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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, so I flushed my front brakes about 500 miles ago and now every 60-80 miles I have to release some air (just a bubble or two) from the master cylinder bleeder valve. I can’t find a leak at any of the bleeder valves, does anyone know what may be going on or had a similar experience?
 

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Not an expert on this but did you vacuum bleed or do it the old fashioned way? Possible you let some air get in and it is taking it's time working out. After you get the air out are the brakes firm again or are they still squishy?
 

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besides the above............

did you overtighten the bleeder screws and deform the seat area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used DOT4 as required, I used the vacuum method and did pull air in, I just thought it would resolve quicker. I also wouldn’t be surprised if I over tightened the screw. I guess it’s just a learning experience for my first time. Thanks for the insights.
 

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If you have OEM lines, there’s a really good chance of catching a bubble in the line between the front calipers because of the ‘h’ routing to reach caliper #2. The arch in the line is nearly impossible to drive the bubble out of.

Aftermarket single direct lines to each caliper , or a layout that cannot trap a bubble below the MC make it much easier to get it right.
 

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Not trying to lecture,

Just because the devil is in the details, whenever you bleed or flush any brake system you want to start with the longest line and work to the shortest….
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks RJ, I’ll see if it gets better or try another flush the proper way. If not maybe I’ll upgrade to stainless steel lines, which I was contemplating anyway just wanted to give this a go first.
 

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Whenever I have to bleed front brakes, I always put the bike on the sidestand and have the bars on full left lock.

This minimises the chance of any air getting trapped in the master cylinder, you want the brake res at the highest point.
 

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The other consideration….. does your bike have ABS?
I have abs...how would this affect bleeding the brakes? I am actually having problems bleeding the right caliper on my 2013 zx6r. Changed the lines to SS so bleeding fresh lines has been a challenge. Back brake and left side coming from the master seem to be fine but I cant get any fluid to run to the other side
 

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I have abs...how would this affect bleeding the brakes? I am actually having problems bleeding the right caliper on my 2013 zx6r. Changed the lines to SS so bleeding fresh lines has been a challenge. Back brake and left side coming from the master seem to be fine but I cant get any fluid to run to the other side
I would expect the abs module interrupts the brake line and traps fluid. Hopefully RiversZZR will step in with a better explanation.
 

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I've had the same issue. I chased for hours until I removed the bleeder screw and reinstalled. Thinking I've damaged the seat
 

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I had this issue too after a bleed. Did it 2 times actually since I thought a bubble was trapped somewhere. Strangely mine firmed up again the second time and got even better (to stock level) after a few short rides. It can be tedious. Makes me wonder if the abs system has anything to do with the bubbles. Some good info here though guys thanks.
 

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Did you damage the seat and if so would that mean you need a new caliper?
No idea I've since gotten a new bike.
So i don't have the problem anymore
 

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ABS bikes suck for bleeding. I installed new SS lines, Brembo MC and calipers and it took me 3 full rounds of bleeding to get it right. You may want to tie your brake lever to your bar and keep the cap off the reservoir over night, that helped me during my ordeal. It's also very helpful to have bleeder bags and an extra set of hands to run fluid through the entire system and push any micro bubbles out.

If you have a Mity Vac, you can go the other way and push fluid through the system. I did the push method on the rear and it only took a minute to get the brake lever rock hard.
 

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ABS bikes suck for bleeding. I installed new SS lines, Brembo MC and calipers and it took me 3 full rounds of bleeding to get it right. You may want to tie your brake lever to your bar and keep the cap off the reservoir over night, that helped me during my ordeal. It's also very helpful to have bleeder bags and an extra set of hands to run fluid through the entire system and push any micro bubbles out.

If you have a Mity Vac, you can go the other way and push fluid through the system. I did the push method on the rear and it only took a minute to get the brake lever rock hard.
Thanks for the reply!

My rear brake is fine its the front that is giving me problems.

I will keep at it a few more times.

Another quick question how long would you say is too long once the brake fluid is open? I poked to holes in the foil seal and last bled them on thursday I wont get a chance to do it again until monday. Would that be too long?
 
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