Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Wondering if anyone can help me out here, I've got a 2005 Kawasaki 636 ZX6R. Lately it's been doing this weird thing where it'll spit and sputter, backfire and come back to life after being ridden around for awhile. Sometimes, however, if I clutch in at around 6-7k RPM the bike will shut off and, obviously, coast until I bring it to a stop. It will however start up again and ride but spit and sputter again after a bit or instantaneously.

I've got it sitting at Marietta Motorsports and I was told in confidence it seemed like something electrical, although they've had it for a week now they still aren't sure what the actual problem is. One of the workers there said he has seen this problem twice before on Kawasaki's and both times it was the crank case position sensor. So they removed that on my bike, cleaned it really well, and reinstalled it. They also fixed one of the air lines that runs through for the gas tank, it was pinched off apparently and they rerouted it so it flows fully now. Another thing they fixed was, and I could be wrong here but I believe he said it was a timing chain that had a wobble to it.

I've been majorly head congested so I could be wrong on the terms I used above describing the fixed items. Anyways, if anyone knows what this issue could be please feel free to reply here to me with what you know. I'd appreciate it. I'm going to try and get over there and ride it around this weekend and see if it does it, then take it home and ride it throughout the week and see how it does. I need it by next Saturday to be ready to huge group ride that is 2 hours away just to get there. I feel anxious just riding it currently so I'm going tomorrow like I said to check it out and ride it for around 3 hours and see what happens.

It should also be noted that my bike is a straight-pipe all the way through and does not have the Cat on it anymore, this was not done by me it was done by the previous owner. However it was never doing what it's doing now before and I put probably 2-3k on the odometer. After riding it from 6900 miles new, fixing the transmission, replacing for seals and oil change, The bike now has about 9800 on it and is having this issue. I've been told to look into the exhaust as a cause?
Thanks for any info you may have,
- Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
So you have it at a service center and they are unable or unwilling to properly diagnose the problem?

So after they did these three "fixes" are they saying now it rides and runs fine or that it still does it?

electrical, bad coil stick?- crank position seems unlikely but is easily tested (why did they not test it?)
You have about 8 sensors, all easily tested--and all defined how to test in the oe service manual
fuel pump/filter plugged or something cutting fuel?- I suppose if that tank vent hose was pinched- that certainly wasn't helping any

Does it only do it when hot? when cold? when wet? when dry?
when you say "clutch it around 6-7k" are you talking just a normal shift and it dies before you can make the shift or that you are trying to slip the clutch and do a wheelie and it does this?

How long has it been since it has seen some love? How many miles on it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2y4life

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So you have it at a service center and they are unable or unwilling to properly diagnose the problem?

So after they did these three "fixes" are they saying now it rides and runs fine or that it still does it?

electrical, bad coil stick?- crank position seems unlikely but is easily tested (why did they not test it?)
You have about 8 sensors, all easily tested--and all defined how to test in the oe service manual
fuel pump/filter plugged or something cutting fuel?- I suppose if that tank vent hose was pinched- that certainly wasn't helping any

Does it only do it when hot? when cold? when wet? when dry?
when you say "clutch it around 6-7k" are you talking just a normal shift and it dies before you can make the shift or that you are trying to slip the clutch and do a wheelie and it does this?

How long has it been since it has seen some love? How many miles on it?
I won't bash on the shop. They rebuilt my transmission for me and didn't charge me out the ass and they are reputable, I do my shop research. They have a lot of bikes in there currently due to the riding season getting underway, so they have not had time to put it on the dyno and run it until they replicate the problem.

No they have not rode it since fixing those 3 things, that is what I am going there to do tomorrow morning bright and early before it starts to rain.

It only does it when it's warmed up and been rode for about 1.5-2 hours.

I've never tried to wheelie it, by "clutch in" I simply mean I pull the clutch in, engaging it, and let it coast and i'll look down and it's off, or in that stand-by mode kind of like when you put the key in and turn it to "on".

The bike gets rode every time the sun comes out and I have somewhere to go that doesn't require me to carry a lot or carry someone. It has roughly 9850 on it currently, I bought it with 6900 on January 1st of this year.

However you are correct about the bad coil possibility, that was one of the codes the bike threw out when we went through the feed history, but that was also after the bike was torn apart for the tranny rebuild and someone flipped the bike to "on" causing all the codes possible to read out. However they did say it could be a bad coil stick, thing. My terminology is not the best with motorcycle parts. I'm a car guy who got into bikes too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
Alright, well if it only happens after being ridden for 1.5+ hours, I can see the dilemma.

Do you have or will one of the techs let you take their infrared temp sensor with you tomorrow?

then when it does it (if it does) see what temp each of the head pipes are and know which cylinder is cutting out---if a cylinder is cutting out. atleast then you can narrow down the possibilities

otherwise jst spit on each of them and the ones it bounces off of are over 600* if any sizzle they are under 400* (approx. temps, it has been awhile since I tried it this way)
at any rate the temp disparity would be obvious and let you know a cylinder is down.

What is your idle speed set at?---while too low could possibly account for the dying, it surely has no effect on the spit, sputter and backfire

They did reset the codes, so now if/when it happens you will read current codes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright, well if it only happens after being ridden for 1.5+ hours, I can see the dilemma.

Do you have or will one of the techs let you take their infrared temp sensor with you tomorrow?

then when it does it (if it does) see what temp each of the head pipes are and know which cylinder is cutting out---if a cylinder is cutting out. atleast then you can narrow down the possibilities

otherwise jst spit on each of them and the ones it bounces off of are over 600* if any sizzle they are under 400* (approx. temps, it has been awhile since I tried it this way)
at any rate the temp disparity would be obvious and let you know a cylinder is down.

What is your idle speed set at?---while too low could possibly account for the dying, it surely has no effect on the spit, sputter and backfire

They did reset the codes, so now if/when it happens you will read current codes?
Actually not entirely. When it does it no lights pop-on indicating any sign of a problem or warning. So no codes are being thrown at all, which is partly why this is such an annoying issue.

I can ask them about a temp gun assuming they have one, they should I'd imagine. So if it's around 600 that means bad juju is happening in my cylinder?

And to answer about idle speed, the bike idles, and may I say it's very steady, at around 1500 RPM. It has never really had a tendency to idle at anything other than that. I know that before we put a servo-buddy on there were pretty much no problems so they suggested riding without and just dealing with my FI light being on. But I haven't been able to test that theory out.

This problem is causing me to rethink owning a bike ever again, considering my first one got totaled out in an accident. And now I'm having problems with this one that are mysterious to everyone. I can take a hint lol :sigh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
You are simply looking for the temps to be the same on all four.........nothing wrong with 600 if the others are also 600 and nothing wrong with 400 if the others are also 400

power commander? or some aftermarket fueling system?

Bad ECU? try wrapping some heat insulation between the ecu and the exhaust --there were some heat related failures of the ECU due to its placement and the placement of the exhaust
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top