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Discussion Starter #1
Been leaking for the past I'd say 6 months all because I can't remove these bolts! Sick of it! Took the other side off just fine these are the problem. Completely stripped. Went to buy a set of bolt extractor bits and that didn't work either. I've tried hammering the next biggest size in there too and it doesn't fit no matter how much I hammer (nearly broke my finger from continually missing lol) I need to get this fork off ASAP as it's deteriorating my front braking, ruined many pairs of shoes, pants, and peeled of my plastids many times...HELP! :banged
 

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This happened to me as well. I gave up on it being frustrated. My brother took a hammer a flat chisel and managed to get the bolt free and out. It took him some time but he did it that way.

I replaced the bolts with regular hex head ti bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
This happened to me as well. I gave up on it being frustrated. My brother took a hammer a flat chisel and managed to get the bolt free and out. It took him some time but he did it that way.

I replaced the bolts with regular hex head ti bolts.
Any chance you have the size of the bolts you replaced them with? I'll be needing to do the same. Not using these stupid type of bolts EVER again. LOL
 

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Some people recommended I try heating them up but with all the fluid that's gotten everywhere I'm scared of this thing catching fire haha
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Torx bits work well for extracting stripped allen heads.
Tried those too haha. Even tried hammering those in there as well as the allen bits.
 

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It's going to take some force to take it out. Some heat should loosen it but it can catch on fire.

I didn't know but this bolts expand when heated and cooled so the torque increases. It might be really tight right now.


Torque - Lindemann Engineering
wow that is some good info. Torque wrench is a good investment. Save you the headache later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's going to take some force to take it out. Some heat should loosen it but it can catch on fire.

I didn't know but this bolts expand when heated and cooled so the torque increases. It might be really tight right now.


Torque - Lindemann Engineering
Yeah I think the shop that last redid my forks might have overtightened these things lol. Got a few responses on other pages I'll see what works.

•Hammering one side to pinch an allen bit in there
•grinding a slit into them and using a flat head
•Wipe down as best as possible and carefully heat them up
•wrapping a rubber band around and allen bit and sticking it in there
I've already sprayed them with a lubricant (ontop of all the fluid that's been dripping on them for the last few months lol)

Can't wait to finally get these fixed.
 

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I'd say use a Dremmel with a cutting wheel and either cut a slot down the middle for a standard screw driver, or cut flats on the sides for a wrench to grab.
 

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I'd say use a Dremmel with a cutting wheel and either cut a slot down the middle for a standard screw driver, or cut flats on the sides for a wrench to grab.
This is a good idea! When bolts and stuff are tough I always rely on my cutting wheel. Do what Duc says, cut flats on the side for a wrench to grab. You have plenty of bolt.

If that doesn't work try cutting the bolts completely off and take the calipers off so your left with a metal rod. Then weld a nut on the rod and use a wrench to get it off. Or buy a bolt extractor from harbor freight and get the remainder of the bolt out that way.
 

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I had the exact same problem after i had suspension work done and the guy over tightened the swiss cheese oem bolt. I tried loads of different things. In the end i drilled the head off which took ages going from 2mm bits up to 13mm. It did work however with no damage to the caliper. I also fitted M10 Titanium Hex Head Flange Bolt replacements, much better than oem and 1/2 the weight.
 

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Yeah those bolts suck. I did the same as monkeh and put Ti bolts in. The good news is I didn't let them get that bad. I did it after 2 of the 4 started to strip out just changing tires a couple of times. I saw the writing on the wall so to speak.
 

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i had same problem on my b1... i took it to a local shop and he knocked it out with a chisel.... i replaced all 4 with some bigger head allen heads that i got in normal hardware store.... the originals are known to be crap and better to change them before they round
 

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Chisel and hammer. If you are going to use heat, you heat the fork base where it threads in, not the bolt.

Once you get it out, you replace them with these ;-)



 

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If it's that bad I would prob cut/grind/drill the heads off and then pull off the caliper over The rest of the thread. Afterwards to remove the left over thread I would use two nuts and screw them onto the thread and tighten the nuts hard together against one another somewhere in the middle of the thread. Then use a big spanner or ideally an impact socket and impact gun to rattle the threads out. (If using an impact gun put the socket onto the nuts but put some pressure to one direction and it'll help the nuts bite and rotate the thread.


I have done this on knackered bolts a few times. Never had to do it on my calipers before though.
 
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