engineering staff to develop that text. Worth every penny.

If that piece is that cheap, I'd probably replace it rather than repair the one on there now. That would give you the opportunity to learn how to remove the fairings..... A necessary skill, when you want to do maintenance.
 

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Edit: On a side note, looked up the approx. price of the piece I would need, and Kawi charges a premium $175 for this one piece of plastic. Sheesh! Yeah, I'll stick to sanding, painting, and elbow grease, thanks.
$175 you’re getting off cheap IMO. By the time you source the correct paint/clear coat (that may or may not match when your through with it) remove and prep the plastic, and then start to learn the process you’ll be sorry you didn’t just pay for the part.




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Touching up any low- gloss finish is virtually impossible to get a uniform finish.... matte, denim, flat, satin..... all have a "rough" feel. Unless you get it repaired and sprayed at a shop, chances are the area will most likely come out shade darker/lighter. I get the impression you'd be satisfied with 85% coverage appearance wise..... most of us could achieve that on a gloss finish- matte.... not so much.
 

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I would just replace the fairing piece with a new one. But, if I were going to "touch it up", I would spray the whole piece with matte black Plasti Dip. Then again, I change the color on mine every few months/year with Plasti Dip. :D

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, nice color changes man! Looks great.

Yeah guys, I am not looking to color match the pieces, this piece is just a matte black, if it was a shade or two off or even a slightly different finish, I could care less. I may just plastidip it in the meantime and see what I can do, and if I hate it or it comes out bad, just peel er off.

Strider, how does the dip hold up to use? Does gear rubbing on it cause it to peel? How about weather/heat/road debris? Im putting on tank grips here in a day or two when they arrive, and dipping around that might be more work lol.

RJ, yeah definitely invested in learning the ins and outs of how these fairings bolt up, I have already figured out the back half, which looks much simpler than the front and under sections, so I will definitely take a crack at that probably tomorrow since the weather is probably going to suck. I think you're right about the shop manual, I would definitely like to have that on hand.

Maybe $180 is cheap for a fairing, but not the cheapest for my wallet! I've got the cheap bastard curse for the next year while my finances recover from the purchase and lots of recent riding haha. But, in the end, I will probably buy a new one down the line, but for now I just want a good enough cover up. Plus, if I replace it later, I can do some stuff to this one without worrying.

I'll try to pull the piece off and assess the damage here soon.
Thanks for the input guys.
-Mike

EDIT: bought a used, legit stand on offerup, and now she stands sturdy as hell. Could have avoided this crap for the $30 the used stand cost, dammit lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmm, shop manual is not available right now... Bummer. Id say the 2018 manual is probably good for the engine and some other parts, since those are the same over the years, but I want it mostly for the new bodywork and stuff...

Would rather not have to learn to take it off by just diving in head first, but if that's the only option then so be it. I have looked online for videos of people pulling off the fairings, but there really isnt a lot of results. Anyone have any tips? Think the ninja 400 fairing removal is very similar? At least on a certain level? I see they use some new rubber pin type fairing mount.

-Mike
 

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Wow, nice color changes man! Looks great.
Thanks!

Strider, how does the dip hold up to use? Does gear rubbing on it cause it to peel? How about weather/heat/road debris? Im putting on tank grips here in a day or two when they arrive, and dipping around that might be more work lol.
It holds up really well! You just have to make sure you apply it properly (at least 6 or so coats). I've had it on for more than a year at a time. The only place it really ever started to get messed up a little is on the back of the tank where I lean on it. So I just sprayed on a few more coats of matte black Plasti Dip in the shape of a tank protector, hehe. You can kinda see it on the back of the tank here:

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I paint around the tank grips as well:

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow, awesome work man. Glad to hear it holds up really well. I see there's a variety of plastidip products nowadays, do you just use the standard product? Any primer or finish coating of any kind? It looks like you just painted on over the stock decals, or did you remove them first? If I plan on the plastidip being a permanent solution for these specific pieces, should I just sand and wet-sand the whole surface lightly, or does the product stick and peel off normally with the original finish?
Thanks for your insight man.

I think you've sold me on the plastidip with your results! The pair of pieces I would be doing shouldn't contact anything from normal use, so that is good as well.

-Mike
 

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I wouldn't sand anything at all (just make sure the surface is clean). I just spray over the top of the decals. No primer is needed. For matte black I just use the standard matte black that you can buy just about anywhere (you don't need a finish coat for this color). For other colors and finish coats (like Glossifier or Pearlizer) I get them here: Aerosol Colors - Find The Perfect Spray Dip! | DipYourCar

They also have lots of tutorials on their YouTube channel for applying Plasti Dip: DipYourCar
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cool, good calls.

I do have scratches though, what do you think I should do to make the surface smoother? Should I sand just that part? I am concerned it would show up in the end on even a good plasti dip set of coats as 3D features...Should I maybe sand the protrusions and fill in the gaps with something? I need to first fix the piece before I can coat it, my scratches are relatively deep, but not huge gouges.

I just started going at the bike today with my allen wrenches and got the whole side + bottom skirt off in probably 20 minutes. Lots of hardware, coming from a bike missing just about every screw haha. But I used my parts organizer tray and kept them all together, and removing it isn't really bad at all.

The cali emissions box was a pain, it is actually fastened to the fairing, so halfway in I had to get screwdrivers in at weird angles, but I got it. Definitely no damages to any of the mounting ears, fasteners, ect. So I do have to get the crack together first, then I will go about coating the piece.

Any more tips appreciated.
-Mike
 

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Sucks the cheap rear stand got you. Like others have said, there was an epic thread on that topic awhile back...but the people like me who deem a Pit Bull stand as mandatory have experienced what you have. Sucks. Sorry for the preaching.

Anyways, I agree with the gist of what others said. It's impossible to match a satin finish, on the molecular level, the clear is "crinkled" where as a normal gloss clear coat is smooth, one refracts light in all directions, making it look satin, the other is smooth and looks shiny. No way to redo that without redoing all of it, otherwise you will have a shiny spot in the clear.

I'd give the plasti dip approach a shot, will be the easiest thing for you to do. If that fails or you don't like it, your next best bet is to just replace the whole piece.

But don't buy anything else until you buy a new rear stand...
 
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