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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i have a 2016 ZX-6 looking to go -1 +2. I've never changed my sprocket/chain before so i'm not sure what to be looking for as far as quality brands go. Id like an aluminum sprocket with steel teeth but haven't found alot of options. As far as the chain goes do i keep OEM length? Just not exactly sure what to be looking for...
 

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-1 +2 is the furthest you can go from OEM sprocket sizes, and have the OEM length chain fit. The bigger back sprocket will require the wheel to move closer to the transmission output shaft and that's near the end of the adjustment range available in the swingarm. Because your '16 calculates your speed from the wheels, rather than the front sprocket, you can go further afield and simply buy a longer chain to match if you wanted to. At some point, all you do is repeat the OEM gearing/final drive ratio -- go far enough, second gear acts like first did and you 'lose' 6th gear (becomes equal to what 5th would do).

Shorter final drive ratios increase RPM for any road speed you are doing. Higher RPM generally means higher HP, and more torque so it's easier to lift the front wheel if you want to do so.

If you're riding on the street, I wouldn't bother with aluminum sprockets, TBH. There are many videos describing the process of replacing the front sprocket -- the most important thing to know, is that there is a lock washer which has a bent 'up' tab, that prevents the nut from coming off the transmission output shaft. You have to flatten that out so the nut will turn.

Others will jump in with brand preferences..
 

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-1 +2 is the furthest you can go from OEM sprocket sizes, and have the OEM length chain fit.
Plus that is a significant change in ratios that is very noticeable. I'm not sure I would ever want to change more than that for a street bike that needs to be reasonable for highway riding. 600's are already buzzy at speed, I'm not a fan of making it more so.


If you're riding on the street, I wouldn't bother with aluminum sprockets, TBH.
+1. The difference in unsprung/rotating mass is not noticeable but the much higher wear rate sure is.


For chains any of the major brand O- or X-ring chains are fine. Riverszzr doesn't like any of the lower cost sprocket manufacturers but I have never had a bad one so far. Of course, he installs more than the rest of us combined.

More chainsets are ruined by neglect than anything. Take care of your chainset by keeping it clean and lightly lubing it (maybe, depends on where you live. I don't lube mine at all) and you will get an easy 20,000 miles out of it regardless of the brand. Of course, that's just my experience. YMMV.


Mark
 

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Supersprox if you are looking at aluminum carrier with steel teeth

but is it really worth doubling the price of the rear sprocket???? only you can say- of course there is some cosmetic (color choices) going that route

but the supersprox steel variants, sunstar steel sprockets would be the best two choices imo

Ek chain, RK, DID- as long as you buy their higher quality lines would be the choices in that order I would recommend
 

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dont bother with aluminum sprocket..no upside all down side..

You should stick to OEM spec sprockets and chains UNTIL or IF you have a reason NOT to. I would ALSO have some one who knows what they are doing install them. I do about 80-90% of work on my bike.

I don't do wheel bearings..sprockets or chains.. Even experienced mechanics don't get it right somtimes..so you can def eff ikt up . I have had diff mechanics mess up the rivet pin on a chain 3-4 times till I figured out...dont use rivet pin type!

and as rj2112 mentioned. ..changing front sprockt size and or bend washer on front sprocket needs perf installation or it will eff a bunch of stuff up eventually.

On my drz400 eff yeah change it all up..cause bike is shit for street without and never get to comfortable highway speeds without diff sprockets..

1 tooth smaller or rear diff if you must on yer Ninja..

oh gawd im rambling now..
bye
 

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I like @burke comment about don't change gearing unless you have a reason to. I will disagree about the rivet pin master link. I did one and had no trouble with it. However I did get a caliper out to measure the flair. Too little and it could come loose, too much and it could crack. IMO not that tricky as long as you are meticulous - something I find to be helpful when working on a bike. If you are not comfortable doing it get someone who is AND knows what they are doing to do it. I've seen a few chains come off on track bikes and it can be a problem.

Better yet screw it up and then take it to @riverszzr and ask him to fix it for cheap in a very short time :)
 

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I like @burke comment about don't change gearing unless you have a reason to. I will disagree about the rivet pin master link. I did one and had no trouble with it. However I did get a caliper out to measure the flair. Too little and it could come loose, too much and it could crack. IMO not that tricky as long as you are meticulous - something I find to be helpful when working on a bike. If you are not comfortable doing it get someone who is AND knows what they are doing to do it. I've seen a few chains come off on track bikes and it can be a problem.

Better yet screw it up and then take it to @riverszzr and ask him to fix it for cheap in a very short time :)
NO NO NO

bring it to Riverszzr before you fuck it up......... once you already fuck it all up prices double and you sit through a 30 minute lecture of telling you what an idiot you are for not bringing it in right away ;)
 
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NO NO NO

bring it to Riverszzr before you fuck it up......... once you already fuck it all up prices double and you sit through a 30 minute lecture of telling you what an idiot you are for not bringing it in right away ;)
But it's more fun for the rest of us if OP fucks it up first. :LOL:


Mark
 

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But it's more fun for the rest of us if OP fucks it up first. :LOL:


Mark
There you go, wanting me to kiss and tell again............ lol
 
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