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What oil company do you choose ?

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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

As this is the 1st time I am attempting an oil change on my 06 636 I was wondering how much oil to put in?

bikes got 12k'ish miles on it and gear shifts are getting a bit sticky. I have the oil, filter and new sump washer... so I recon its time for it, and I want to do more service type stuff anyways.... save some ££'s.

I cant find my owners manual either for some reason, think the rats ate it!! Anyways any help would be appreciated.

I have worked on cars in the past so not a total nube, just dont want to cock it up.... for obvious reasons.

ttfn,
Wozza.
 

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I believe it holds 4 qts even, with the filter change. But put in about 3 1/2 and run it, let it drain back into the pan (atleast 10 minutes) then check the oil level (bike on both tires and level)
 

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you can buy a gallon of oil here in the US which is 3.78 quarts. it's a perfect amount for our bike. pour the whole gallon in if you can find it over there. i use rotella 5w40, but you can use what you like.
 

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You can't fill it with a set quantity. Do what Rivers said.

You use the sight glass to set the level. If it's the same as every bike I've ever owned, run it for a while, stop it. With the bike level, check the site glass after 1 minute and then adjust.

After a while the level will be a little over the full mark, but the manual (my manual) doesn't say to check it later, it says about a minute.

The quantity cast onto the case doesn't say whether it included a filter change or not, it doesn't say if it's a refill after a drain or a fill after a rebuild etc.

Fill the filter before fitting it, the engine will spend less time running dry that way. It's take two goes at it. Fill it, wait a while for it to soak through the element then fill it again.
 

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that is the best way, but i'm lazy and it goes to the middle of the site glass w/ 1 gal. and new filter.

you don't lose oil when you turn the oil filled filter over to put it on the bike?
 

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what i do is buy a gallon of the blue jug rotella synthetic 5w40 & oil filter and it puts it right at the full mark after i change it out
 

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I buy Royal Purple 10W40 motorcycle oil 2 cases at a time...because I know i'll use it all and because I have a guy that can cut me a pretty decent deal on the "bulk" order, and because my 636 gets a bit crunchy in the tranny (mmmm, trannys) between oil changes and this symptom responds well to the synthetic yummmies...but ANYWAY My owners manual says 3.6 if I recall correctly... I usually go about 3 and a half, run it, let it trickle back down, then see where it's at and top off if needed. I try to run it just a bit below the top line: More oil means more cooling capacity, plus you'll burn off a bit between oil changes so running it towards the "fuller" limit makes sure you won't run the bike low.

PS: pui, just 4tr...

Even MORE PS: Make sure you put a bit of oil into the filter to prevent pushing a bubble through the system, and drain your old oil while hot. I usually go for about a 20 minute ride around town, just to get the temp up. Helps get all the skank out of your crank case (mmm, skank). I know filling the filter is a bit tough since it mounts sideways...but the anti-drain back valve helps with that. You can't get much in there w/out it pouring out, but every little bit helps.
 
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Can I suggest using a filter key rather than a wrench, there's less chance of squashing the filter and causing damage, plus if you're super pedantic you can use a torque wrench cos the key will slot into it.
 

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you can buy a gallon of oil here in the US which is 3.78 quarts. it's a perfect amount for our bike. pour the whole gallon in if you can find it over there. i use rotella 5w40, but you can use what you like.
Not to bust your balls, but a gallon is equal to 4 qts, regardless of where you are...maybe you meant a gallon is equal to 3.78 liters....
 

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Not to bust your balls, but a gallon is equal to 4 qts, regardless of where you are...maybe you meant a gallon is equal to 3.78 liters....
that's exactly what i meant :coocoo

768 ryda know what i'm talkin' about
 

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I just always run the bike get her warm shut her down drain the oil and remove the filter. Fill the filter half way then i add the correct amount which is usually next to the window ? get the level to around half way on the window ( with the sump plug in ha ha ) run her for 2 mins and add as required . Always worked for me
 

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My bike is also due an oil change, and I want to attempt it myself. Seems pretty straightforward.

One thing though... I don't have a torque wrench. I was looking in the Haynes manual and it says when doing an oil change to tighten up the bolt with a torque wrench to the correct figure. Do you guys all use a torque wrench or is it okay to tighten it normally until it feels properly tightened? I don't want to do anything stupid, so thought I would ask here. I'm guessing I am going to have to buy myself a torque wrench?
 

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Don't over torque it and pull out the aluminum threads in the oil pan !!!!!! But no, I don't use a torque wrench on the drain plug or the filter....It's a "feel" thing..
 

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Don't over torque it and pull out the aluminum threads in the oil pan !!!!!! But no, I don't use a torque wrench on the drain plug or the filter....It's a "feel" thing..
At home, no torque wrench. At work, EVERYTHING is torqued to spec. I can't afford to buy new parts for everything that strips, so I cover my ass and torque it right, especially with all the aluminum shit they're using these days.

Just remember, it's not a super duper high torque fastener, it's just plugging a hole, and theres a crush washer in there that does the sealing. The torque on that bolt is just enough to stretch the threads out to provide enough friction to hold it in place. If you're REALLY worried about it, just safety wire it, then it can't turn :thumbup
 

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I know some of you guys want to share what you are doing with your bikes, but come on, it has the oil capacity on the case.

Just tell us how proud you are that you are changing your on oil. this way we can say, "way to go", as opposed to thinking "oh Lord help this kid".

Anyways, glad to hear you're taking on the task yourself. Ride safe.
 

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"way to go" it's always good to see people doing some of the maintainance themselves. Save your self some money, and learn something about your bike at the same time.
 

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Its good that your wrenching on your own bike mate. Remember, all the info to work on your bike is available on the Net.
When you take your shit apart, lay out the pieces in the order that they came off and reverse the order to put it back together.
If you are doubting yourself, take pictures as you disassemble.
Carry on.
 

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Don't over torque it and pull out the aluminum threads in the oil pan !!!!!! But no, I don't use a torque wrench on the drain plug or the filter....It's a "feel" thing..
At home, no torque wrench. At work, EVERYTHING is torqued to spec. I can't afford to buy new parts for everything that strips, so I cover my ass and torque it right, especially with all the aluminum shit they're using these days.

Just remember, it's not a super duper high torque fastener, it's just plugging a hole, and theres a crush washer in there that does the sealing. The torque on that bolt is just enough to stretch the threads out to provide enough friction to hold it in place. If you're REALLY worried about it, just safety wire it, then it can't turn :thumbup
Ok cheers for the advice chaps. Reason I asked was because torque wrenches seem expensive, although just looking around and can see some for about £20 (not too bad, might be worth the investment for when working on bike in the future).
 
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