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Discussion Starter #1
As someone who hasn’t bought a new motorcycle before this week, I promised I wouldn’t ask how to break in a bike.
I had my method broken up to do first 75 miles at a max of 4K rpms, and then 75-600 miles at no more than 8k rpms; a mix of Kawasaki and my own technique.

I am wondering now though, what do y’all define as lugging the engine? My friend said that if I’m in 6th gear at 35mph at 3200rpms and I give it gas to hit 50 at 4500 rpms, that “weak pull” is lugging. (Throttle opened halfway). I thought of lugging as when you feel the engine JUST ABOUT to stall and it jerks.
I could use some reassurance that going from 2000-4500 rpms with 1/4 to 1/2 open throttle hasn’t destroyed my bike.

I’m at 55 miles now and thinking I’m going to start going up to 6k.

All advice and feedback is welcome.
Thanks!
 

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Yep, you are doing it wrong and great disservice to your engine!

an inline 4 600cc (636cc) is pretty unhappy and you are "lugging" at anything sub 5k if you try to accelerate in anything but 1st gear or downhill....... the happy spot is the middle 1/3 of the rpm band between idle and max redline.......so what is that 5000-10,000 rpms

I have no idea where you came up with your planned "break in" but it is a sucky plan for sure..

Have you destroyed it, no...........but you sure haven't done it any favors

You want enough load to seat the rings, but you want light enough loads to not harm other parts........ you have not accomplished seating the rings, nor have you accomplished the "not harming" other parts

will you notice, likely not, will your engine notice- absolutely but it doesn't mean your bike is going to blow upp anytime soon or not perform like you expect.........But stop doing what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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couple questions on that. If running it for the first 50 miles from 2000-4000 rpms is wrong then why would kawi’s manual say don’t go over 4000rpm for the first 250 miles? While also varying the rpms and changing gears at such low speeds?
1/3 of the band would be around 5300 rpms to about 10.6k, you’re correct but again, even if only considering the book with a grain of salt, those numbers are way higher than recommended.
Granted I’ll just ride it normally now, and won’t lug the engine. Part of the issue is what was defined as lugging. As I said previously I always thought lugging was only when there was an actual jerking motion right before stall, something that hasn’t occurred on this bike. (Loose definitions factored into tons of ways to break in a bike properly, leave a lot of room to “improvise”).


Yep, you are doing it wrong and great disservice to your engine!

an inline 4 600cc (636cc) is pretty unhappy and you are "lugging" at anything sub 5k if you try to accelerate in anything but 1st gear or downhill....... the happy spot is the middle 1/3 of the rpm band between idle and max redline.......so what is that 5000-10,000 rpms

I have no idea where you came up with your planned "break in" but it is a sucky plan for sure..

Have you destroyed it, no...........but you sure haven't done it any favors

You want enough load to seat the rings, but you want light enough loads to not harm other parts........ you have not accomplished seating the rings, nor have you accomplished the "not harming" other parts

will you notice, likely not, will your engine notice- absolutely but it doesn't mean your bike is going to blow upp anytime soon or not perform like you expect.........But stop doing what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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couple questions on that. If running it for the first 50 miles from 2000-4000 rpms is wrong then why would kawi’s manual say don’t go over 4000rpm for the first 250 miles? While also varying the rpms and changing gears at such low speeds?
1/3 of the band would be around 5300 rpms to about 10.6k, you’re correct but again, even if only considering the book with a grain of salt, those numbers are way higher than recommended.
Granted I’ll just ride it normally now, and won’t lug the engine. Part of the issue is what was defined as lugging. As I said previously I always thought lugging was only when there was an actual jerking motion right before stall, something that hasn’t occurred on this bike. (Loose definitions factored into tons of ways to break in a bike properly, leave a lot of room to “improvise”).
OEM's are only concerned with getting the bike through the warranty period, they care not (very little anyways) what happens after that......

and they suggest that stupid shit, becasue that puts them that many more miles of the warranty period used up in a manner in which they think causes the least damage........... I don't know anyone ever who has actually made it through that "break in" period doing the sub 6000 rpms or whatever the fuck they say

hell every new bike I have purchased (always in a crate and always taken home without some putz fucktard at the dealership starting it) and every new engine I build.... I have always been within a couple thousand of redline in the first few miles doing "break in" the correct way, and then dumping the oil/filter by about 25 mile mark and looking at the glitter show in the old oil....... and my bikes run forever and always are the fastest of their kind
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That’s a good point. Thank you. I’ll start going a little harder on the bike and hoping it’s still fine in the short and long term.
 

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i'm interested to hear the difference from going from a 06 to a new 20... probably gonna keep my 07 forever until my kids choose to get rid of it for me when im old lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hahah not a bad plan! Happy to update you as things progress but the immediate differences I noticed were that the drop in front sprocket teeth did make it more snappy (but that could also be because it’s newer and less smoothed out)

the lights are whiter due to LEDs, but to me at least they don’t seem to illuminate as many road hazards (like potholes and manhole covers). I feel like just because both are on they don’t provide double the Light as my single headlight. I could just be crazy though lol

the biggest difference so far was the posture. It feels way more aggressive. My knees are much higher and it’s easier to be sitting forward in the saddle. On my 06, I was pretty much always middle to back of the seat. Now I find myself constantly shifting back.

