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What sprockets are on her bike?

  • Stock

    Votes: 308 51.9%
  • -1/+1

    Votes: 21 3.5%
  • -1/+2

    Votes: 177 29.8%
  • -1/+3

    Votes: 21 3.5%
  • -1/+4

    Votes: 3 0.5%
  • -1/+5

    Votes: 4 0.7%
  • -1/+6

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • -1/+7 and up

    Votes: 2 0.3%
  • -2/+3

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • -2/+4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • -2/+5 and up

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • Other

    Votes: 54 9.1%

  • Total voters
    593
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Hi. I'm a bit of a noob too but I've got my head around how it works. Think of it as a mountain bike. If u go to less teeth on the front sprocket or more teeth on the rear that will make it easier to pedal or give it better acceleration. Obviously the opposite if you add teeth on the front or lose them on the rear. If you do go to a smaller one on the front and bigger on the rear it will be easier to pedal (accelerate) but the your legs (engine) have to go round faster which means it will have higher rpm to go the same speed it did before giving you worse economy. If you added teeth on the front and took them off the rear it would give you worse acceleration but your legs (engine) would not have to go round as many times (rpm) to do the same speed you did before giving you better mileage. If that's wrong I apologize but I'm pretty sure that's exactly how it works

Just seen the post above which covers all this but I've wrote it now so I'll leave it :)
Very good analogy!

As it relates to fuel economy, it may or may not hold true for improving or diminishing it with going up/down on sprockets. It also relates to where the engine's sweet spot is (power band). For example, if you decrease 6 teeth in the rear hoping for better fuel economy, you may get worse if the bike actually starts to "lug" in your cruising RPM and you hae to be in the gas more to keep your speed. So the whole fuel mileage thing, although is affected, depends on more things than just a sprocket change... and in the end I would contend is more dependent on two fundamental things - how hamfisted you get (fun factor) and what speed your cruise at (aerodynamics). Those two will affect your fuel economy the most. :bigthumb:
 

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there are plenty of different set ups as we know for the bikes
lets just say mine .....which is a 2001 J model
i find -1 front .......stock gearing at the rear ......
its all really down to you as the rider what you prefer ......ive played about with mine alot and thats the best setup which works for the way i ride
everyone is different:bigthumb:
 

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I recently installed vortex -1+2 cat5 red. I felt a little torque gain but definitely lost top end, no dyno included just feel on the ride. another con is the noise my front sprocket made was a ticking sound due to no gromet or rubber seal on the sprocket. I kept +2 and went back to stock kawi sprocket on the front. I still feel xtra torque but i gained on mid and top, again just from feel of the ride, no actual dyno.
 

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I recently installed vortex -1+2 cat5 red. I felt a little torque gain but definitely lost top end, no dyno included just feel on the ride. another con is the noise my front sprocket made was a ticking sound due to no gromet or rubber seal on the sprocket. I kept +2 and went back to stock kawi sprocket on the front. I still feel xtra torque but i gained on mid and top, again just from feel of the ride, no actual dyno.
You will not gain power/torque (at least not enough to call it a gain)

all this does is improve acceleration, however it cuts down how fast your bike is top end.
 

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-1/+2 Vortex Steel Sprockets
EK Gold 520 O-ring

Has a really good launch and acceleration but takes away from top end like 6 mph. But I don't always go 170+. But leaving people at red lights are fun :)
 

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ok so im def hearing -1 in the front and stock rear is a decent set up for take off and acceleration, but my question is im intersted in learning wheelies, but i dont want to be riding one every time i take off from a light. so my question is will just doing -1 in the front and leaving the rear stock make enough difference in the low end that i will be able to wheelie easier, but not affect the normal ride that much. ??
 

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ok so im def hearing -1 in the front and stock rear is a decent set up for take off and acceleration, but my question is im intersted in learning wheelies, but i dont want to be riding one every time i take off from a light. so my question is will just doing -1 in the front and leaving the rear stock make enough difference in the low end that i will be able to wheelie easier, but not affect the normal ride that much. ??
From what I hear you would want the +2 in the back if you want to learn/do a lot of wheelies.

You wont do a wheelie leaving the light as long as your not accelerating that hard. the sprocket change will can help you do wheelies easier but it wont make you do a wheelie without you knowing it unless you bad on the throttle.
 

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x4, 5, 6 (?).... -1 up front, stock rear (which i may need to replace now that the bike is tore down... it almost 13 years old)

This is the only setup ive had (beside stock of course) so i dont know alot, BUT I feel like the bike should have come like this...
 

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anyone notice a whine after putting on a 15t front sprocket. mine seems to whine even tho the chain is within spec-looser side, and the sprockets seem to be perfectly aligned
 

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-1/+2 Vortex Steel Sprockets
EK Gold 520 O-ring

Has a really good launch and acceleration but takes away from top end like 6 mph. But I don't always go 170+. But leaving people at red lights are fun :)
im running same set up for the same reason. its not often that i need to exceed 140+mph. id rather have quick acceleration from the line.
 

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VIVID, mine does also. seems more noticable around 60mph and up.

love the performance frmo the -1/+2

only con for me, is its a lil choppy in the lower rmp's / light throttle inputs. but its nothing unbareable.
 

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Lets say my stock OEM Info: Pitch: 525 Links: 114 Front: 16 Teeth Rear: 45 Teeth

What set-up would you recommend just for street/freeway riding only?? No track riding.

Which company is bang for you bucks but is good quality??
 

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Lets say my stock OEM Info: Pitch: 525 Links: 114 Front: 16 Teeth Rear: 45 Teeth

What set-up would you recommend just for street/freeway riding only?? No track riding.

Which company is bang for you bucks but is good quality??
-1 Front (15T) was perfect for me until riding a bit more on the track. Can't really go wrong with any of the big names because all the fronts are steel.

I'll have my -1/+2 Vortex (steel) setup fairly soon so I'll know what all the fuss is about that.
 

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anyone notice a whine after putting on a 15t front sprocket. mine seems to whine even tho the chain is within spec-looser side, and the sprockets seem to be perfectly aligned
You'll notice a little whine simply because the aftermarket countershaft sprocket has so much less actual material to it. The stock ones are pretty beefy and heavier so they are much quieter.

I get a whine on mine too.
 
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