So the Penske needs to have the the top linkage (clevis?) added from one of my other shock assemblies. The question is whether I should add the spacer from the '09?
Rear shock removal wasn't a routine operation for me, when I started down this path :BigGrin. Mea culpa.:O. I had a shop replace the rear shock on my '05 FZ6, almost 15 years ago.If ur talking about the clevis that goes into the frame with the nut and cotter key on top, yes, you need that. You shouldn’t have had to remove that in the first place.
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Use the one shim, but you may like 2 shims much better, especially if you run the wheelbase long as you should..........Rear shock removal wasn't a routine operation for me, when I started down this path :BigGrin. Mea culpa.:O. I had a shop replace the rear shock on my '05 FZ6, almost 15 years ago.
Didn't know I could leave it in place.
I know I need the clevis, you've explained why I should keep that configuration OEM, at least for now. (Thank you)
My confusion inncreased, because the used later year shock was delivered with the clevis attached. Now, I have 3 shocks, 2 clevis, and one shim.
Almost a funny story there..... I went with whatever Penske decided I needed, for a 200 lb street rider. :OWhat spring rate lb did you get?
Feel free to txt or call, I could swing out there after work this week to help get it back together
I have had run ins with the local LEOs, specifically due to noise. They haven't bothered me since I installed the complete OEM exhaust, after the header straight to the M4 GP that was on there when I bought the bike.Good opportunity to ditch the resonance chamber and install a link pipe! One of the first things I did when converting the bike to track duty so you can actually service the shock!
I will almost certainly eventually change the angle of the remote reservoir to reduce the angle on the line going to it from the shock.
I need to replace the left side passenger peg bracket with something to hold the clamps. I am considering whether a piece of flat stock bent to provide a slot between the bolt holes would work, or if I can simply use longer bolts, and a couple of washers to 'stand off' the bracket far enough from the subframe to slip the straps through the gap that would open up between the bracket portion between the bolt holes.... or replace the bracket with a tie down bracket and tie off the reservoir to that....