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What sprockets are on her bike?

  • Stock

    Votes: 308 51.9%
  • -1/+1

    Votes: 21 3.5%
  • -1/+2

    Votes: 177 29.8%
  • -1/+3

    Votes: 21 3.5%
  • -1/+4

    Votes: 3 0.5%
  • -1/+5

    Votes: 4 0.7%
  • -1/+6

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • -1/+7 and up

    Votes: 2 0.3%
  • -2/+3

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • -2/+4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • -2/+5 and up

    Votes: 1 0.2%
  • Other

    Votes: 54 9.1%

  • Total voters
    593
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If going -1 on the front is roughly the same as going +2 on the rear, is there any reason why I wouldn't just go +2 on the rear instead of swapping out the front one? I've been told that swapping the rear is pretty easy, but the front one can be a bit of a pain
 

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If going -1 on the front is roughly the same as going +2 on the rear, is there any reason why I wouldn't just go +2 on the rear instead of swapping out the front one? I've been told that swapping the rear is pretty easy, but the front one can be a bit of a pain
Going down in the front there is less rotating mass (your rear sprocket doesn't get bigger). Im 1 down in the front right now but just ordered chain and sprockets and went to a -1 front and +1 rear
 

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If going -1 on the front is roughly the same as going +2 on the rear, is there any reason why I wouldn't just go +2 on the rear instead of swapping out the front one? I've been told that swapping the rear is pretty easy, but the front one can be a bit of a pain
-1 on the front is closer to a +2.6 or 2.7 on the rear. Swapping the rear is easy, the front isn't too bad either.

Going down in the front there is less rotating mass (your rear sprocket doesn't get bigger). Im 1 down in the front right now but just ordered chain and sprockets and went to a -1 front and +1 rear
Actually, from a rotational mass perspective, most folks go with an aluminum rear sprocket which is a lot of rotational mass savings back there. More-so than dropping one tooth in the front... plus with the front being so small (diameter), the resulting affects are not as great. So even though you are getting a bigger rear for all of this, it is still much lighter (assuming it's aluminum) than the stock steel rear sprocket.

So going -1 in the front, I can use the stock chain, right?
Yes
 

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I ordered a steel rear because my aluminum one didnt last for shit!! I supposed less wheelies might help but there too much fun
 

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Only -1 up front for me.
 

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I ordered a steel rear because my aluminum one didnt last for shit!! I supposed less wheelies might help but there too much fun
Could very well be... They actually make a combo steel/aluminum I've seen that looks interesting. It's a two piece rear that has steel teeth and the part closer to the hub is aluminum.

I run an aluminum one on my S1000RR and haven't really had issues, but I tend to change out chains/sprockets more often anyway. Race bikes hold the aluminum rears as well, any acceleration assistance out there is always welcome.
 

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Could very well be... They actually make a combo steel/aluminum I've seen that looks interesting. It's a two piece rear that has steel teeth and the part closer to the hub is aluminum.

I run an aluminum one on my S1000RR and haven't really had issues, but I tend to change out chains/sprockets more often anyway. Race bikes hold the aluminum rears as well, any acceleration assistance out there is always welcome.
Interesting... who makes this combination sprocket? Yeah just thought I would go back to a steel rear just bought my first house so money cant fly out of my pocket like I used to let it :devious
 

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Interesting... who makes this combination sprocket? Yeah just thought I would go back to a steel rear just bought my first house so money cant fly out of my pocket like I used to let it :devious
Supersprox
 

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i have stock front +6 rear and found that its the best , had -1 +2 and -1 +3 and -1+6 but this is best setup so far
 

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If going -1 on the front is roughly the same as going +2 on the rear, is there any reason why I wouldn't just go +2 on the rear instead of swapping out the front one? I've been told that swapping the rear is pretty easy, but the front one can be a bit of a pain
its not just being a bit of a pain its more chain consuming too because the chain has to turn on a smaller radious because of the smaller front pulley and get more wear and tear
 

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I run a -1 renthal front sprocket and a stock rear wich as i agree with others its just right to liven it up a little, but i also use a 1/4 turn quick action throttle

-1 front is the equivalent to +3 on the rear
 

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-1 on the front is closer to a +2.6 or 2.7 on the rear. Swapping the rear is easy, the front isn't too bad either.


