It's okay, most of us know by now that your "you fucking morons!!!!" type phrases really translates to "common guys, you can do better" in normal person speak 😂
[sorted] ZX6R F series not ok between 4-7k rpm but good between 1-4k and 7k to redline
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Alright here are the pictures.
Pic 1 and 2) my smog block-off plates and what it would look like if you were to connect the original hoses together instead of buying the block-off plates
Pic 3) my float bowl to upper airbox hose configuration. Could be done in a cleaner way but meh
Pic 4) what it looks like with everything assembled.
Pic 5) my carb boots reversed, showing all the vacuum lines to the boots capped (with both the airbox and smog mod, none of these lines are used)
Pic 6) capped air tube fitting on the throttle side of the airbox
Pic 1 and 2) my smog block-off plates and what it would look like if you were to connect the original hoses together instead of buying the block-off plates
Pic 3) my float bowl to upper airbox hose configuration. Could be done in a cleaner way but meh
Pic 4) what it looks like with everything assembled.
Pic 5) my carb boots reversed, showing all the vacuum lines to the boots capped (with both the airbox and smog mod, none of these lines are used)
Pic 6) capped air tube fitting on the throttle side of the airbox
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Thank you so much so I've followed your instructions and now the bike worked perfect on the previous issues, no more hesitation where there was.
BUT 😂😂
I tried the bike had in temp and did 15 min run.
I did red line it a couple of time (whilst driving) and noticed a new and different slight hesitation and stumbling (on acceleration and on charge at exactly 9k rpm, whatever the speed or gear 1 2 3. But would go through it and then fly to red line like very good!
But no issue when decelerating and passing the 9k rpm mark.
Sparking clean on the rest of the rpm band.
BUT 😂😂
I tried the bike had in temp and did 15 min run.
I did red line it a couple of time (whilst driving) and noticed a new and different slight hesitation and stumbling (on acceleration and on charge at exactly 9k rpm, whatever the speed or gear 1 2 3. But would go through it and then fly to red line like very good!
But no issue when decelerating and passing the 9k rpm mark.
Sparking clean on the rest of the rpm band.
Attachments
^ Agreed on clean enough carb. I cleaned mine out about 4 weeks ago, and check out what mine looked like yesterday...
Carb cleaner in ALL passages (pilot, main, idle, and float needle), clean out ALL jets, and use compressed air in all passages to clear them.
Settings per the manual:
#1 and #4 main jets: 145
#2 and #3 main jets: 150
Pilot jets: 35
Idle mixture screw: 2 turns out
My settings for reference only:
#1 and #4 main jets: 155 *(will reduce to 150 soon)
#2 and #3 main jets: 160 *(will reduce to 155 soon)
Pilot jets: 35
Idle mixture screw: 2 and 1/8 turns out
My main jets are too rich, I just keep forgetting to order 150 jets.
Again, make sure ALL your vacuum/pressure lines are serviceable and fit snug.
Carb cleaner in ALL passages (pilot, main, idle, and float needle), clean out ALL jets, and use compressed air in all passages to clear them.
Settings per the manual:
#1 and #4 main jets: 145
#2 and #3 main jets: 150
Pilot jets: 35
Idle mixture screw: 2 turns out
My settings for reference only:
#1 and #4 main jets: 155 *(will reduce to 150 soon)
#2 and #3 main jets: 160 *(will reduce to 155 soon)
Pilot jets: 35
Idle mixture screw: 2 and 1/8 turns out
My main jets are too rich, I just keep forgetting to order 150 jets.
Again, make sure ALL your vacuum/pressure lines are serviceable and fit snug.
Attachments
Oh my gosh 🗿🗿 what a pain in the .....
I had bikes with two cylinders only so two carbs in the past so I could manage but now 4 -_-
Okay I just read the book and you are correct! (Not that I thought you weren't) I'm going to tear this apart and have a look .. again... 🤯🤯🤯
Question what are the main air jet, pilot air jet and strater jet? Dismantling the carbs I only came across the main jet, main jet holder, pilot jet and pilot screw that I could remove.
I had bikes with two cylinders only so two carbs in the past so I could manage but now 4 -_-
Okay I just read the book and you are correct! (Not that I thought you weren't) I'm going to tear this apart and have a look .. again... 🤯🤯🤯
Question what are the main air jet, pilot air jet and strater jet? Dismantling the carbs I only came across the main jet, main jet holder, pilot jet and pilot screw that I could remove.
Attachments
Here you go; not the exact same carb of course but you get the idea. Starter jet is the pressed brass fitting inside the float bowl next to the main jet, and the main/pilot air jets are the drilled holes in the throat of the inlet (between the throttle valve and the throat of the airbox).
No need to remove the brass starter jet, and no adjustments can be made to the physical main/pilot air jet (that I recall) outside of the idle-mixture screw adjustment.
No need to remove the brass starter jet, and no adjustments can be made to the physical main/pilot air jet (that I recall) outside of the idle-mixture screw adjustment.
Attachments
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