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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at this kit to replace my stator --- particularly due to the FET based R/R, as well as the much reduced cost relative to OEM. Gasket, Stator, and R/R, for less than $100, including shipping. (Amazon)

Kit Stator + Mosfet Voltage Regulator Rectifier Fits Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 2009-2012 | OEM Repl.# 21003-0083 21066-0028 21066-0731 99999-0377

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ815H4/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AXF7T66DHG2EB

Partzilla is quoting $234 for the OEM stator, alone.


I can't say that I have been impressed with the life of the OEM part I had replaced a few years ago. If the FET based R/R reduces the load enough to lengthen the life of the stator, this is something I could deal with easily. If it shits the bed in 6 months, it's not worth it. four years, no more aggravating than OEM. 5+ years, money well spent.
 

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I'm looking at this kit to replace my stator --- particularly due to the FET based R/R, as well as the much reduced cost relative to OEM. Gasket, Stator, and R/R, for less than $100, including shipping. (Amazon)

Kit Stator + Mosfet Voltage Regulator Rectifier Fits Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 2009-2012 | OEM Repl.# 21003-0083 21066-0028 21066-0731 99999-0377

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ815H4/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AXF7T66DHG2EB

Partzilla is quoting $234 for the OEM stator, alone.


I can't say that I have been impressed with the life of the OEM part I had replaced a few years ago. If the FET based R/R reduces the load enough to lengthen the life of the stator, this is something I could deal with easily. If it shits the bed in 6 months, it's not worth it. four years, no more aggravating than OEM. 5+ years, money well spent.
I have replaced the stator on mine twice now. I can't remember the the latest one I put on was OEM or aftermarket. I think I still have the box out in the garage. I'll see if I can find it and update shortly.
 

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When I replaced my stator I was also tossing the idea back and forth with buying an aftermarket one. A lot of reviews I read online pointed me towards OEM as they are the MOST reliable.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's what I have heard as well...... I had a dealership install the last one, and presume they installed OEM because I told them to....

Haven't dealt with them since.

When I open the cover this week I'll have a better idea of what needs to be done.
 

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Have always thought of OEM as better, the only one I replaced I used OEM and it worked well but sold the bike soon afterwards so don't know how well it lasted. I've also kw of folks that took the old one to a alternator motor repair shop and had them rewound. Most motorcycles use a shunt type voltage regulator. My favorite part of stator replacement is removing the bolts secured with blue locktight.
 

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Only two uneducated stupid reviewers.......

The real test is time and use....... neither says a thing sans they installed them and they worked at that time. Had they came back and said they had them in the bikes for 2 years and 15,000 and still working great or 5 years and 100k......... then their reviews would mean something

That said......... @ $89 I would just buy them, install them and even if they only make it 1 day beyond that 90 day warranty you learned a cheap lesson.....

Now for me, since I deal with customers and have to warranty my work and eat shit if it fails....... I always go oem with great success

As always buy at buyers own peril......... but despite all their rhetoric and bullshit sales talk about "highest grade laminated materials", highest grade copper" etc...... they still are inexpensive aftermarket parts that may or may not work as described for a timeframe acceptable to the end user......

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lloyd,

If the FET type R/R works, that's worth the entire price of the purchase on it's own. I agree, long term durability is almost certainly better with the OEM stator. As has been said, the differential in price is so large you have to think the parts are crap.

Good enough to get me through to next summer? That's the crap shoot.

Once I have a good torx bit to remove the screws holding the burnt stator from the cover, I'll go this route, this time. Amazon no cost shipping should have the parts in my hand before the end of next week. I know that Partzilla wouldn't have even processed the order in that time frame.
 

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Okay, the only box I found was an OEM. I think I used OEM both times I replaced the stator, and it looks like the last time was early to mid 2015.
 

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Okay, the only box I found was an OEM. I think I used OEM both times I replaced the stator, and it looks like the last time was early to mid 2015.
That's crazy to me that it has gone bad that many times.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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That's crazy to me that it has gone bad that many times.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Well, I have put 70,000ish miles on the bike. :BigGrin
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's the unit that was on the bike... I thought they typically failed near the connector, on the 'upper' part of the unit. This one seems to have burnt up between 4 and 6 O'clock, as well as damage at 10-11.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So doing some research on line as to the difference between a shunt regulator, and a current limiting design (FET), it would appear that the OEM design used by Kawasaki and most other mfgs, essentially keeps the alternator putting out max power at all times. Anything greater than what is needed to maintain 14 VDC and change, is 'shunted' (dumped) into a load resistor and shed as heat. This is typically done with a relay, that puts the resistor in circuit or not, depending on what voltage is felt at the battery.

The FET design doesn't throw excess into a resistor -- it doesn't allow excess power to be generated, at all. As soon as the voltage goes to the limit value, it reduces the flow of current from the alternator... no extra power, no need to shunt it. R/R stays cooler, demand on alternator is reduced.......

Seems like a win-win.
 

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Doesn’t the stator generate power based upon rpm? How would a MOSFET voltage reg/rect alter the actual produced output of a device (stator) that is entirely separate and only controlled by the engine rpm? Are you just describing the MOSFET reg/rect cutting off the voltage generated by the stator, and not actually causing the stator the reduce it’s output? I’m trying to understand here...

Here’s a quote I found from Rick’s Motorsports Electrics:

“MOSFETs (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor) are semiconductor switches which act to control the flow of electrical current. The MOSFET design relies on a switching mechanism that provides a more precise control than other models, particularly in low-power applications like motorcycles, ATVs, and dirtbikes, due to its quicker switching capabilities. This in turn produces less heat as less energy is lost through the switching process. The result is a part that runs cooler and more efficiently. This improves the overall performance of the circuit as a whole, while also being a more reliable unit due to the cooler running condition causing less stress to the internal electronics.”
 

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The stator / flywheel will always put out the max it can at the speed it spins..............

So all that is going to the regulator rectifier to have to deal with, always! (on this type of stator set up, goldwings & some other bikes actually have alternators like cars and thus do not always put out max voltage it can at that given rpm)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The schematics I've looked at make me think the load is what determines the alternator output. With a shunt design, the load shifts between the battery and the load resistor. With the fet design, the fet is used to change the load the alternator 'sees'. Adds resistance, which decreases current flow.

Instead of the relay dumping extra power into a load without changing the load the alternator faces, the alternator's load is changed\reduced. No extra power is produced, so there's less heat generated at every point in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They're at least one size bigger than T25.... Will have to buy bits for my drill that are correctly sized to get this apart. Stopped, before I did much damage to the bolt head I tried the T25 bit on.
 

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T27 or T30..... I have found some to be one and others to be the other- It has been awhile since I did a zx6r, so not sure which but I think T30 on the Zx6
 
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