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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my 2009 zx6r wouldn't charge, or start, and I knew it was the stator, again. So since I'm going to be doing a replacement, and some maintenance, I figured I would post of some pics to help anyone who wants to do it... Here goes:

First thing is to take off the fairings, now I'm sure there is a way to get to the stator without taking it all off, but I'm going to clean this sucker good, and it makes it easier to get to things like the coolant system and anything else I see I need to refresh or clean.


After you have the fairings off, you want to place an oil pan underneath your bike to catch the oil from the oil change and the stator cover being removed.


To drain the oil, you must loosen the bolt at the bottom of the oil pan, unscrew this with your fingers making sure to hold on to the bolt so you don't lose it as the oil gushes out.


Loosen the oil filter and place a paper-towel under to catch the oil that will leak.



Take it off and get the new filter from the box. Take some of the oil in the pan and lubricate the rubber seal on the new filter. I make sure I get it nice a tight so it doesn't vibrate loose.



Next you will want to remove the fill cap and replace with new oil. Everyone has their own preference, but for me I like synthetic Royal Purple 10W-40.

Ok, Next I am going to remove the stator. Now you want to loosen all the bolts to the stator cover. Once they are all out, grab a pair of needle nose pliers and prepare to jerk the cover from two opposing sides, for example, start on the right side and place the pliers inside a bolt hole, jerk hard to loosen the gasket and magnetic connection. Next do the same to the left side until the cover comes off.


The image above shows why I was having issues, the wire burnt up, so I cut the remaining wire loose. Also the next image is what it looks like with the cover off, except I cut my wire.


In order for you to get the stator out and the new one in, you just fetch the connecting wire that is ran to your regulator/rectifier, which you disconnected if you took the fairings off. They are located on the inside of the right upper fairing behind where the ninja logo would be.
The first step is to take off the gas tank. You must unscrew the olinns steering damper and set aside. Next there are two screws that hold the front of the tank to the body, take those out. Now you will be able to lift from the front, but only so far. So now you must remove the screw the bottom of the tank rotates on. When this screw is out, you will be able to lift the tank up some, but know you will need to disconnect some lines and plugs. Make sure you have a towel, or a couple to use under the tank as you tilt it to catch any leaking gas, and to separate the tank from the body, we don't want to scratch up our nice looking paint. Trace the electrical wire under the seat and disconnect. Then disconnect the black "S" shaped gas line, use a flat edge screwdriver to pop the red locking cap backwards and just pull. I usually don't disconnect the overflow lines, so bring them out with the tank.


When you place the tank down, make sure to place on a box or something in order that the weight is not on the little metal nozzle that you disconnected the "S" gas line from, this can break easily and then your buying a fuel pump.


Ok, so now your ready to get the air filter box up and out of the way.


There is one screw at the top-front and easily seen, remove this screw.



Next you will need to pop the little black plastic caps from the frame so you can get to the screws that are holding the attachment from the air box to the throttle bodies. Unscrew them just enough the loosen their grip on the connection. Once you have done this, pull up and backward and the airbox should come up. You will also need to unattach a hose at the bottom of the airbox. I don't take the airbox totally off, so just sit up upright until you are done.


Now is a good time to check out the status of your filter, from where the air comes in, this will give you a good idea of if you need to replace it without taking the top of the air box off, and as you can see, mine looks like it's time to replace. Would be a great time to clean out the airbox as well, so I will do that later.


Make sure to place a couple clothes, papertowels, or newspaper in the throttle body intakes to make sure you don't get debris or loose screws down in them.


Now it's time to get the wire out. So go over to the right side and locate the grey connector. This should be your stator connection, the other is black, so just ignore that one.


Trace the wire under the frame and locate under a group of other wires. Pull it out from under the frame and loosen anything keeping it down. Remove from any attachment so your ready to remove from the left side of the frame.


Now that you have removed the cable from the both sides of the frame, you can remove from behind any other hoses and free it from captivity.


The hardest part is getting the transformer circle off of the stator cover. I have had to use an impact drill. Make sure you put tons of pressure on the screws so they don't strip. To be Cont...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Waiting on parts, will take more detailed pics...
 

