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Discussion Starter #41
So the Penske needs to have the the top linkage (clevis?) added from one of my other shock assemblies. The question is whether I should add the spacer from the '09?
 

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You should be able to adjust the height with your new Penske. I’d set the ride height exactly as it was before. Measure the Penske compared to the old one and make it the same length, and reinstall the spacer. That way, you can tell the difference between the old shock and the new one. Once you dial in the clickers, then play around with the ride height adjustment. If you change the ride height now, it’s going to feel funny. Couple that with the new shock and it will feel double funny.


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Discussion Starter #43
As the Penske was set up at the factory for my weight and intended use on my '09, is it reasonable to think they would expect me to transfer that linkage over intact?
 

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If ur talking about the clevis that goes into the frame with the nut and cotter key on top, yes, you need that. You shouldn’t have had to remove that in the first place.


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^this RJ. You will reuse that Oem Clevis, and can adjust the height of the Penske if need be. I’m sure they set it up for you already, but it wouldn’t hurt to measure eye to eye on both shocks to be sure.


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Discussion Starter #47
If ur talking about the clevis that goes into the frame with the nut and cotter key on top, yes, you need that. You shouldn’t have had to remove that in the first place.


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Rear shock removal wasn't a routine operation for me, when I started down this path :BigGrin. Mea culpa.:O. I had a shop replace the rear shock on my '05 FZ6, almost 15 years ago.

Didn't know I could leave it in place.

I know I need the clevis, you've explained why I should keep that configuration OEM, at least for now. (Thank you)

My confusion inncreased, because the used later year shock was delivered with the clevis attached. Now, I have 3 shocks, 2 clevis, and one shim.
 

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Rear shock removal wasn't a routine operation for me, when I started down this path :BigGrin. Mea culpa.:O. I had a shop replace the rear shock on my '05 FZ6, almost 15 years ago.

Didn't know I could leave it in place.

I know I need the clevis, you've explained why I should keep that configuration OEM, at least for now. (Thank you)

My confusion inncreased, because the used later year shock was delivered with the clevis attached. Now, I have 3 shocks, 2 clevis, and one shim.
Use the one shim, but you may like 2 shims much better, especially if you run the wheelbase long as you should..........
 

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Discussion Starter #49
So far I've taken everything apart that needed to come off the bike, and have the new shock mounted to the clevis. The remote reservoir, I mounted to the passenger foot peg bracket so it won't interfere with the full range of motion of the swingarm. I may tweak that, after I get seat time.

Shout out on the advice about the linkage, and the effectiveness of Simple Green for cutting through 11 years of road muck. I'll share what photos I have when I'm done. My endurance is not good, for wrenching.... I can do maybe two hours before I have to take an extended break.

Wheel off, bike on jack stands.... Break.

Exhaust off, dog bones off, shock removed, pivot (finally!) removed.... Break.

Cleaning the munge off everything.... Break

The furthest back bolt, that mounts the shock bottom to the pivot the through bolt rusted to the inner bearing race. Scraped the rust off the bolt and greased everything. Bolts, inner races, needle bearings and built the pivot back up. Dust seals, etc. in place and I couldn't remember what orientation the link needed to be in. Break.

Today, will see me complete this. I took the time last night to review the shop manual, and have it clear in my mind what needs to go where. Four bolts remain to complete the rear suspension.

Two clamps, one bolt for the exhaust. Sundry fasteners to mount the lower fairings, and re-mounting the rear wheel/final drive.

That will be spread over the entire day......
 

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Discussion Starter #51
...... I just spent an hour taking out the lower dogbone bolt and flipping it around to the way it was when, I took it out. The thinner bolt head is the only thing that allows the exhaust to mate to the header. The nut, and excess bolt shaft interfered so hard I could not mount the resonance chamber. From here out, should be easy sailing. Nothing I haven't already done half a dozen times or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
What spring rate lb did you get?
Almost a funny story there..... I went with whatever Penske decided I needed, for a 200 lb street rider. :O

Knowing that someone would ask, I took pictures of the spring while I still had the shock laying in that cardboard box later in the evening after the first photos -- at least I know I tried to before I carted the whole thing off to the garage to install.

Snapped at least four photos, all in macro at various angles to the print on the spring, so I would have a record.:nerd

I also thought I was taking photos of the link and dog bones, before I cleaned them.:dozingoff:

Took around a half dozen of the dirt removal process, before I caught the 'no memory card installed' flashing in the view finder.:crying

No photos of the spring. None of the grime that was on the 'bones..... they were flat black; couldn't tell what sides the marks were on. Same deal with the pivot.:laugh
 

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Good opportunity to ditch the resonance chamber and install a link pipe! One of the first things I did when converting the bike to track duty so you can actually service the shock!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Feel free to txt or call, I could swing out there after work this week to help get it back together

Thanks for the offer, Jim. I managed it yesterday late in the afternoon. Took a nice long soaking bath to start working out the kinks, LOL. But it's done.

Now, I just need the weather to hold off long enough for me to get in a test ride before I commit to commuting again. Once I got everything back together, I went ahead and serviced the chain again.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Good opportunity to ditch the resonance chamber and install a link pipe! One of the first things I did when converting the bike to track duty so you can actually service the shock!
I have had run ins with the local LEOs, specifically due to noise. They haven't bothered me since I installed the complete OEM exhaust, after the header straight to the M4 GP that was on there when I bought the bike.

I would give serious thought to doing a link pipe, if it doesn't increase the noise appreciably. As it stands, quiet is far more important to me, than ease of maintenance. I won't be futzing with it very much once it's set up as I want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I will almost certainly eventually change the angle of the remote reservoir to reduce the angle on the line going to it from the shock.

I need to replace the left side passenger peg bracket with something to hold the clamps. I am considering whether a piece of flat stock bent to provide a slot between the bolt holes would work, or if I can simply use longer bolts, and a couple of washers to 'stand off' the bracket far enough from the subframe to slip the straps through the gap that would open up between the bracket portion between the bolt holes.... or replace the bracket with a tie down bracket and tie off the reservoir to that....
 

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I will almost certainly eventually change the angle of the remote reservoir to reduce the angle on the line going to it from the shock.



I need to replace the left side passenger peg bracket with something to hold the clamps. I am considering whether a piece of flat stock bent to provide a slot between the bolt holes would work, or if I can simply use longer bolts, and a couple of washers to 'stand off' the bracket far enough from the subframe to slip the straps through the gap that would open up between the bracket portion between the bolt holes.... or replace the bracket with a tie down bracket and tie off the reservoir to that....


Is the line long enough to reach the muffler hanger bolt on the opposite side? I’ve seen them mounted there before.


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