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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2009 zx6r. <<< :n6zlove

This past December (2013) I replaced my stator. The charging system was tested. And the output when testing the stator at 4k rpms was 5volts (should be 50+). Replaced RR, stator, and battery (bad cell). Also I know there was a recall for the RR on my bike and it had been replaced over a year ago.

Recently I was out for a ride and the bike died on me in heavy highway traffic. A few seconds before the engine shut off I saw a flash (later found out it was a blown headlight). The bike would not start back up. No starter sound, Fuel priming sound or exhaust/emissions valve sounds.
Later after taking apart the bike, the battery was fried (I assume per overcharging?) and the high beam blown again (I replaced about two weeks prior). The turn signals were also both blown out on the right side.

Checked fuses and the Ecu fuse was blown. Double checked to see if it was a fluke with another battery when turning on the bike and it blew again. Unplugged Ecu and relay box and checked by turning the bike on and fuse didn’t blow. Plugged in the Ecu and turned on bike fuse was fine. Plugged in Ecu and relay box and the Ecu fuse blew.
Took out the screws off the relay box and the circuit board looked a little discolored (assuming it burned up?)

To be noted perhaps is that my bike recently has only been on short trips to and from school since parts were replaced. Usually only in the Rpm range and I don’t think out of third gear. My ride we were on the highway. Is it possible that this aftermarket stator and mosfet RR overcharged and fried everything? The stator was RICK's, the RR was from of unknown origin and the Battery was a Balistic Evo 2? I like learning everything about motorcycles and electrical. I heard that all these brands were good. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To check the relay box, I was lucky to have a friend with a 2013 zx6r that let me ohm out his relay box and compare numbers against mine (in the ZX6R FSM there more info on ‘testing’ starts in 16-96). The numbers were pretty much identical. I then plugged my relay box (exact same part number called the Orlando Yamaha Kawasaki to check compatibility) into his bike to see if it would still fire up and it did, so I ruled out bad relay box. So concluding that my worst fear that it might be the ECU, I bit the bullet and bought a used ECU online for around $100 and when I plugged it into the bike, she fired right up.

I tested the RICK’s stator before uninstalling it to compare voltage reading with that later of the OEM stator I was going to replace it with. The voltage readings were on average 50% higher than the OEM stators which would have made the RR work harder causing it to overwork.

Comparison of regulatorrectifier.com’s Rick stator to the OEM are as follows (on the same bike):
Idle speed between leads (1300RPM)
Ricks: 31 +/-1V
OEM: 21 +/-1V
Between leads (4000RPM)
Ricks: 85 +/-1V
OEM: 61 +/-1V

When I took out the RICK’s stator it looked okay (no burnt out coils) and continuity was good but their stators that they say they make for the ZX6R’s are putting out way more voltage than necessary which will overwork the RR and cause premature failure. I mean think of the high revving nature of our bikes and the kinds of voltage the RR would have to be dealing with at much higher RPM’s. I just wanted to make everyone aware of the problem so nobody has to go through the mess I did.

Regulatorrectifier.com,from which I ordered the Rick’s stator and RR from, wanted to blame the 8 cell Ballistic Evo 2 battery saying their ‘tech’ said “lithium batteries don’t regulate amperage and that is why nobody uses them and how I installed the wrong battery in my motorcycle.” I know several people with the same battery who have never had issues with the Ballistic battery some of them who are everyday riders and some that only joy ride here and there.
Shown below is an email directly from the customer service and support of Ballistic.com, here is their response to RegulatorRectifier.com’s “Tech’s” response of how I installed the wrong battery in my motorcycle

"We have sold more than 70,000 Li-Ion batteries for use in powersports vehicles. I can assure you that they work just fine in normal, functioning charging systems. I agree with your assessment that the something in the charging system failed (voltage regulator) and that over charged the battery.
As for OEM Use:

Ducati 1199 Superleggra uses a Li-Ion battery: Ducati 1199 Superleggera- First Look Review- Photos

The new EBR 1190RX uses a Li-Ion battery: 2014 EBR 1190RX First Ride Review- Photos- Specs- Erik Buell Racing

Porsche offers a Li-Ion battery for their 911 GT3:Porsche AG: World Debut: Starter Battery in Lithium-Ion Technology - Press - Company & Brand - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

The only reason for not using Li-Ion batteries is cost….this is why they are only used on select, exotic, high performance vehicles where cost is not an issue.

Please give me a call if there is anything else we can help with.

Sincerely,
Chip Spalding
Ballistic Performance Components
920-545-4956 (Office)
www.ballisticparts.com"

When it comes to the charging system don’t cheap out and by aftermarket. A battery will never overcharge on its own. A new ECU is around $850, you can buy the race ECU for around $700 I think (cheaper because the computer connector cable is expensive and most people who would buy the race ECU I would surmise would also buy the cable).
On another note, I’m still going through negotiations with Regulatorrectifier.com for refunds. I would advise against anyone buying from them. Sure it might have been ignorance of mine that lead me to buy from them but with my account information they were not able to tell me what RR they had originally sent me and told me to take a picture of it and send it so they could figure it out. Seriously?!

So after the whole overcharging issue I installed a digital voltage reader with direct leads from the battery, so charging won’t ever be a mystery for me anymore. I can post pictures of that if anyone is interested. I hope this was helpful!
 

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I just bought a 09 zx6r and reading about all these electrical issues is making me wamt to sell it quick! I need to get my voltage regulator replaced too...
 

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So after the whole overcharging issue I installed a digital voltage reader with direct leads from the battery, so charging won’t ever be a mystery for me anymore. I can post pictures of that if anyone is interested. I hope this was helpful!
Yes, please post some pics! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yes, please post some pics! Thanks!
Here is the link: http://zx6r.com/mechanical-technical/56607-digital-voltage-gauge-no-more-mystery.html#post902405

I just bought a 09 zx6r and reading about all these electrical issues is making me wamt to sell it quick! I need to get my voltage regulator replaced too...
If you read in any forum for any street bike you will see that charging system failures is not an uncommon thing. It is hard to make a RR that can deal with the wide voltage range output of that of a street bike to be putting out the same voltage at 1.2k Rpm's and 16k. Also the manufacturers/design engineers having the RR placed right over the engine, behind the radiator and between the headers doesn't help much. I mounted mine under the tail to help dissipate the heat better and put it in the air stream.
 
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