Haven’t tested performance above 8k just yet.

These are just my first impressions. Bottom line, 06 or 20, the things a dream. As I ride more I’ll have more info but if you have specific questions just let me know.

i'm interested to hear the difference from going from a 06 to a new 20... probably gonna keep my 07 forever until my kids choose to get rid of it for me when im old lol
 

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Yep, you are doing it wrong and great disservice to your engine!

an inline 4 600cc (636cc) is pretty unhappy and you are "lugging" at anything sub 5k if you try to accelerate in anything but 1st gear or downhill....... the happy spot is the middle 1/3 of the rpm band between idle and max redline.......so what is that 5000-10,000 rpms

I have no idea where you came up with your planned "break in" but it is a sucky plan for sure..

Have you destroyed it, no...........but you sure haven't done it any favors

You want enough load to seat the rings, but you want light enough loads to not harm other parts........ you have not accomplished seating the rings, nor have you accomplished the "not harming" other parts

will you notice, likely not, will your engine notice- absolutely but it doesn't mean your bike is going to blow upp anytime soon or not perform like you expect.........But stop doing what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very good advice. Hate to say I followed the factory break in for the most part and it was painful. But also I was learning and my first bike. Hate to think how the break In was just idling around in 1st / 2nd gear for weeks. Probably not good for her. But she runs like a top now and pulls like she should? I’d say my break in was far too gentle on the engine. Everything else o.k.😅

Would I see any issues by now with a break in like this? ( 3k on the odometer )
 

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I was worried about this too as my first ride was at a track. But I kept it at 6 to 7.5K..no lugging it as your on a friggin track and they are coming up behind you at 100 plus. Might have hit a little over 8K. 26 miles and time to dump the oil. next session will wring it out to 10 to 12. These motors do not like low RPMs..nor does the bike..feels heavy going slow.
 

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Very good advice. Hate to say I followed the factory break in for the most part and it was painful. But also I was learning and my first bike. Hate to think how the break In was just idling around in 1st / 2nd gear for weeks. Probably not good for her. But she runs like a top now and pulls like she should? I’d say my break in was far too gentle on the engine. Everything else o.k.😅

Would I see any issues by now with a break in like this? ( 3k on the odometer )

The biggest thing is without enough cylinder pressure you don't get the ring seal to be perfect........ low rpm and low load is exactly the opposite of what is needed for best ring seal

But will you notice, likely not........

but an excellent ring seal can mean several more horsepower but as a percentage maybe 2% maybe more (varies wildly form bike to bike)
What else does an excellent ring seal do............ ZERO oil consumption

......now nearly every motorcycle on the road has oil consumption whether you think so or not, some just drink excessive amounts so people notice more readily
but if you have a lift set dead level and change your oil and filter and run the bike til the fans come on, then let it sit for several days and take a pic of your oil window

then 1000, 2500 or 5000 miles later put the bike back on that very same lift set up exactly the same and run it til the fans come on then shut it down and let it sit the same amount of time and take a pic again and compare, you will see it is lower by some amount, it may only be a couple of ounces or it may be a whole pint or it may be a whole quart

you may be surprised by how many trackday/race bikes with only about 1000-1500 miles on them between oil changes come in and the oil is at the bottom of the window or below the window all together
 
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I’m glad to hear I’m not alone on this and that it still pulls good for you, I’m not too worried any more. This weekend I took the bike out and rode around in some twisties keeping it from 5-9k rpms. Got it up to 10k on a sprint and no issues, but there was PLENNTTTTYYYY of power.
As MFI said too, these engines don’t like low rpms. Today’s ride was sooooo much more enjoyable at 8.5k rpms

thank you everyone for sharing experiences and providing advice. At least now I won’t make my bike any worse, and I know that it’ll at the very least be “fine.”
 

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I’m glad to hear I’m not alone on this and that it still pulls good for you, I’m not too worried any more. This weekend I took the bike out and rode around in some twisties keeping it from 5-9k rpms. Got it up to 10k on a sprint and no issues, but there was PLENNTTTTYYYY of power.
As MFI said too, these engines don’t like low rpms. Today’s ride was sooooo much more enjoyable at 8.5k rpms

thank you everyone for sharing experiences and providing advice. At least now I won’t make my bike any worse, and I know that it’ll at the very least be “fine.”
If you’re not pinning it on redline you’ll be fine. Don’t overthink it! Maintain it and ride it!
 

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Wait till you feel the power from 12000rpms up! A lot of fun 🙂 mine wheelies on full throttle shift 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at 15000rpms or so when my shift light flashes.
 

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If you’re not pinning it on redline you’ll be fine. Don’t overthink it! Maintain it and ride it!
Wait till you feel the power from 12000rpms up! A lot of fun 🙂 mine wheelies on full throttle shift 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at 15000rpms or so when my shift light flashes.
Assman- understood, will do!

Davidlnrd- can’t wait to test it out! Hahaha
 

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By wheelie I'm estimating 4-6" but wow it's an incredible rush. Ride safe Ethan. Oh and that's on full power mode and action control setting 1 👍
 
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