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So my stuff came in the mail yesterday. I installed it last night and luckily enough there is a sunny day today and it's a lovely 40 degrees out. So I took it out for a ride around the block (5 miles through the country where I could open it up several times). I realize I probably need to get a good full session on the track but I'm just trying to figure out how everything works and how to make the best adjustments. The first image below is the default map that came in the unit for my bike and the 2nd map is after I rode it around the block, retrieved the data and applied all. I didn't do any smoothing yet and am just curious if that 2nd map was after a good run what would be the suggested changes/smoothing in this case?



 

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I noticed when I took the bike out for that short ride yesterday that the quick shifter worked the first part of the ride and when I got close to home I went to use it for one last shift and it didn't shift. I didn't think much of it at the time because I had a total of 5 miles with a quick shifter at that point and figured it might have been a fluke. I went out today for about 150 miles and the quick shifter only worked about 10% of the time. I'm about to tear it apart and start checking things out with my meter but any suggestions on what to look for? It seems like when it worked I run run through all the gears with it and it worked perfectly.

When it didn't work it didn't work at all and I tried shifting down and up and sometimes it would start working and sometimes it wouldn't. It wasn't working when I pulled into the house. I rode around the block with the cover off so I could see the controller while I was riding and it was definitely powered up but the shifter wasn't working. So I "assume" it's most likely at the connection where it plugs into the harness, the shifter switch itself or a wire somewhere in between (unlikely). I assume my issue is not a common one. I still want to get the full setup for my other bike but I want to be comfortable it's going to work for me 100% of the time before I do.
 

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There are a few cells that have rich numbers like a +20 next to negative numbers, those could be anomalies, but I'd take it for another mapping run before passing judgment. As for the QS, it's odd for it to become intermittent like that, esp when it's brand new. I've never seen the connection go bad, where the switch plugs into the harness, it's usually something else. I'd check and make sure the gear ans RPM signals are reading steady inn the software, then call the Bazzaz Tech line and they can walk you through some more diagnostic steps.
 
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I guess my concern was whether running an oxygenated or leaded fuel might screw up the readings of the o2 sensor and cause incorrect recommendations by the Z-AFM. But it sounds like that shouldn't happen. I was thinking if fuel type did effect the o2 sensor readings that maybe there was a way to tell the software which fuel type you are running so it could compensate accordingly. Obviously I'm new at this and all of what I said is more than likely ridiculous to someone who knows what they are doing. :)
Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor, sooner or later, depends on the the fuel. Oxygenated is perfectly fine and the AFR reads the same way as normal gas, you'll just end up with a richer map.
 

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There are a few cells that have rich numbers like a +20 next to negative numbers, those could be anomalies, but I'd take it for another mapping run before passing judgment. As for the QS, it's odd for it to become intermittent like that, esp when it's brand new. I've never seen the connection go bad, where the switch plugs into the harness, it's usually something else. I'd check and make sure the gear ans RPM signals are reading steady inn the software, then call the Bazzaz Tech line and they can walk you through some more diagnostic steps.
Thanks! Talked to Del at Bazzaz yesterday and today and it's looking like after running through a few tests I might have just got a bad quick shift switch. I'm sending it back RMA tomorrow and he'll check it out.
 

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I've just purchased a 2011 ZX6R with a Bazzaz ZFi-TC. When looking at the maps for TC, all the sensitivity cells are filled with "5", which I'm ok with. However, all the cut level cells are blank.

Am I correct in thinking that this means all the cut level cells are set at "0" and traction control can't ever be activated?

I was about to fill all the cut level cells with "5" as well, but thought I'd check here first.
 

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Thanks! I'll go ahead and fill them with "5"s then. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait a couple months before I can take it out and actually try it.
 

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Oh yeah, Del tore it apart and I believe he put in a new switch. He sent it back and I ran it on the stand and it appeared to work. I have about 6" of snow on the street right now so I'm not going to test it until that goes away. :)
 

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Oh yeah, Del tore it apart and I believe he put in a new switch. He sent it back and I ran it on the stand and it appeared to work. I have about 6" of snow on the street right now so I'm not going to test it until that goes away. :)

Good to hear. How was the install of everything?

I'm in a similar boat although I think we just got a total of 10 or so inches and could potentially get another foot over the weekend.

At least it will give me a chance to take my sled out.
 

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So I am shopping between the Bazzaz and the pcV. I am really leaning more in the direction of the Bazzaz ZFi and ZAFM the only problem I have is the closest Bazzaz Certified Tunning Lab is in HO which is over 400 miles from my home. I will be new to the fuel management side of things. Where a certified PC shop is only 50 miles from my house. I read that the Bazzaz is pug and play, the install is not what worries me it's the mapping side that I am sceptical about new territory to me. I just don't want something to go wrong with the map, and no place to take it. The software looks user friendly so my question is it kinda dummy proof? thanks!
 

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So I am shopping between the Bazzaz and the pcV. I am really leaning more in the direction of the Bazzaz ZFi and ZAFM the only problem I have is the closest Bazzaz Certified Tunning Lab is in HO which is over 400 miles from my home. I will be new to the fuel management side of things. Where a certified PC shop is only 50 miles from my house. I read that the Bazzaz is pug and play, the install is not what worries me it's the mapping side that I am sceptical about new territory to me. I just don't want something to go wrong with the map, and no place to take it. The software looks user friendly so my question is it kinda dummy proof? thanks!
you can have a tune done with a bazzaz on a dynojet/powercommander dyno...the tuning is the same process only different software... any tune shop can do it...i tune both on the same dyno all the time...

as for the software, yea for the most part the bazzaz is fairly dummy proof... if you dont know what a particular function does, you can hover your mouse of it and it pops up a little "hint" box saying what it is... but its pretty self explanatory..

you will be much happier with the bazzaz than the PC... iv raced with both... dont get me wrong PC is good stuff too but i like the ease and finer tunability of the bazzaz...
 

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Anyone ever had an issue with their USB port? I had to apply pressure in order to get it to read. Wonder if bazzaz can fix it?
 

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You're not leaving a cord plugged in when you ride are you? That would cause the connection to wear out from vibration. If not you might try some contact cleaner before shipping back to Bazzaz.
 

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I left one plugged in this year but that was it. I put a new USB cable in today just to make sure it wasn't the cable and same thing. I have to pull the cable towards me to get it to read. I'm wondering if the solder joint is making it's way loose.
 

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I went through 2 or 3 GPS units with the same type of USB plug because the vibration ruined the connection. I took them apart and soldered a cord directly to the board which worked for a while but I had to keep re-soldering it because the vibration eventually broke the connection. So I knew not to leave a cord plugged into the Bazzaz because it would surely do the same thing. I found spraying contact cleaner in it would help for a while.
 

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I talked to my buddy (who is an EE) said he should be able to pull it apart and put a new port in it. I'm gonna call bazzaz and see what they want to fix it.
 
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