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Just one note, if you do break off that silver nozzle, you won't need a new tank, just a new fuel pump :D
 

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Great write up with pics, but I have to ask why or how did the wires go bad? Don't want to do this job and if I could avoid I would love to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great write up with pics, but I have to ask why or how did the wires go bad? Don't want to do this job and if I could avoid I would love to.
I'm not totally sure, but I believe when I replaced the stator the first time, the wire got to close or in contact with the transformer. That's my best guess! I am going to try and use some heat resistant silicon to insulate the wire that's in close proximity to the coils.
 

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Looks like I will be going down this rabbit hole as well....

A few of questions:

1) Did you buy the same replacement stator the second time, as the first?

2) Did you see anything different, that would make you think the OEM stator would be more reliable?

3) What sort of shipping times have you been quoted for the replacement -- how long did the first one take to get to you?

4) Did you consider a used stator, rather than new?

5) Do you know when the reg/rec recall was done on your bike? How many miles/hours since new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks like I will be going down this rabbit hole as well....

A few of questions:

1) Did you buy the same replacement stator the second time, as the first?

I bought a ricks the first time and bought Kawi OEM this time.

2) Did you see anything different, that would make you think the OEM stator would be more reliable?

The OEM looks to have a protective cover over the coil of wires, looks to be better quality. I also got a great deal from a guy who bought two by accident off eBay. $100 shipped

3) What sort of shipping times have you been quoted for the replacement -- how long did the first one take to get to you?

I don't remember, but they both came very fast.

4) Did you consider a used stator, rather than new?

I didn't consider a used one.

5) Do you know when the reg/rec recall was done on your bike? How many miles/hours since new?
I did the recall about 6-7K I believe.
 

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Good stuff man. I cracked the cover on my stator and now I gotta replace it. But I was wondering....will a 03-04 stator cover fit a 05-06?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good stuff man. I cracked the cover on my stator and now I gotta replace it. But I was wondering....will a 03-04 stator cover fit a 05-06?
I have no idea about that one, but my guess is no
 

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Nice write up. I had to replace.cover but was too lazy to take tank and intake.off. If u peak under tank, you can reach in with a flathead and undo the brackets holding in the rectifier wire and pull out the wiring without removing anything.
 

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Nice write up apart from the holes you blocked aren't carb holes seeing as these bikes don't have carbs, they're the throttle bodies I believe
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You should now be concerned with the gasket. Make sure it's not damaged and that it doesn't have any kinks in it. remove it from the stator case if needed.



Next you need to clean off all the old gasket glue gunk off of the gasket, stator case and attachment on the bike.



Like I said previously, try and use a impact drill to get the screws out, I tried doing this by hand the first time and just stripped a couple screw heads. I had to use vice-grips to grab real hard and turn them out, I got lucky they came out.



After I got the old stator out, I replaced with an OEM one this time. They look better than the Ricks in my opinion. They seem to be protected better, see for yourself below. Also placed the rubber seal in the groove on the cover and pushed the wire as for away from the transformers as possible.



Your stator cover will have a screw and bracket to help with this, but I broke the screw hole the first time, so it will not keep the screw and bracket, which was a major reason my second stator's connecting wire burned, it got to close.



Ok, now the new stator is in, we need to use some oil resistant gasket sealer to reseal the gasket to the stator cover, and to the bike. Make sure all surfaces are cleaned off, then apply a nice bead of sealer all around the stator cover and around the screw holes.



In the image above notice a pin sticking out of the upper right hand corner of the stator cover. There are two, and the other goes in the opposite side. Don't lose them! They will make sure your cover is on correctly.

Run your wire through the hoses and get ready to run accross the bike in reverse of where you took it out from.



Next place the gasket on the stator cover and apply another bead of sealer ontop of the gasket, just like the stator cover. A good bead on both surfaces will ensure no oil leaking out when done. When your bead of sealer is done, then place the stator cover back onto the attachment on the bike, it is magnetic so it will pull it back. Make sure the pins are lined up and the cover is flush with the bike.

Put the screws back in and tighten down some, but not all the way. Wait an hour and tighten all the way down. Let the sealer sit for 24 hours before you start the bike.

Ok, it's time to put the bike back together!
 
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