Actually, from a rotational mass perspective, most folks go with an aluminum rear sprocket which is a lot of rotational mass savings back there. More-so than dropping one tooth in the front... plus with the front being so small (diameter), the resulting affects are not as great. So even though you are getting a bigger rear for all of this, it is still much lighter (assuming it's aluminum) than the stock steel rear sprocket.

Yes
Okay...I'm a sproket noob but let me see if I got this right.

Stock sprockets are a heavy steel or some other material correct?

Getting aftermarket aluminum sprockets would help reduce rotational mass which would help with acceleration.

How is the bike affected if you change just one sprocket?

I imagine changing the front would help with quicker acceleration but what does changing the rear do?

Does this affect gas economy? or not really as it doesn't affect the gearing and its still all based on how you are with the throttle?

Since the stock sprockets are of a heavier thicker metal material, i'd imagine they last a lot longer. Since aftermarket stock ones are aluminum I'd imagine their lifespan is half?



I mainly stayed away cause I figured it would affect gas econ, especially since I use mine for commuting in addition to fun.
 

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Okay...I'm a sproket noob but let me see if I got this right.

Stock sprockets are a heavy steel or some other material correct?
Stock = Steel

Getting aftermarket aluminum sprockets would help reduce rotational mass which would help with acceleration.
Aftermarket front sprockets are still steel, rears can be steel or aluminum. If you go w/an aluminum rear, it will have less rotational mass, but not sure you'll notice a big difference. You will notice the biggest difference due to the dropping teeth in the front and/or adding teeth to the rear.

How is the bike affected if you change just one sprocket?
If you drop teeth in the front OR add teeth to the rear you will improve acceleration. However your total top end ability of the bike will also drop.

I imagine changing the front would help with quicker acceleration but what does changing the rear do?
If you add teeth to the rear it is like dropping teeth from the rear... both improve acceleration.

Does this affect gas economy? or not really as it doesn't affect the gearing and its still all based on how you are with the throttle?
Your cruising RPMs will be higher and in essence could affect fuel mileage. Doubt it will do much more than 1-2mpg and maybe even no measurable/consistent impact. You'll have more impact by how much the right hand likes "to play".

Since the stock sprockets are of a heavier thicker metal material, i'd imagine they last a lot longer. Since aftermarket stock ones are aluminum I'd imagine their lifespan is half? Steel sprockets will last longer than aluminum. Not sure exactly how much longer.

I mainly stayed away cause I figured it would affect gas econ, especially since I use mine for commuting in addition to fun.
A cheap test to see if you like it and if your fuel mileage is impacted much, if any, would be to drop one tooth in the front. Cost will only be about $25-$30 and if you don't like it you can easily swap it back and sell it to someone else. Rears are probably $60-$70.
 

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Okay...I'm a sproket noob but let me see if I got this right.

Stock sprockets are a heavy steel or some other material correct?

Getting aftermarket aluminum sprockets would help reduce rotational mass which would help with acceleration.

How is the bike affected if you change just one sprocket?

I imagine changing the front would help with quicker acceleration but what does changing the rear do?

Does this affect gas economy? or not really as it doesn't affect the gearing and its still all based on how you are with the throttle?

Since the stock sprockets are of a heavier thicker metal material, i'd imagine they last a lot longer. Since aftermarket stock ones are aluminum I'd imagine their lifespan is half?



I mainly stayed away cause I figured it would affect gas econ, especially since I use mine for commuting in addition to fun.
Hi. I'm a bit of a noob too but I've got my head around how it works. Think of it as a mountain bike. If u go to less teeth on the front sprocket or more teeth on the rear that will make it easier to pedal or give it better acceleration. Obviously the opposite if you add teeth on the front or lose them on the rear. If you do go to a smaller one on the front and bigger on the rear it will be easier to pedal (accelerate) but the your legs (engine) have to go round faster which means it will have higher rpm to go the same speed it did before giving you worse economy. If you added teeth on the front and took them off the rear it would give you worse acceleration but your legs (engine) would not have to go round as many times (rpm) to do the same speed you did before giving you better mileage. If that's wrong I apologize but I'm pretty sure that's exactly how it works

Just seen the post above which covers all this but I've wrote it now so I'll leave it :)
 
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